UNITED STATES OF AMEEICA, VOL. III. OLIVER & BO YD, EDINBURGH. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA; THEIR HISTORY FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD THEIR INDUSTRY, COMMERCE, BANKING TRANSACTIONS, AND NATIONAL WORKS ; THEIR INSTITUTIONS AND CHARACTER, POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND LITERARY ; A SURVEY OF THE TERRITORY, AND REMARKS ON THE PROSPECTS AND PLANS OF EMIGRANTS. BY HUGH MURRAY, F.R.S.E. M WITH ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE NATURAL HISTORY, BY JAMES NICOL. PORTRAITS AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS BY JACKSON. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. III. EDINBURGH : OLIVER & BO YD, TWEEDDALE COURT; AND SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., LONDON. MDCCCXLIV. Printed by Oliver & Hoyd, Tweeddale Court, High Street, Edinburgh CONTENTS OF YOL, III, CHAPTER I. MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. Difficulty of the Subject— Effects of colonial Settlement- Variations in different States— Virginia— The West— New England— Religious Spirit— Philanthropy— Domestic good Conduct — Industry — Political Violence — Timidity in ex pressing Opinion — Eagerness after Wealth — Rash Specu lations—Laxity of Principle — The Yankee Pedlar — Pugnacious Disposition — National Vanity — Curiosity — Good Temper — Strong Liquors — Temperance Societies — Assumption of Equality— Attention to Ladies— Their Ap pearance and Character — Entertainments — Minor Defects in Manners and Accommodation — Inns — Dishes and Cookery —Differences throughout the Union— The New Englanders —Southern Planters— Emigrants to the North-west— The South-west— Society of Washington — Probable Improve ment, Page 9 CHAPTER II. SLAVES AND SLAVERY. State and Extent of Slavery in the United States— Treatment of the Negroes — How supplied with Food — Enactments against their Instruction — Means of Religious Knowledge — Internal Trade— Breeding of Slaves— Sales by Auction- Mode of Conveyance— Treatment in the New States— Clan destine Importation— Situation of the Free Coloured Race- Early Abolition Measures— Unsuccessful — Colonization So ciety—Anti-Slavery Society— Their Measures— Proceedings of the Anti- Abolitionists— Seconded by the Northern Mer chants — By the Legislature — Present State of Parties — Measures for Colonization— Their Tendency— Prospects of the Cause, 52 CHAPTER III. RELIGION IN THE UNITED STATES. Early Religious State— Effects of the Revolution— Adoption of the Voluntary System — Respect for Religion — In New M311875 6 CONTENTS. England— In the South— Deficiency in the West— Sects- Methodists — Baptists— Presbyterians — Congregationalists — Episcopalians— Roman Catholics— Quakers— Unitarians, &c. —Shakers— Rappites— Mormonites— Societies— Bible— Mis sionary— Home— Sabbath School— Revivals and Camp-Meet ings— General Result, Page 78' CHAPTER IV. THE LITERATURE OF AMERICA. Obstacles to Literature in America — Political Circumstances —Want of Remuneration— State before the Revolution- Decline— Gradual Revival and Progress— Branches— Ora tory— Otis — Henry— Fisher Ames — Everett —Webster- Clay— Poetry— General Taste for it— Mode of Production- Bryant — Percival — Dana — Sprague — Halleck — Braiuard — Pierpont— Willis— Wilcox— Longfellow— Neal — Doane — Peabody— Prentice —Sands — Drake — Hillhouse — Lunt — Clason— Whittier— Hoffman — Street — Gallagher — Pike— Pinkney — Simms — Female Poets — Sigourney — Brooks — Hall — Welby— Gould— Lucretia and Margaret Davidson —Various Others— Romances and Novels— Brown— Cooper — Sedgwick, &c. — Essay -writing— Irving — Channing — His tory—Bancroft— Prescott — Historical Biography— Collec tions of Documents— Travellers — Lewis — Clarke — School- craft — Robinson — Stephens — Catlin, &c. — Statistics, 98 CHAPTER V. GEOLOGY — BOTANY — ZOOLOGY. SECTION i. GEOLOGY.— Natural Divisions— Alleghany Moun tains — Lines of Elevation and Depression— Primary Rocks — Gold — Transition Rocks — Cliff Limestone — Lead-mines — Salt-springs— Rock-salt— Old Red Sandstone — Mountain Limestone — Iron- mines — Coal Formation — Anthracite — BituminousCoal — Richmond Coal-field— New Red Sandstone — Ornithichnites — Oolite — Chalk Formation — Tertiary De posits—Drift—Polished Rocks — Alluvium — Infusoria— Ex tinct Mammalia — Review of Changes. SECTION n. BOTANY. — BotanicalRegions — Natural Families — Ranunculacese — May Apple — Papaveracese — Magnolias — Aniseed-tree — Umbel- liferae— Ginseng — Vines — Pitcher-plants — Tree-primrose — Witch Hazel — Dogwood— Cactaceae — Cruciferse — Violets — Passion-flowers — Loblolly Bay — Maples — Buck's Eye — Lime-trees — Euphorbiacere — Roses — Leguminous Plants — CONTENTS. 7 Locust-tree — Sumach — Hornbeam — Beech — Chesnut — Oak —Birch — Mulberry— Elm— Walnut— Hickory —Willow- Plane-tree— Sweet Gum— Laurel — Andromeda — Azalea — Holly— Composite — Golden Rod — Labiatse — Solanaceae — Ash — Pines —Cabbage-tree — Liliacese — Grasses — Conclu sion. SECTION in. ZOOLOGY.— Birds — Vulture — Bald Eagle — Bird of Washington— Osprey— Buzzards— Hawks— Screech- owl —Virginian Owl — Chuck-Will's-Widow — Whip-poor - Will— Night Hawk— Chimney-swallow— Purple Martin — Humming-bird — Nuthatch — Wrens — Thrushes — Mocking bird— Fly-catcher — King Bird — Blue Jay— Crow — Raven — Grakle — Oriole — Rice-birds — Indigo-bird — Nonpareil — Carolina Parrot — Woodpecker — Cuckoo — Passenger Pigeon —Turtle-dove— Turkey— Quail— Ruffed Grouse — Crane- Heron — Ibis — Snipe — Woodcock — Rail — Canada Goose — Widgeon— Wood-duck— Snake-bird— Gulls— Petrels — Dol- chick. Reptiles — Tortoises — Cayman — Rattlesnakes — Frogs — Salamander. Fishes — Perch — Weakfish — Drums — Sheep's Head — Mackerel — Mullet — Carp — Pike — Flying- fish — Salmon — Smelt — Herring — Sturgeon — Amblyop- sis, Page 201 CHAPTER VI. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. Plan of this Survey — General Divisions : — I . The New Eng land States — Massachusetts — Connecticut — Rhode Island — New Hampshire — Vermont — Maine — Boundaries — Extent — Seacoast— Surface — Mountains — Rivers — Industry — Pro ductions, &c.— Return of chief Articles of Produce by the Census of 1840— Population of Cities and Towns in 1840— Description of Boston, Lowell, Providence, and other Places. II. Middle States — New York — Pennsylvania — New Jersey —Boundaries— Extent, &c.— Returns by Census of 1840— Description of New York, Philadelphia, &c. III. Virginia — Maryland — Columbia— Delaware — Boundaries — Extent, &c.— Returns by Census of 1840— Description of Washing ton, Baltimore, Richmond, &c. IV. The Carolinas— Georgia — Alabama— Florida— Boundaries— Extent, &c. — Returns by Census of 1840— Description of Charleston, Savannah, Mo bile, &c — North-western States— Ohio — Indiana — Illinois — Michigan, &c. — Boundaries — Extent, &c. — Returns by Census of 1840— Description of Cincinnati, Detroit, &c. — South-western States — Kentucky — Tennessee — Mississippi — Louisiana — Missouri — Arkansas, &c.— Boundaries — Ex- CONTENTS. tent, &c. — Returns by Census of 1840— Description of New Orleans, Louisville, Lexington, St Louis, &c.,........Page 283 CHAPTER VII. EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. General Remarks— Early Western Settlements— Boone— Hen derson— Obstacles during the War — Acquisition of Ohio — Early Sales of Land — New Plan in 1804 — Embarrassments under it — Change in 1820 — Amount since sold — Purchases on Speculation — Impositions practised— Squatters— Settle ment on improved Farms — Comparison of different States — Sales in each— Advantages of improved Districts— British America and the States— Timbered Land and Prairie — Modes of Conveyance Westward — By Waggon — By Canals and Railways — Employment for Operatives — Wages in dif ferent Trades, 330 CHAPTER VIII. CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. Object proposed — State of America after the War — Transac tions with the Barbary States— Election of Monroe — State of Parties under him — Disputes with Spain — Cession of Florida— Question of Slavery in Missouri — South American Republics acknowledged— Tariff of 1824— Presidency of Quincy Adams— Tariff of 1828— Presidency of Jackson —His Policy — Veto on a National Bank — North- West Indian War — Carolina resists the Tariff— Compromise — Jackson re-elected — Measures against the Bank — Plan for Removal of the Indians — Seminole War — Treaty with France — Finances — State of Parties — Van Buren President — Great Financial Embarrassment— Civil War in Canada— Disturb ances on the Frontier— Boundary Dispute— Election of Har rison—His Death— Tyler President— His Measures— Offends the Whig Party— Arrest of Macleod— His Acquittal— Dis turbances in Rhode Island — State of Parties— Repudiation by the States— Finances— Oregon Question, 346 APPENDIX, 367 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER I. Manners and Social Life in America. Difficulty of the Subject— Effects of colonial Settlement- Variations in different States— Virginia— The West— New England — Religious Spirit — Philanthropy — Domestic good Conduct — Industry — Political Violence — Timidity in ex pressing Opinion — Eagerness after Wealth — Rash Specu lations — Laxity of Principle — The Yankee Pedlar — Pugnacious Disposition — National Vanity — Curiosity — Good Temper — Strong Liquors — Temperance Societies — Assumption of Equality — Attention to Ladies — Their Ap pearance and Character — Entertainments — Minor Defects in Manners and Accommodation — Inns — Dishes and Cookery — Differences throughout the Union — The New Englanders — Southern Planters— Emigrants to the North-west — The South-west — Society of Washington — Probable Improve ment. THE treatment of this subject is perhaps the most deli cate and difficult task which presents itself in the whole circle of the present work. The very objects possess a vagueness which renders them indistinctly perceptible by a common observer, and are easily distorted by the mists of prepossession and passion, through which, in too many instances, they have been viewed. The VOL. III. A. 10 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. Americans consider themselves as heavily aggrieved by the representations generally circulated in Europe upon the matters in question ; and though feverishly sensi tive in this respect, their complaints are probably not without some foundation. We apprehend, however, that there is not much of actual misstatement on either side, and that by making due allowance for the colour ing of prejudice and political feeling, a somewhat near approach may be made to the truth. The colonists to North America were placed under peculiar circumstances, necessarily creating a state of society that materially differed from that of the mother- country. The Greek colonies, which spread civilisa tion so wide around the Mediterranean, had been com posed of large bodies of the nation, led usually by princes, and including some of the most distinguished citizens. Hence they soon rose to greatness and refine ment, and in many cases left the parent-state behind them. The English settlers, on the contrary, were composed mostly of the middle and labouring classes, seeking to escape the pressure of poverty, or to attain religious freedom ; and even those habits of elegance, which a certain number carried with them, could be with difficulty maintained. No easy or ready mode for acquiring wealth was open to them. They had to begin by subduing a vast wilderness, covered with dense forests, and to maintain a severe struggle against wild animals and wilder men. Amid these hard necessities, obliged to live in a great measure apart, they had little opportunity or means of displaying riches or accom plishments. If the original settlers succeeded in pre serving some portion of refinement, their posterity almost inevitably sunk to the level of their position. Still the labouring class, earning ample wages, and having often landed property of their own, attained a degree of com fort, independence, and even intelligence, superior to that enjoyed at home by their countrymen of the same class. A people, however, which has branched off from another in an advanced state of society, is differently MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 1 1 situated from one originally rude. The latter has maxims, institutions, and usages all tending to fix it in its actual position ; while there is not likely to be any foreign intercourse so intimate as to effect more than a very gradual change. But the colonist is connected, and holds regular communication with a more improved society, on the model of which his belief, his opinions, and external habits are formed. He looks to this as the standard upon which, when circumstances admit, he will seek to form himself. These influences had, before the separation, produced a very sensible effect. The merchants of Boston, and the planters of Virginia, equalled probably in intelligence, and even in elegance of manners, any British class out of the immediate circle of the court and universities. But when the revolution severed the connexion be tween them and Britain, and led them to view her with feelings of jealousy and hostility, this progress was interrupted ; and the consequences appear to have been unfavourable to their intellectual and social pro gress. The men of the revolution were not succeeded by others of equal ability ; even their own writers have remarked a decline in the standard of manners. The opulent classes, however, still look to Europe as the source of elegance and refinement, but as it were covertly, and not without exciting jealous feelings among the republican party. They have also taken a wider range than their predecessors, and some have adopted France as the more refined model ; though the imitation is not always successful, and is attended with certain serious disadvantages. Extensive variations are also observable within the now wide circle of the Union. Virginia and the other southern states were originally planted on a more aris tocratic basis, and by the use of slaves their gentry are enabled to hold extensive possessions, and to live nearly in the style of European landed proprietors. From this difference of position arise marked peculiari ties, which we shall afterwards endeavour to delineate. 12 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. Since the beginning of the century, a new circle has been formed in the western states, whose social position is not only different, but in some respects contrasted with that of the older settlements. They are, in fact, colonies from them as they were from Britain, and exhibit results extremely similar. The emigrants, be longing in a still greater proportion to the labouring class, were likely to form, as they have actually done, a still ruder society. Intimately connected, however, as they still are with the more improved districts, they will doubtless make them their model in the career of civilisation, and gradually adopt their spirit. This process indeed is, to a great extent, observable in the older settled states. M. Chevalier considers New Eng land, from being so great a source of emigration, as likely to absorb into herself all the new divisions of the Union. He does not consider that, so far as they extend south of the Ohio, they have been drawn from Virginia and the neighbouring states ; and that, while the cool and methodical Yankee spirit has been greatly diluted by transportation, the bolder temper of the south has been augmented ; so that the prevailing character on the whole range from Kentucky to Alabama may be represented as ultra Virginian. The north-eastern states, however, comprising those of New England, New York, and Pennsylvania, form what is now generally considered the main body of Ame rica. Their inhabitants, by extraordinary industry and activity, and by freedom from the evils of slavery, have gained a great ascendency over the rest. Almost all commercial concerns are in their hands ; and upon their model chiefly the western states, as they rise in civilisation, will seek to form themselves. We shall, therefore, in the delineation now to be attempted, keep them mainly in view, seeking afterwards to trace those differences which distinguish the others.* * The authorities chiefly employed in this delineation are Hamilton's Men and Manners in America, 2 vols ; Stuart's Three Years in America, 2 vols ; Hall's (Basil) Travels, MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 13 In surveying the American character, we may with pleasure recognise, at its very foundation, qualities truly estimable. They are, especially within the boundaries above stated, decidedly a religious people; this pro fession seems to be made in a manner somewhat more marked than among any European nation. They sup port, without any aid from the state, an establishment of teachers adequate to the wants of the population, and attend regularly to devotional ordinances and minis trations. Associations for the diffusion of religious knowledge in foreign countries, and in the destitute parts of their own, are supported with great attention and liberal expenditure. This subject is more fully developed in a chapter treating expressly of the reli gious state of the Union. A kindred virtue, borrowed also from Britain, to which the Americans may advance a just claim, is that of active philanthropy. In no country are more systematic exertions made to relieve the evils under which hu manity suffers. Extensive institutions are supported by liberal donations of money, and by a large portion of that time which is otherwise very fully employed. In com municating relief, and at the same time guarding against abuse, particular discretion and good sense are displayed. Attention has been much directed to mitigating the severity of criminal justice, and at the same time making it contribute to the reformation of the offender. We may add, that the purity of domestic life is better preserved than even in Britain, which is here happily superior to perhaps any of the other great countries of Europe. The seduction either of married or unmarried females very rarely occurs ; nor does the reproach rest only, as elsewhere, upon one and often the injured sex. 3 vols ; Mrs Trollope's Domestic Manners of the Americans, 2 vols ; Buckingham's Travels, 3 vols ; Combe's Travels, 3 vols ; Grund's Americans, 2 vols ; Aristocracy in America, 2 vols ; Sedgwick's Home, &c. ; Mrs Clavers' New Home and Forest Life ; Flint (Timothy) on the Western States ; Chan- ning on the Labouring Classes, &e. 14 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. The seducer loses caste almost equally, and in a country where public opinion greatly decides a man's fortune, is severely visited by its consequences. Such a reproach forms a bar to his advancement in all the paths of official or professional life. Even in the great cities, though the usual scenes of vice more or less occur, they are covered at least by a veil of decorum. It is impossible, moreover, to deny to the Americana the full praise of " Rough industry, activity untired, With glowing life informed, and all awake." The mother-country, indeed, had within the last cen tury set an example which the world had hitherto seen nothing to equal. This her offspring, however, has fairly surpassed her, in the rapidity with which she has subdued a vast wilderness, created new nations, and opened intercourse between the most distant regions. Here indeed, as in other pursuits of industry, the pro motion of personal interest must be the prominent motive. We are, however, convinced with Miss Mar- tineau, that some higher impulses are combined ; the improvement of the country, the formation of extensive influence and connexions, the giving employment to numerous individuals. Upon this subject, however, we need not dwell, since its results have been so largely exhibited in a former part of the work. Having viewed the American character in so many favourable lights, we are obliged to notice some others of a rather opposite aspect, partly connected with their good qualities, partly, it should seem, very inconsistent with them. The free constitution of their government, the share which even the humblest citizens enjoy in its administration, are their greatest boast ; and they exult particularly in the vast and indeed unexampled extent of country over which it has been diffused without leading to the anarchy usually predicted in such cases. We have fully admitted, that with some few exceptions this government really has performed its grand object of securing person and property, and at the same time MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 15 leaving full scope for individual exertion and enterprise. Nor are we inclined to doubt that, in a great ma jority of instances, votes are given with a full honesty of purpose. Yet it is certain, and is admitted by their best writers, that the spirit and temper with which political discussion is carried on has no tendency to re fine or elevate the character. We cannot say that it has much even in Europe ; but America is allowed to carry to excess all the faults to which this pursuit is liable ; — the furious vituperation and personal attacks upon adversaries ; the gross deceptions circulated and believed ; the servile devotion or blind enmity to a political leader. The newspapers are in an extraordinary degree stamped with these faults ; and as they write for purposes of profit, must find them acceptable to their readers ; indeed, none written in a higher tone are said to succeed. It is, however, so inconsistent with the reigning profession of piety, that many who peculiarly devote themselves to religion withdraw altogether from political concerns. Dr Channing argues that they are to blame, and ought to take a proper share in these, carrying and seeking to introduce into them a more suitable spirit and temper. The two elements appear sometimes mixed, but in a manner which we cannot but feel particularly offensive. Mr Combe quotes the following passage : " The locofocos are triumphant at every point, laughing at every corner of their infernal mouths. The devil knowing what they had been about, began to rejoice, and let out one of the prettiest north-eastern rain-storms ; but what cared the locofocos for getting wet. When they get to their comfortable quarters in another region hereafter, they will have time to dry, &c." (we decline copying more). There is a fault of another and seemingly very op posite nature, which is strongly urged against the people ; this is timidity in the expression of opinion. De Tocqueville represents the minority as not only yielding to the power of the majority, but shrinking from the manifestation of any opposite feelings. Miss ] 6 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. Martineau describes the nation as enjoying less liberty of speech and action than others whom they despise as in a state of servitude. She laments in particular the mental thraldom in which her own sex appeared to be held. Mr Buckingham quotes a New York reviewer, denounc ing public opinion as a greater tyrant in the States than any where else, and the majority of the people as abject slaves. Dr Dewey complains of a general moral cowar dice and pusillanimity. " I think," says he, " I see some thing of this in our very manners, — in the hesitation, indirectness, the cautious and circuitous modes of speech, the eye asking assent before the tongue can finish the sentence. I think that in other countries you oftener meet with men who stand manfully up, and deliver their opinion without asking or caring what you or others think about it." Many, he says, will see others suffering reprobation for opinions which they themselves hold, without having the courage or manliness to say : " I think so too." From these testimonies there seems no doubt that the disposition complained of exists to a considerable extent. It appears to arise from the extensive de pendence upon public opinion, the numerous offices and functions in townships, counties, state and general legis latures, the election for all which rests with the people. Yet we cannot help thinking that it has been greatly exaggerated, and opposes no such bar as has been some times represented to the progress and fluctuations of public opinion. It has already been observed, in respect to the general political movement of the country, that the highest ascendency of the majority has never pre vented its being opposed by a minority with even ex cessive violence. The people are divided among a great variety of religious sects, some very small, yet main tained obstinately against general contempt or oppro brium. It is only required that they shall include a belief in Christianity ; but this allows a very wide range. It is observed, indeed, that individuals protect themselves by being aggregated to some respected and MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 17 established body ; yet there is no power keeping even these in a permanent condition. We shall see that in many of these sects extensive schisms have recently arisen. The temperance and anti-slavery movements are altogether new, and beginning on a small scale, have spread widely in the face of the most determined hostility and ridicule. These innovations have originated with individuals, whose names even many of them bear. They do not seem indeed to have rested content with the colloquial or even written expression of their senti ments, but to have studiously sought to diffuse them by means of associations. The various modes of forming these, comprised under the term agitation, seem to have originated in America. This mode of extending opinions is animated and agreeable, developing many social ties and attachments ; yet it is apt to be carried on with excessive and sectarian zeal, and with the same vehe mence of action and language which distinguishes poli tical conflict. The associate is not open to reasoning like the individual thinker ; he has a rooted opinion, and employs his powers of thought only in seeking arguments and motives, which may be vehemently urged in its support. Thus, however, full scope is found for change and progress, and there is no risk of that mental stagna tion which some represent as arising from the dread of singularity, and the awe of public opinion. We suspect even that there is a feverish craving for such movements. The North American Review, in referring to one, de scribes it as " the newest form of agitation/' seeming to intimate that these arise in continued succession. The next class of faults belongs to one of their merits, only carried to excess, and in some cases perverted. They do not, according to Mr Combe, know the art of getting rich leisurely. A restlessness, a striving and driving onward, mark all their movements. The whole of society seems in a state of preternatural activity. Ac cording to their advocate, Mr Grand, " business is their pleasure, their soul, pursued not as means of securing necessaries and comforts, but as the grand fountain of 18 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. human felicity. The merchant is engaged as it were in a crusade after wealth. From the earliest hour in the morning, he is a perpetual mobile ; in the house, on change, wherever he goes, the hum and bustle of busi ness attends him. He never thinks of retiring or seek ing the enjoyment of leisure, and would despise any one that should do so." The writer considers this incessant occupation as preserving the purity of morals, leaving no time nor thought for dissipation. Yet while welcom ing this result, we could wish to see evil driven out by good, rather than one evil by another. To compass these aims, they study to move with an almost preter natural activity, travelling only in the business style among multitudes in the steam-ship or railway, and con sidering even this as too tardy. Their meals are scarcely eaten, but bolted down ; Miss Sedgwick observing with censure, that it is generally considered unbusiness-like to spend above ten minutes at dinner. Their motions are precipitated with the effort not to lose a moment. At church or other assembly, the instant that the speaker's voice ceases, the whole congregation start and rush out, as if vying with each other which should be foremost, and without regard to the risk of mutual col lision. Mr Bryant even assures us, that the fair leaders of fashion at New York, in gaily promenading the Broad way, exert the same preternatural swiftness : — " Soft voices and light laughter wake the street, Like notes of wood-birds, and where'er the eye Threads the long way, plumes wave, and twinkling feet Fall light, as hastes that crowd of beauty by ; The ostrich hurrying o'er the desert space, Scarce bore those tossing plumes with fleeter pace." Another evil of this intense pursuit of wealth, is its tendency to overshoot the mark, and instead of raising to prosperity, to plunge into ruin. The mischiefs of extra vagant speculation are sufficiently felt in this country ; but in America still more extensively. Dr D wight acknowledges that even the sober citizen of Boston is too apt to rush into perilous and daring enterprises. The MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 19 youth, according to Mr Buckingham, instead of await ing the slow results of industry, looks eagerly round for some rapid road to wealth, some mode of dashing into a fortune ; and if the faintest prospect of this appears, nothing short of impossibility will deter him. The people, M. Chevalier says, delight to feel themselves moving on a vast sea of speculation, — now on the top of the wave, — now sunk deep beneath. Speculation be comes thus a species of gambling, rather shuffling pro perty from hand to hand than producing it. We cannot but think it a happier state to earn by steady industry a moderate income, than to be thus grasping at immense profits, amid perils of ruin. From this cause, too, bank ruptcies are more frequent, and considered less discredit able than in any other country ; in many cases they occur repeatedly in the same individual. Mr Combe quotes a statement, probably overrated, that in New York only one in twelve became rich ; the other eleven insolvent. Of course, the situation of the mercantile world generally is thus rendered precarious ; and the public suffers in the failure of reckless and extravagant undertakings. We have had before occasion to observe, that public improvements, even of the most laudable nature, are undertaken on a scale beyond what present circumstances can justify or remunerate. There is a still deeper reproach, which those who make extreme haste to be rich can with difficulty escape. General charges against a people should be advanced with great caution, and if in a sweep ing form, are usually unjust. Yet there appears a strong concurrence as to the existence of a somewhat lower standard of mercantile integrity than in Europe, or at least in Britain and Germany. Mr Hamilton charges the Yankee not only with the entire prostration of all his powers, bodily and mental, at the shrine of Mammon, but with a promptitude, wherever he can, to overreach and deceive. Success in these arts is said to become a subject of boast ; and the man detected in practising them is rather mortified by the exposure of his 20 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. want of skill, than humbled by conscious misconduct. This writer asserts, that at a public table attended by about a hundred persons who were perpetually shift ing, he habitually heard applause bestowed on conduct which in England would have involved a total loss of character. Mrs Trollope characterizes them as sly, sel fish, and grinding, and also complains that actions which went at least to the extreme verge of morality were mentioned without disapprobation, and even with ap plause. Very decided advocates of America, as Mr Stuart and Mr Grund, have avoided any mention of this charge. Mr Shirreff, who notices it as prevalent, merely replies tauntingly, that the danger of being overreached would be equal in Canada ; but this is not a denial with respect to the other party. Mr Bucking ham seems to view the subject candidly, when he denies the charge as general, even in regard to the great number who become insolvent, yet admits that there are many against whom the accusation would justly apply. Mr Combe mentions a number whose lives were one con tinued course of swindling and bankruptcy. This accords with what has been stated to us by respectable Ameri cans, who, while defending in general the honourable character of their countrymen, owned that there were a certain number who kept afloat in society after they had lost every vestige of character. Mr Buckingham conceives, on the whole, that pecuniary laxity is visited here with greater lenity and indulgence than in England. He quotes the statement of Dr Dcwey, an eminent clergy man in New York, of certain frauds as entering into the regular course of business ; as that of enclosing in the heart of a bunch of quills a portion inferior to the rest. Such practices, it appears, are even defended as matters of course, and expected by the purchaser, — an inade quate plea, usually advanced for any trick which be comes general. We are not aware that any tradesman of the slightest respectability in London, or even Paris, would be guilty of them. There is one character which seems given up on all MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 21 hands, — that of the Yankee pedlar. This race is repre sented by Mr Hamilton as moving annually through out the Union, with the express determination to lie, cheat, cozen, and hi any way become possessed of the property of others. The charge may be considered as admitted by the nation, since Mr Hill, their favourite comic performer, represents so humorously, and evi dently from the life, the dexterous and enormous frauds habitual to this personage. Their own poet, Halleck, also describes them as, — " Apostates who are meddling With merchandise, pounds, shillings, pence, and peddling, Or wandering through the southern countries teaching The A B C from Webster's spelling-book ; Gallant and godly, making love and preaching, And gaining by what they call ' hook and crook,' And what the moralists call overreaching, A decent living. The Virginians look Upon them with as favourable eyes, As Gabriel did the devil in paradise." The genus, which in Britain is now nearly extinct, never bore there a very high reputation ; yet they did not seemingly rank so very low. These form, however, a distinct and quite inferior class to that of the great merchants in the commercial cities. It is indeed ob served, that while there is so much general respecta bility among American citizens, the unprincipled pre sent a more unblushing front than elsewhere. Expe riencing less restraint from law, and almost none from police, they take advantage of the general prevalence of a daring and independent spirit. New York has been described as the paradise of rogues, the general receptacle for all those both of Europe and America ; where the character is developed in all its might and malignity. Those personages, displaying themselves prominently on the surface, attract more notice than the quiet and orderly class of citizens. It is indeed implied in the statement, that Europe furnishes a considerable propor tion ; and we really see numerous instances in which those who have lost their place in society at home, seek 22 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. an asylum in this land of liberty. It may be farther remarked, that this profligate population is mostly con fined to the great maritime cities, and that the agri cultural occupants, who form the great body of the society, preserve in general a dignified and honourable simplicity. We may perhaps assent to the panegyric pronounced by Halleck, in contrast with his character of the peddling order : — " View them near At home, where all their worth and pride are placed ; And there their hospitable fires burn clear, And there the lowliest farm-house hearth is graced With manly hearts, in piety sincere, Faithful in love, in honour stern and chaste ; In friendship warm and true, in danger brave, Beloved in life, and sainted in the grave." It has been at the same time observed that, while wealth is pursued thus devotedly, and by almost every means good and bad, there is no disposition to a sordid economy. The people indulge, as their circumstances ad mit, in the conveniences and comforts of life, and practise, as we have seen, a liberal generosity, especially towards public objects. Many even squander their fortunes in an extravagant and ostentatious manner ; and the habits of life among the wealthy inhabitants are generally too expensive. Mr Hamilton indeed represents an inor dinate importance as attached to the possessors of wealth, so that he was offered as a high honour to be introduced to a gentleman who had made 100,000 dollars by tallow, and told that one worth half a-million had desired to meet with him. Indeed, this pride in the possession of wealth is probably a motive for its ostentatious display. Although they never cease to aim at its increase, this is not sought by saving or hoarding, but by em barking their funds in fresh enterprises, even at the hazard of losing the fortune already obtained. Another fault imputed to the Americans, and seem ingly not without reason, is a pugnacious disposition — a promptitude to engage in personal conflict. Even an advocate allows that of all people they are the readiest MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 23 to take and resent an insult. Those violent forms of it, as gouging or scooping out the eyes, biting off a member, or otherwise maiming an antagonist, which of old gave so barbarous an aspect to society, seem to be extinct. Neither the actions themselves, nor indivi duals suffering under their consequences, appear to have come under the view of recent travellers. Through a great part of the Union, however, the practice prevails of wearing knives fitted to inflict deadly wounds, which are occasionally drawn forth ; and fierce personal conflicts have disgraced the halls of the state assemblies, and even of congress. These individual outrages are now mostly confined to the western and particularly the south western territory. In the most improved eastern states, however, the same spirit is still displayed in the exercise of lynch-law, and violent mobs are raised even by the more respectable classes. On politics and other contro verted subjects, the war of words is waged with almost matchless fury. Duelling, a practice considered as ap propriate to the feudal system, and unknown in the ancient republics, might have been expected to find little favour. It prevails, however, to a greater extent than in Britain, and has proved fatal to some of the most distinguished citizens ; while it is carried on seem ingly in a spirit more sanguinary, and without the same anxiety on the part of the seconds to save the honour of their principals without the sacrifice of life. Another symptom of this disposition is the taste and passion for war \vhich pervades the nation. The exploits which distinguished the contest with Britain are celebrated with the utmost enthusiasm ; and an inordinate vene ration is attached to eminent military characters. It was mainly upon this ground that Generals Jackson and Harrison were raised to the presidency ; and General Scott was proposed lately by a numerous body for the next vacancy ; so that there seems a strong disposition to confer this highest dignity on the most eminent of their military men. During the late controversies witli Britain, the disposition among a great body, and per- 24 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. haps a majority of the people, to push matters to ex tremity, and even plunge their country into war, was sufficiently manifested, and with difficulty checked by the supreme government. These tendencies are the more remarkable, as appearing particularly inconsistent with feelings of republican jealousy, and also with the general decided profession of religion. Another reproach of a more venial nature is the ex tremely high estimate formed of themselves as a people, and the obtrusive manner in which it is often asserted. This is indeed shared in a great measure by the mother- country ; yet in passing the Atlantic, it has assumed a different phase. The genuine Briton, while he cherishes a profound conviction of the superiority of his country and nation, holds in contempt any con trary opinion entertained by others, and which, if re ported to him, only confirms his persuasion of their inferiority. But the American is by no means satisfied with his own inward consciousness ; he feels an eager and feverish anxiety that it should be shared by fo reigners ; and if disappointed, as he has too often been, gives way to vehement bursts of resentment. Cap tain Hall complains that, being known to intend pub lishing an account of America, he was assailed courte ously, yet earnestly and with little delicacy, on the subject. He was asked, " Don't you think this a won derful country I Don't you allow us great credit for what we are doing I Don't we resemble the old world much more than you expected ! Had you any idea of finding us so advanced ? Is not the great canal the finest work in the world ? Don't you admit we are be coming a great nation * What do you think of us on the whole I " It must be owned that several writers of eminence, from political feelings and habits of aristo cratic refinement, have taken peculiar delight in pre senting American peculiarities under a strong and ex aggerated light. The people have really expressed themselves satisfied with several who, as M. de Tocque- ville, have by no means bestowed unqualified praise. MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 25 It must be owned, too, that between each other, and in the intercourse of different classes, the language used is often far from complimentary. It is chiefly when placed in front of other nations, and particularly of their maternal one, that they become intolerant of critical remark. The American traveller in Europe, according to Mr Hamilton, considers himself an impersonation of the honour of the Union, and feels as if all the dignity of his country were concentrated in himself. Yet it does not appear as if he repelled foreign ideas, being accused by his countrymen of returning too deeply impregnated with them. Another fault, also venial, yet not a little trouble some and annoying, is prying curiosity into the con cerns of strangers. This propensity is indeed very generally observed among persons in remote and se questered situations. To the inhabitants of a great city, a man, considered in himself, is as it were nobody ; attention being almost confined to some leading public characters, or persons with whom they are connected by business or friendship. But in a retired situation, the arrival of a new-comer is an important event, which breaks the monotony of life, and excites a strong interest in every thing connected with him. The situation of the majority of the Americans originally was, and to a great extent still is, more recluse than that of any Eu ropean people ; and the habit thus formed appears to continue even.in situations where the advance of society has diminished the cause, while the spirit of freedom and equality removes any reserve in taking the most straightforward mode of gratifying the inclination. It might be supposed that in a country where every one is so intensely busied in his own affairs, there would be little leisure for searching so curiously into those of others. It appears, however, that time is found for both objects ; and Mr Hamilton satirically says, that every moment which can be spared from the one is devoted to the other. He describes it as impossible to baffle an American, who will track you through every VOL. III. B 26 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. evasion, detect all your doublings, or, if thrown out, hark back so skilfully on scent, that you are at length fairly hedged into a corner. Dr Franklin, to escape this annoyance, was accustomed, when he went into a country district, to have fastened to his breast a paper, on which was written his name, occupation, residence, and the business which brought him thither. Miss Sedgwick mentions as a well-known story that of a Dutchman who was here questioned to death. We in cline, however, to think that, among the higher classes who inhabit the cities, this peculiarity has in a great measure disappeared. Among those whom we have met in Europe, and who of course belonged to this class, it was not displayed in any prominent or offensive degree. It may seem not altogether to accord with some of the above statements to describe the Americans as perhaps the best-tempered people in the world. Yet Captain Hall declares he never saw one of them out of temper. Miss Martineau, confirming this observation, and con trasting it with the waywardness often displayed by the members of the Saxon race, considers it as a general sunshine diffused over the land. Symptoms of heat and irritation indeed occurred as elsewhere ; but they were kept under such control as not to be offensive. She inclines to impute it to that self-command which arises in a republic, where there is a pressure on all sides of the rights and claims of others, in a manner which can not be disregarded. It is strikingly displayed in acci dents and disappointments in travelling, or even more serious occasions, which scarcely excite the irritation else where so usual. This pacific disposition prevails particu larly in families, where the cause above stated is not in operation ; but Miss M. supposes it the result of the habit otherwise formed. Of course it ceases when the person comes to speak and act in public life, or when resent ment of wrong impels him to seek some serious revenge. Strangers complain of a coldness of manner both in society and in the services rendered at shops and hotels, yet own that in action the people are particularly MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 27 friendly and obliging. Even Mr Hamilton describes the union of republican plainness with cordiality as very pleasing. There is another moral quality, in respect to which America has presented varied and striking aspects. Twenty years ago the use of ardent spirits prevailed to a great excess, not indeed in a convivial manner, nor leading to turbulent intoxication, but in a more pernicious habit of frequent solitary indulgence. At the bar of every tavern a supply was provided, to which the guests from time to time resorted ; and a practice prevailed of taking a dram at successive periods of the day, beginning with the earliest. Although the disturbances caused by intoxication were thus avoided, yet the health was more seriously injured, and the mind kept in a state of constant confusion and irrita tion. The observation of these evils gave rise to that great and remarkable movement, which consisted in the formation of temperance societies ; the first of which was established at Boston in 1813, under the title of the " Massachusetts Society for the Suppression of Intem perance." The professed object was merely to check the " too free use" of ardent spirits ; and it made laudable exertions for this object, but on a very limited scale, till 1826, when a national association was formed, entitled the " American Temperance Society," having still its head quarters at Boston. All the usual modes of influencing the public mind were then most actively employed. Lectures were delivered in the principal towns ; reports, tracts, and newspapers were largely and gratuitously distributed. A numerous body of physicians were in duced to declare, that the use of ardent spirits by per sons in health was in every case superfluous, and often the cause of disease and death ; while resolutions condemn ing it in a moral view were issued by various ecclesias tical bodies. Captains of vessels were even prevailed upon to sail without spirits on board, and their insurances were in consequence somewhat lowered. Between 1831 and 28 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 1835, the number of societies rose from 3000 to 8000, the members from 300,000 to 1,500,000. At the latter period, it is stated that above 4000 distilleries had been stopped, and 8000 traders ceased to sell ardent spirits ; 1200 ves sels received none on board, and 12,000 drunkards had been reformed. A most extensive reduction has taken place in the quantity produced and imported. With out entering into any disputed question respecting the system, it seems impossible to deny, that this great self-denying movement could only arise from the purest motives, and is honourable to the national character. The Massachusetts legislature attempted to follow it up by an act that no innkeeper should sell less than fifteen gallons to one individual, unless for medical purposes. This attempt to pass the limits of legislation, and regu late manners by law, was unsound in principle, and particularly unsuited to a community where the feeling is BO strong in favour of liberty. A violent ferment arose in Boston ; the publicans refused to obey, and were supported by the people ; the contest was waged with the usual violence, and divided into cross sections the two leading political parties. The democrats, how ever, were most generally hostile to it, and being seconded by public opinion, procured its abolition, and gained additional strength to themselves. The original system of the temperance advocates was limited to the proscription of spirits, leaving untouched the use of fermented liquors, which had not been the subject of the same abuse. There soon, however, arose a section which, under the well-known slang title of tee-totallers, proscribed the latter also ; and amid their first zeal, it is said the contents of some wine cellars were emptied into the streets. This party, so far as we understand, is now completely in the ascendant. The Marlborough, stated as the second hotel in Boston, and making up from one to two hundred beds, sells no species of intoxicating liquid ; and the same is the case with others in New England. A step still more in MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 29 advance has even been partially made. The Ameri can Health Convention met at New York, and re solved to recommend the entire disuse of animal food, as also of tea, coffee, and every species of stimulating dietetic. Reports were made of the great longevity attained under this regimen, and particular hopes held out to those who would limit their diet to gruel. This doctrine, supported by Dr Graham, a man of some talent, has gained a considerable number of converts. Mr Sturge even celebrates the entertainment which he received from one of them, though admitting, of course, that it consisted exclusively of " the feast of reason.1' This movement deserves particular notice, as being the first great one which has been communicated from the New to the Old World, Though originating wholly in the former, it has, as our readers must well know, been seconded with ardour by many respectable and virtuous individuals in this country. There, indeed, it does not seem to have made the same impression on the habits of the people ; but in Ireland, seconded by a peculiar religious impulse, it has exercised an influence perhaps as deep as in America. One of the circumstances which most disgusts travel lers of rank in the United States is the complete equality assumed by the lowest classes, and the studious withholding of those forms and even terms of respect to which they have been accustomed at home. This system the Americans strenuously defend as forming the very basis of their social system. It is remarked, however, that the change consists not so much in the abolition of aristocratic terms, as in their transference from one class to another. They are studiously employed in addressing the humblest order, while plebeian forms are applied to those whose circumstances might have seemed to command special respect. Mrs Trollope was mortified to find that, while her servants and ordinary workmen were saluted as ladies and gentlemen, she herself was known only under the appellation of " the old woman." The Duke of Saxe-Weimar having made 30 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. a journey by post, the driver came to him next day and asked, — " Pray, are you the man that was driven here yesterday?" "Yes." "Then, I am the gentleman that drove you." The utmost reluctance is shown to enter a menial situation ; and those who do so consider themselves as conferring a favour. The term servant has, by common consent, been expunged from the American vocabulary, and its place supplied by help, boss, and others implying kindness bestowed. Mrs Trollope describes a young girl coming to her, with a patronizing air, and saying, " I be come to help you." Such employment is usually undertaken only for a limited time, with the view of obtaining funds for a particular object. Mrs T.'s help exclaimed against the idea of a young lady engaging for so long a period as a year. They are dissatisfied if not treated on a footing of equality, and even, in some cases, if they do not sit at the same table. Mrs T. complains that this discontent and constant change is not only harassing, but mars that agreeable harmony which reigns at home in many domestic establishments. In the eastern cities, indeed, the men-servants consist mostly of free negroes and Irish emigrants. Thus the principle of equality is strenuously asserted by the great body of the American people ; and being recognised by the persons whose interests might seem most adverse to it, appears to pervade the whole of society. Yet close observation soon shows, that aristocratic feel ings are as powerful and deeply seated as in the most exclusive circles of the Old World. Vain man will always seek some distinction, by which he may be raised above his fellows ; and while the present state of society subsists, that derived from wealth, and what is termed style of living, must always have a paramount influence. De Tocqueville describes the great merchant, while he accosts and shakes hands with the shoemaker as an equal, surrounding himself at home with Sybaritic pomp and luxury. We may add, that in the social and visiting circle, he is guided by a more exclusive spirit MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 31 than is usual in Britain, where it is observed to be much stronger than in Germany. The cause may be easily traced, without having recourse to Mr Combe's sup position of a peculiar form of the national crania. Where the distinctions of rank are cheerfully acknowledged by all classes, its possessor may mix familiarly with the others, without danger of being confounded with them and losing his own place. But where the exclusion is formed only by a combination of one class to hold itself separate, it must be maintained with uniform rigour, or lost altogether. Thus are formed sets, which prevail generally in the provincial and commercial towns in Britain ; but in America their influence is much more stringent. They are cemented, too, not by mere wealth, but by certain distinctions, which appear to be still less weighty. The wholesale dealer claims to belong to a different order of beings from him who sells by retail. Dr Dewey ridicules the pre-eminence claimed in conse quence of selling a bale instead of a yard ; of the auc tioneer above the grocer. To decline all intercourse with this last class is described by Miss Martineau as a primary object in the fashionable circle. The factory girls regard themselves as elevated above all association with female domestics. It appears even that there is already a distinction between wealth long possessed and that newly acquired. In all the great cities, particu larly Philadelphia, there are old families, who possess superior consideration, and into whose circle the par venus are with difficulty admitted. We cannot fail to observe, that these exclusions, though, from the free nature of social intercourse, they may not afford any re gular ground for complaint, must be more deeply gall ing than those which are regularly sanctioned by national institutions and usages. The character and treatment of the female sex are points on which the wellbeing of the social system must vitally depend ; and in these respects America, with the necessary allowances for human infirmity, may be con sidered as happy. Republican states have been sup- 32 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. posed peculiarly to fail in this respect ; and the fault, in fact, was strikingly observed in some of the most cele brated of those in antiquity. European society, on the contrary, has since the feudal ages been agreeably distinguished by a gay and chivalric courtesy. In this we might have apprehended that the Americans, professing to be very decided republicans, would be rather deficient. On the contrary, they behave with a deference and attention to the fair sex which unfor tunately have become somewhat obsolete even in polite society among ourselves. Whenever ladies appear in public, every thing gives way to their convenience ; in steam-boats, coaches, and other public conveyances, the best seats are yielded to them by gentlemen who are perfect strangers, and who, though they may scramble somewhat roughly among each other, never think of taking their places till the females are accommodated. Even among the labouring classes females are never employed in out-door drudgery. In the hall of congress, a gallery is reserved for them, that they may witness the proceedings, a privilege denied to them in the British House of Commons ; and Mrs Trollope remarks, that there is no danger of their causing any distraction in the minds of the senators. It appears, indeed, that the pressure of public and private affairs leaves little leisure for conversation, or for the interchange of small talk and little attentions, which enliven mixed society in Europe. The young American ladies are described as possessed of uncommon personal beauty. Even Mrs Trollope, who is by no means their panegyrist, considers it superior to that of almost any other nation. Their forms are peculiarly slender, elegant, and sylph-like ; yet without that fulness, which, when combined with fine propor tions, makes what we term a fine woman. Unfor tunately, from the want of exercise in the open air, and at the same time of precaution against the vicissitudes of the weather, they suffer much ill health, which, with early marriages, causes them sensibly to decay about the age of thirty. The want of original fulness is then MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 33 particularly conspicuous, producing a meagre and scraggy appearance. They receive more liberal instruction than is usual with us, including languages, with natural and moral philosophy, and thus very generally acquire more information and taste for reading than the other sex. Grave writers indeed allege, that their acquisitions and studies are often frivolous, and that novels and books merely amusing have too prominent a place. Dr D wight alleges, that in many instances the young lady of Boston may be described as only " a well-dressed bundle of ac complishments." From circumstances which transpire in Mrs Clavers' narrative, we are led to imagine that the fashion of deporting themselves as heroines of romance, which may be said to be obsolete in this country, is there still somewhat prevalent ; as also a taste for fine names drawn from this source, and from Roman history. Dress, in the fashionable circles, is indulged in to an extent often disproportioned to the means of the family. New York has been described as containing more well-dressed females than any other city of equal size ; though of course there cannot be the same display of jewels as in the circles of royalty and nobility. The young ladies enjoy great liberty, and indeed, on coming of age, assume the direction of all the social arrangements of the family. Every thing connected with entertainments and visiting belongs to their province, the mothers only attending to give a sanction by their presence. A traveller expresses his surprise on receiving a note of invitation to a party from a young lady of seventeen. Yet this social freedom is not alleged to be attended with any impropriety either of manners or conduct. On the contrary, they are accused of prudery carried sometimes to a ridiculous extent, and even of repulsive coldness, particularly on being thrown into public among strangers, when they accept the attentions which are shown to them without vouchsafing a word or even a gesture expres sive of obligation. Those moving in the gay and aristocratic circles are accused of favouring and being easily induced to accept the alliance of foreigners, or in 34 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. the second place of their countrymen who have travelled in Europe, and thus, in the opinion of many, lost part of the genuine American character. At an early period of life, however, the lady is usually united in the matrimonial tie. This arrangement, prompted by the facility of subsistence, is alleged to take place often prematurely, before the parties are fully qualified to fulfil the parental duties. From this time, however, she renounces those gayeties which had been thought not unsuitable to her single state ; and to dance in public is, even in a youthful matron, considered no longer becoming. Her conduct as a wife and a mother is, generally speaking, exemplary. There is said to be an unusual proportion of happy marriages ; and the prevailing good temper displays itself in the domestic circle, which appears thus the most advantageous light under which an American can be viewed. His home is described as in many cases resembling an earthly paradise. The world without may be for him a scene of turbulence, and even conflict ; but that within is all harmony and peace. Instances of matrimonial infidelity are extremely rare ; and if it be true that the few cases which do occur are passed over more easily than in this country, the inference is, that the prevailing good con duct is founded on principle rather than fear. These virtues are practised under the influence of a deep sense of religion, which, as already observed, prevails gene rally among the respectable class of society, but more especially females. Even those men who themselves feel little of this spirit, show their sense of its influence on their domestic wellbeing, by encouraging it in their wives. Under this sacred influence, much of their time is spent in works of kindness, and in the management of institutions for the improvement and relief of their fellow-creatures. While the American ladies display so many estimable qualities, as good wives, good mothers, and good members of society, they may allow Mrs Trollope to criticize their want of grace, animation, and attractiveness ; of those qualities which embellish MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 35 the gay leisure of a European drawing-room. Even this censure seems passed on a somewhat superficial view. Individuals qualified to judge, have considered their manners, if somewhat cold, so marked by good sense, information, and genuine courtesy, as to be ex tremely agreeable. Hence, accomplished Europeans have chosen partners out of their number, without having any cause for repentance. We have already observed that meals and other entertainments do not bear the same social character as with us, the victuals being usually consumed with extreme rapidity, after which the party instantly break up. But among the genteeler classes in the large towns, it is now customary to prepare elaborate and splendid entertainments after the European model. The most prevalent mode, however, appears to be that of evening parties, after the manner of conversazioni, with only slight refreshment, which meet frequently, and upon general invitation. The hours are late, from ten to two or three, yet, though too crowded, they are conducted with great decorum ; cards are seldom introduced ; oaths are never heard. Even there the merchant is said often to display an anxious and care-worn countenance, and a mind little at ease for cheerful conversation. Yet it is generally agreed by travellers, that there is a circle com posed of the best-informed among this class, combined with professional and literary men, among whom subjects are discussed with a manly frankness, intelligence, and courtesy, which render the intercourse singularly agreeable. Even Mrs Trollope bears this testimony with warmth ; and Mr Buckingham declares that, after experience of similar parties both in London and Paris, he inclines to give the preference to those of New York and Boston. The present writer, from his obser vation of individuals of this class, whom he has met in this country and on the Continent, does not hesitate to concur. There was exhibited a love of conversing on important subjects, with large and liberal views, which gave to their conversation a superior stamp to 36 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. that prevalent among us, where even that of intelligent men often takes a frivolous turn. A somewhat lengthy and oratorical strain, almost as if they felt themselves on the floor of congress, appeared the only blemish. There are some minor defects in manners and deport ment, which have been criticized perhaps with extreme severity. In countries, where a court and body of nobi lity reside, a large circle is formed, within which it be comes a special study to perform their parts gracefully, and without giving offence ; and a standard is thus esta blished, which the other classes more or less strive to imitate. But where all are busied in serious occupa tions, and can spare only a few hours for social relaxa tion, there cannot be the same attention bestowed upon outward forms. A man will be disposed to adjust them rather as may be commodious and gratifying to him self, than likely to gain the favour of others. The chewing or smoking of tobacco is almost universal, and the consequent spitting indulged in with little regard to the annoyance of the company. Among enumerated offences are, wearing the hat on the most ceremonious occasions; in public places turning the back to the audience or company ; balancing the person on a chair, with the legs thrown up ; lifting the food with the knife, and thrusting it deep into the mouth. The Americans have not borne these charges very patiently, nor even pleaded guilty. Yet it is remarked, that considerable anxiety is shown to remove the grounds of offence, and that they are not slow to ridicule each other, in case of any palpable failure. It is mentioned, that in the theatre at New York, a gentleman in one of the boxes having placed himself in a peculiarly uncouth attitude, the audience saluted him with cries of " Trollope ! Trollope 1" Foreigners complain also of rude provision for the con veniences and comforts of life, and the neglect of little niceties and delicacies, which are felt as necessary by those accustomed to a more refined circle. These deficien cies almost irresistibly arise from the train of colonial life. MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 37 The new settler has indeed the means of plenty before him ; but to make them available, he must engage in a rough struggle with nature, to which his time and powers are scarcely adequate ; while help cannot be ob tained without great difficulty and expense. He must content himself, therefore, with hastily getting through the most essential processes, omitting matters of orna ment and indulgence. Becoming accustomed to live without these, he ceases to feel them needful to his comfort, and even when he reaches abundance or wealth, cares not to take the additional trouble of procuring them. In the maritime cities, indeed, which constantly com municate with Europe, this obvious imperfection has been greatly removed ; but in the interior, and still more in the west, it is still noticed. As a specimen, Mr Stuart mentions, that beyond Albany bells were not used, while the place of egg-cups was inconveniently supplied by glasses. Washington describes a ball at Alexandria, where the tables were covered with pocket- handkerchiefs instead of cloths ; but this, we presume, would not now occur. The steam-vessels are fitted up with studied splendour and every conveniency ; but in the canal-boats the old system still flourishes. Mr Steven son mentions, that the captain of one in which he sailed assumed the entire command over the passengers, and did not exercise it with much civility. The cabin was com pletely filled with hammocks, arranged in three tiers, the heaviest persons being made to occupy the lowest, with the view of ballasting the vessel. At five in the morn ing, they were all summoned to come on deck, till the sleeping apparatus could be removed, and the apartment prepared for breakfast ; and at nine in the evening, all were again called up till the beds could be replaced, which they were then obliged to occupy. One towel, brush, and comb were hung at the cabin-door, for the general use of the party ; and for their common ablu tions, a gigantic tin vessel, filled with water, was fastened to the stern. Mr Combe further relates, that the beds, on being taken down, were piled together in a heap, 38 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. and when replaced, no attention was paid that each should receive his own ; a good fortune for which, from the great number, no one could reasonably hope. The doors and windows of the apartment, forty-two feet long, in which thirty-five men were sleeping, being kept fast closed, the air became infected, and a painful sense of suffocation ensued ; while on the couches being re moved, horrid effluvia were exhaled. The ladies' cabin, though only twelve feet, contained nineteen, and ten children. These circumstances severely affected the health of a number of the passengers, though they ap peared insensible of the cause. The inns and hotels, of course, occupy much of the attention of foreigners ; and indeed the constant move ment for political, commercial, and emigrant purposes,re- quires them to be more numerous, and on a greater scale than in any other country. Astor House, in New York, makes up 500 beds. The imperfection of those in the west will be presently noticed ; but in the old states they are provided with every European accommoda tion. Some of the arrangements are, however, peculiar. Every meal is taken by the whole company in public, at a common table ; and it is very difficult to pro cure refreshments at any intermediate period. There is no drinking after dinner, the company beginning even to break up before the meal is concluded ; but liquors can always be had at the bar, around which a social circle is sometimes formed. Complaints are made by some of want of civility in the attendants. It is admitted, that there is an absence of that obsequious courtesy which is shown in this country to persons of high rank ; and that this, when claimed with airs of superiority, will be very decidedly repelled. A stranger, however, who conforms to the ideas of the country, and deals with the servant as man with man, will be coldly, perhaps, but satisfactorily attended to. The females who, in every rank, are accustomed to particular re spect, discharge the duties of waiting with especial cool ness, and hesitate not to sit down in the apartment MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. 39 when unemployed. The business of hotels is consider ably extended by the custom of many individuals board ing in them, which by single men is considered both convenient and economical. It is not unfrequent even with married people for some years, till their family increases ; a practice very foreign to British ideas, and of which many doubt the expediency. Mr Hamilton complains of the intricacy of the passages in these great hotels, rendering the discovery of a particular apartment a matter of speculation, and requiring a search like that of Parry for the north-west passage ; but we cannot say, that in large English inns the internal arrange ments in this respect are so superior as to afford much room for triumph. It may be urged, perhaps, in excuse for both, that such houses are usually formed by suc cessive additions, which are not easily made to harmonize with each other. From this subject the transition is natural to the food served up at public and private tables. This is allowed to be abundant, and of good quality. Such is particularly the case as to poultry and game, which are indeed often combined, since the turkey, the duck, and other domestic species are found here wild, and of ex cellent flavour. English palates, however, are not per fectly satisfied with the mode in which it is cooked and served up. The sauces are said to be unskilfully con cocted, too rich and greasy. Mrs Trollope remarks on some singular combinations ; as eggs and oysters ; ham with apple sauce ; steaks stewed with peaches ; yet it might perhaps be difficult to decide on what principle some of our own conjunctions take place. Pies, pud dings, and sweetmeats are favourite dishes, and, with meat, are presented at breakfast and in the evening, as well as at dinner. The favourite wines are madeira and claret, port being seldom used. Some particulars specially relating to the labouring class may conclude this notice. Their means of physical wellbeing are, as already observed, decidedly superior to those in Britain, or any country of Europe. A great 40 MANNERS AND SOCIAL LIFE IN AMERICA. proportion possess property in land, while those who work for wages obtain a much higher remuneration. Yet Mrs Trollope maintains that their condition is not really superior ; which she imputes to their expenditure on victuals, including animal food three times a-day, to the quantity of liquor consumed, and their more fre quent intervals of ill health. Yet the larger amount of income seems in itself an undoubted advantage, however they may fail in turning it to the best account. Dr Channing indeed also regrets this superfluity in diet, as injurious to health, and diverting their money from better purposes. The practice of boarding among the single and newly married is still more general than among the higher classes. Their residence, however, is not in hotels, but in houses kept for the express pur pose, where they are supplied with three meals a-day, each including fish, meat, pastry, and fruit. Their lodging space, however, is very confined, each sleeping apartment containing almost always several beds, with usually two persons in each. As it is not expected that the boarder shall spend much time in the public room, unless at meals, he has little means of employing his leisure hours at home. This too naturally induces the habit of attending places of public amusement or drinking-houses ; in which last, the entertainment as usual is not social, nor leading to turbulent intoxica tion. When the visiter enters he finds a long bar with a great variety of liquors, antura pelasgia, the Chimney Swal low, is so named from building in the inhabited parts of the country only in chimneys, for which they have forsaken the hollow trees they formerly frequented. ZOOLOGY. 263 Their nests consist of very small twigs, fastened together by a kind of glue, which is secreted from two glands in the back part of the head, and mixes with the saliva. The whole nest, attached by one edge to the wall, and destitute of lining, is thickly smeared with this sub stance, which becomes very hard. When they arrive in the spring, they usually take up their night-quarters in some hollow tree, which they may be seen entering at night and leaving in the morning in thousands, thus giving rise to the opinion that they spend the winter there in a state of torpidity. The Purple Martin (Progne purpurea) is a general favourite in the States, boxes being often set up in which they may build their nests ; and even the Indians and Negroes fix gourds or cala bashes to a long cane or pole, with the same hospitable purpose. This is a courageous bird, and a determined enemy to all beasts of prey, to hawks, and even to the bald eagle himself, their powerful flight enabling them to annoy him with impunity. The Hirundo rufa, or Barn Swallow, differs only in some minute particulars from our common chimney swallow. Of the Humming-birds, the smallest and most beauti ful of the feathered tribes, rivalling the gaudiest insects in their tiny forms and the metallic brilliancy of their plumage, four species are found in America. The most common of these, the TrocMlus colubns, in the summer months extends north, even into the fur countries. The other species seem more rare, and are only found in the southern states. The Black-capped Nuthatch (Sitta Carolinensis) is the most widely dispersed species of this genus, and is frequently seen in the woods, running in a spiral direc tion round the trunks of the trees, and detaching large pieces of the scaly bark in search ctf the insects it con ceals. They, however, also live on nuts, which, as their name implies, they break by repeated hatchings or ham merings with their bills, and are even reported to store them up for the winter. The Sitta Canadensis, a smaller migratory species, is common north of Maryland. In 264 NATURAL HISTORY. Virginia and the southern states, we find the S. pusilla, or Brown-headed Nuthatch, a restless active bird, in constant motion over the stem and branches of the pine- trees, whose seeds it eats, though its usual food is the insects that lodge in the bark. The Mniotilta varia, or Black-and-white Creeper, is another bird of similar habits, migrating from one district to another by short flights from tree to tree. The Thryathorus Ludovicianus and the allied species much resemble our European wrens, frequenting the borders of forests and piles of old timber. " It has all the restless, jerking manners of the wrens, skipping about with great nimbleness, hopping into caves, and disappearing into holes and crevices, like a rat, for several minutes, and then re appearing in another quarter."* The T. Bewicki closely resembles this in shape, colour, and movements, but is less active and lively. The House Wren (Troglodytes JEdon) is a still more familiar bird in the middle states, to which, according to Audubon, it is nearly confined. They build their nests with much confidence in the vicinity of man, in the eaves of houses, or in small boxes fixed for their use on the top of a pole in the gardens. Wilson mentions a still more curious place of abode. " In the month of June, a mower hung up his coat under a shed, near a barn ; two or three days elapsed before he had occasion to put it on again ; thrusting his arm up the sleeve, he found it completely filled with some rubbish, as he expressed it, and, on extracting the whole mass, found it to be the nest of a wren completely finished, and lined with a large quantity of feathers. In his retreat he was followed by the little forlorn pro prietors, who scolded him with great vehemence for ruining the whole economy of their household affairs."t The notes of this bird are loud, sprightly, and pleasing ; and its manners bold. It has an extreme antipathy to » Wilson's Amer. Ornith., vol. i. p. 211. Audubon's Ornitli. Biog., vol. i. p. 399. f Wilson's Amer. Ornith., vol. i. p. 132. ZOOLOGY. 265 cats, and is also at constant warfare with the titmice, swallows, and blue-birds. Of the Thrushes, one of the most common is the Turdns migratorius, or Robin of the States.* The Wood- thrush (Turdus mustelinus} is also widely diffused through that continent, where it seems to hold the same place in the affections of the people as the common thrush or nightingale of Europe. Audubon names it his greatest favourite of the feathered tribes of our woods, and says that " its song, although composed but of few notes, is powerful, distinct, clear, and mellow. I do not know to what instrumental sounds I can compare these notes, for I really know none so melodious and harmo- nical." f It is a retired solitary bird, frequenting low, thick-shaded hollows, through which a small brook meanders, overhung with alder bushes, mantled with wild vines. None of the songsters of the American forests can, however, vie with the Mocking-bird (Mimus polyglottus) in beauty or variety of notes ; and even the nightingale of the Eastern Continent must yield, it is said, to this rival of the West. " The mellowness of the song," says an enthusiastic admirer, " the varied modulations and gradations, the extent of its compass, and great brilliancy of execution, are unrivalled. There is probably no bird in the world that possesses all the musical qualifications of this king of song. To compare the essays of the nightingale to the finished talent of the mocking-bird is, in my opinion, quite absurd." £ Its own notes are bold, full, and greatly varied, but its power of imitation is perhaps still more singular, and, in the opinion of many, injures its song. When domesticated, " he whistles for the dog — Caesar starts up, wags his tail, and runs to meet his master. He squeaks out like a hurt chicken, — and the hen hurries about with hanging wings and bristled feathers, clucking to protect its injured brood. * See Northern Coasts of America, pp. 74, 75. t Ornitli. Biog., vol. i. p. 373. J Ib.,vol.i. pp. 109, 113. VOL. III. II 265 NATURAL HISTORY. The barking of the dog, the mewing of the cat, the creaking of a passing wheelbarrow, follow with great truth and rapidity. He repeats the tune taught him by his master fully and faithfully. He runs over the quiverings of the canary, and the clear whistlings of the Virginia nightingale." Less melodious are the Brown- thrush (M. rufus), the most numerous species in the States, and the Cat-bird (M. felivox\ only met with in the south. In the family of Muscicapidae, one of the best-known is the Pewit Flycatcher (Tyranula fusca\ so named from its oft repeated call and habit of feeding on insects. It builds its nest in rocks, caves, or the eaves of houses, and is a migratory species. Its notes are simple, but lively and pleasing, especially as the harbingers of spring, its arrival in many parts of the country serving as a sort of almanac. The T. virens closely resembles this, but arrives later, and frequents the thick woods, where it loves to sit on the high dead branches, chanting its feeble plaintive strain, and occasionally darting after in sects, returning by a short circular sweep to its former position. The King-bird (Tyrannus intrepidus) is well known for the instinctive boldness with which it de fends its young, hesitating not to attack the eagle him self when approaching too near its nest.* The T. cri- nitns is also a very common species, more tyrannical and quarrelsome than even the king-bird itself, though seldom attacking the larger birds of prey. " They have also frequent encounters among themselves, when they show an unrelenting fierceness almost amounting to barbarity. The plucking a conquered rival is sometimes witnessed."t Among the Corvidae, one of the most common is the Blue Jay (Cyanacoraoe cristatus\ the beau, as he has been called, among American birds, and, at the same time, the greatest thief and marauder. It attacks the * See Northern Coasts of America, p. 364. f Audubon, Oruith. Biog., vol. ii. p. 178. ZOOLOGY. 267 corn-cribs of the farmers, and robs every nest it can find, sucking the eggs or devouring the young. Au- dubon relates that he " has seen one go its rounds, from one nest to another, every day, and suck the new-laid eggs of the different birds in the neighbourhood with as much regularity and composure as a physician would call on his patients." "x~ The plumage of this bird is very gaudy, being principally of a beautiful bright purplish blue. Its voice, however, does not correspond, being generally a mere squall or scream. They are, however, good imitators, naturally mimicking the calls of other birds, and easily taught, in captivity, to pro nounce several words. The Corvus Americanus is now thought to be a diffe rent species from the carrion crow (C. corone} of Europe. It feeds not only on caterpillars, grubs, and worms, but also on seeds and grains of maize, of which it pulls up the young shoots, compelling the farmer to replant his fields sometimes two or three times. It is a con stant attendant on agriculture, and rare in the unculti vated parts of the country. Though extremely shy and cunning, all its ingenuity cannot preserve it from man, its most inveterate enemy, 40,000 having been shot in a single season in one state, Avhere a premium was offered for their heads. It is seldom found in those places where the raven (C. catototl) abounds. This also is a distinct species from the Corvus corax of Europe, with which it has been confounded. It is found in most parts of America, but builds its nest only in inaccessible rocks. It is omnivorous, feeding on small animals and carrion of every kind, and also on nuts, berries, and fruit. The Purple Grakle (Quiscalus versicolor) is a well known migratory bird in the northern states, living on worms and grubs in the spring, and in the harvest plun dering the fields of Indian corn. Its plumage is almost black ; but in particular lights a rich glossy steel-blue, * Ornith. Biog., vol. ii. p. 14. 268 NATURAL HISTORY. dark violet, silky green, or reflects a strong coppery gloss. Their flesh is dry and ill-flavoured, but the eggs very delicate. The Baltimore Oriole (Icterus Baltimore) is another well known bird of passage, often named the fire-bird, from the appearance of its bright orange tints when seen among the green leaves. Their pensile nests are very curiously constructed. Strong strings of hemp or flax are fastened round two forked twigs, and inter woven with the same material mixed with tow into a coarse cloth, not unlike a hat in its raw state. This forms a kind of pouch, six or seven inches deep, which is lined with soft substances, finished with a layer of horse-hair, and shaded from the sun and rain by a canopy of leaves. Skeins of silk or thread and pieces of string are often appropriated by the baltimore for its nest. The Rice or Reed bird (Dolychonix oryzivorus} is, accord ing to Wilson, entitled to notice for three good qualities rarely found in the same individual — his plumage is beautiful, his song highly musical, and his flesh excel lent. This bird migrates, flying in spring from Mexico eastward, mostly at night, but returning in autumn by day. They commit great havock on the rice-plantations, and are said, though on no good grounds, to have only begun to migrate since this plant was cultivated. In the spring, the male birds are black, mixed with yellow and white ; but in the month of June their plumage becomes brownish yellow, streaked witli black, which is the con stant garb of the females. Their song is a medley of short variable notes, succeeding each other rapidly ; the effect, when many are singing together, and as if in con cert, being, however, good, and extremely pleasant. In the Fringillidae are numerous small birds, some of which, as the Struthus hyemalis, the Linota borealis, and linaria, are common to both continents. The Indigo- bird (Spiza cyanea) is so named from the colour of his plumage, which in certain lights is of a rich sky-blue, and in others of a vivid verdigris-green. It frequents gardens and road-sides, and sings with much vivacity even under the meridian sun. The Painted Bunting (S. ZOOLOGY. 269 ciris} is in more general request as a domesticated bird, especially among the French inhabitants of New Orleans, who name it Le Pape, whilst the Americans call it the Nonpareil. The head and upper part of the neck are of a rich purplish blue passing into vermilion below ; its back is a glossy yellow stained with green or red, and the wings of a dusky red with green or purple. They are very frequent in the southern states, especially Louisiana, in summer building their nests in the orange- trees. They are taken in great numbers in traps, being decoyed by a stuffed bird, and sold in New Orleans for sixpence each, though in London three guineas are some times asked. Their great recommendation is the beauty of their plumage, their song resembling that of the in digo-bird, but shorter and less powerful. Among the Scansorial tribe the family of the Parrots (Psittacida) is chiefly confined to tropical regions, none being found in Europe, and only one, the Carolina parrot (Conurus Carolinensis}, in North America. East of the Alleghanies, it is rarely seen north of Maryland, though some are said to have been found beyond Albany, in New York ; but, in the milder valley of the Mississippi, they frequent the banks of the Ohio, the Illinois, and tributary streams, even to the shores of Lake Michigan in north lat. 42°. Their plumage is very beautiful and glossy, its general colour being a bright yellowish silky green, mixed with orange, red, pure yellow, blueish green, and deep dusky purple. They are very sociable, flying in flocks and roosting together in the hollow trunks or branches of the large sycamores. In these they also deposit their eggs without any nest, and, in the opinion of Mr Audubon, many of the females together. They are easily kept in confinement, and less disposed to scream and chatter perpetually than many of the other species. North America contains sixteen species of Wood peckers, all different from the nine found in Europe. One of the best-known is the Red-headed Woodpecker 2/0 NATURAL HISTORY. (Melanerpes erythrocephalus], notorious for its predatory habits in the orchards and corn-fields, and characterized by its tricoloured plumage of red, white, and black, glossed with steel-blue. It shows much discrimination in selecting the best and ripest fruit, and attacks the Indian corn with great eagerness when in its rich succu lent milky state. Their great numbers render their de predations more felt, a hundred having been shot from a single cherry-tree in one day. Insects are, however, their common food, and the benefit they thus effect pro bably more than compensates for the evil they other wise produce. In the summer they may be frequently seen flitting from tree to tree, rattling on the dead branches in search of food, or uttering their shrill lively cry. They build their nests in hollow trees, but these are often robbed by the black snake, which glides up the trunk. Another very beautiful species is the Gold- winged Woodpecker (Colaptes auratus\ named from the bright golden yellow of the expanded wings. This also plunders the corn-fields, and on this account, as well as for the market, is frequently destroyed. They live well in confinement, according to Mr Audubon, never suffer ing their naturally lively spirit to droop ; and by way of amusement will continue to destroy as much furniture in a day as can well be mended by a different kind of workman in a week. The best-known of the American Cuckoos is the Yel low-billed (Eryihrophrys Americanus\ named the cow- bird in many parts of the country, in imitation of its uncouth guttural note. Unlike its namesake in Europe, this bird builds its own nest, hatches its own eggs, and rears its own young. The nest is flat, and constructed, with little art, of twigs arid small sticks, intermixed with green weeds and blossoms of the common maple. They are fond of sucking the eggs of other birds in their owners' absence, and also, like others of the genus, feed on fruits and insects. To these the Black-billed Cuckoo (E. erythrophthalmus\ which much resembles the for- ZOOLOGY. 271 mer in appearance, adds molluscous animals, insects, and frogs. A rarer species is the E. seniculus, or Mangrove Cuckoo, found in Florida by Mr Audubon. The Passenger Pigeon (Ectopistes migratoria) is the most remarkable of the American Columbidse. The flocks of these birds mentioned by Wilson and Audubon almost exceed belief. The former calculated one as a mile in breadth and 240 miles long, consisting of 2,230,272,000 pigeons, consuming 17,424,000 bushels of mast daily ; and the latter another as one mile broad and 180 long, containing 1,115,136,000 pigeons, consuming 8,712,000 bushels of mast daily. Their nightly rendezvous in the woods is not less extraordi nary, Audubon having rode for upwards of forty miles through one whose average breadth was three miles. They generally extend a long way in a straight line, with an average breadth of several miles, and have a very surprising appearance. " The ground is covered to the depth of several inches with their dung ; all the tender grass and underwood destroyed ; the surface strewed with large limbs of trees, broken down by the weight of the birds clustering one above another ; and the trees themselves, for thousands of acres, killed as completely as if girdled with an axe." In the breeding places, sometimes a hundred nests are found in one tree, and the natives collect for great distances round to kill the birds, which they preserve by salting. The pigeons live principally on the mast of the beech-trees, to procure which they must fly immense distances. They travel, however, with great velocity, according to Audubon's calculation about a mile in a minute, pigeons having been killed near New York with rice in their crops collected in the fields of Georgia and Carolina,* The Turtle Dove (Ectopistes Carolinensis} resembles its European namesake, and is also common in the woods throughout the whole states in summer, * Wilson's Am. Orn., vol. ii." p. 194r208. Audubon, Ornith. Biog., vol. i. p. 319-326. 272 NATURAL HISTORY. but retires from the north in winter. The Zenaida Dove (Zenaida amabilis\ and some other species found principally in Florida and the south, are much rarer. The Wild Turkey (Mekagris Gallopavo) is the sole representative of the family of the Phasianidse in the northern parts of the New World. It seems formerly to have extended from Canada to the Isthmus of Panama, but is now retiring to the more uncultivated parts of the country, from the aggressions of man. Any description of so well known a bird is unnecessary. In the wild state they roost in trees, but seldom fly unless when compelled. They migrate from one part of the country to another where food is more abundant, and should a river interrupt their progress, will often remain a day or more on the bank as if for the purpose of consultation, the males gabbling obstreperously, before they undertake the hazardous voyage. They generally commence their flight from some high emin ence, all in a body, on a given signal, and the stronger cross a river a mile wide without difficulty. The wild turkeys surpass the tame both in size and beauty of plumage. The male is four feet long and five in extent of wing, weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds in general, though many are thirty and a few even forty pounds weight. The hens are smaller, being about three feet long, and nine pounds in weight. This bird is one of the gifts of the New to the Old World, having been sent from Mexico to Spain early in the sixteenth century, and from thence in 1524 to England, where they soon became very common. The English name has originated in a mistake as to their native country. The Quail or Partridge (Ortyx Virginianus} is a well known bird throughout the States, where it supplies the place of those known by the same name in Europe. They differ from these in the habit of roosting on trees at night or even in the day, when they walk with ease on the branches. Though sometimes they take refuge in the woods, they are more usually found in the open fields, where great numbers are shot or caught in traps ZOOLOGY. 2/3 and nets. The Ruffed Grouse (Bonasia umbellus), also named the partridge in the eastern states, and the phea sant in the south, is most common in the cold, moun tainous, woody parts of the country, where they are found oftener singly or in pairs than in coveys. They are shot or caught in traps for their flesh, which, how ever, is less esteemed than that of the Pinnated Grouse (Tetrao Oupido), chiefly met with in the barrens, where the ground is dry and the trees low. The Wooping Crane (Grus Americana} is the tallest and most stately of the feathered tribes in the United States, measuring nearly five feet in height when stand ing erect. They frequent extensive salt-marshes, deso late swamps, and open morasses near the sea, and in their migrations to or from their breeding-places in the north, fly at an immense height, describing large circles in the air, and uttering loud, distinct, oft repeated cries, heard long after the birds have disappeared in the air. The Great Heron (Ardea Herodias) frequents the Atlantic coast from New York to Florida, feeding on fish, for which he watches with the most unwearied patience. They breed in the tallest trees of the cedar swamps, and ten or fifteen nests are usually placed together. The American heron much resembles that of Europe in form and plumage, but is a larger bird, being about a third longer, and weighing seven pounds, whereas the latter is rarely more than four. It is also eaten, the young being excellent, and even the old, when in good condition, much esteemed for the table. The beautiful Scarlet Ibis (Ibis r libra) is sometimes found on the shores of the southern states, feeding on the small fry and molluscous animals that abound there. Its whole plumage, with some slight exceptions, isof arich glowing scarlet colour. In the same places the White Ibis (7. alba), differing in little except colour, also occurs. The family of the Scolopidae is less abundant in North America than in Europe, and nearly half the species are found in the latter. The others also have such resemblance as to have been frequently confounded. 274 NATURAL HISTORY. The Snipe (Gallinago Wilsoni) very much resembles that of Europe both in appearance and habits, differing principally in its smaller size and the number of feathers in the tail. Another bird of this family, also well known to the sportsman, is the Woodcock (Rus- ticola minor). It differs in colour from that of Europe, is very considerably smaller, and whereas the latter winters in Britain, migrating north in the spring, the former is only a summer inhabitant of the United States. The Rail (Ortygometra Carolina), in an allied family, also furnishes much amusement to sportsmen for a few weeks. It is aquatic in its habits, hiding among the long reeds and grassy marshes near the rivers. They are shot in these places in great numbers at high water, an expert marksman often killing ten or twelve dozen in a tide. In Virginia they are caught in dark nights by sailing through the reeds in a boat with a strong light, which dazzling the birds, they suffer themselves to be knocked on the head, so that twenty to eighty dozen have been killed by three negroes in the short space of three hours.* The Duck family (Anatidce) are most numerous in the regions north of those we are now describing, though many extend throughout the whole continent, and twenty of the thirty-seven American species are also met with in Europe. The Canada Goose (Anser Cana- densis) is common in all parts of the United States, retiring north in summer to breed. They are now generally domesticated, both in their native country and in Europe. The American Widgeon (Mareca Ameri cana) is common on the whole coast in winter, but fly north in spring. The Summer or Wood Duck {Aix sponsa) is distinguished for the rich and varied colours of its plumage, and for its habit of building and perching upon trees. It is oftener found by the solitary retired rivers of the interior than on the seacoast. The plum age is very glossy, and generally of rich green, blue, or * Wilson's Amer. Ornith., vol. ii. p. 239. ZOOLOGY. 275 violet tints, mixed with other colours. It has a pendent crest of feathers, of a rich glossy bronze green ending in violet. The Canvass-back Duck (Anytha valisneria) is less celebrated for its plumage, mostly white, than for " the rich juicy tenderness of its flesh, and its delicacy of flavour," which render it a universal favourite among the epicures of the New World. They migrate from the north in October, and frequent those parts of the coast where a particular plant, on whose root they feed, grows. They are extremely shy, and many stratagems are employed in order to come within shot of them. Among the Pelicanidae, of which America contains eleven species, only one, the Phalacrocorax carbo, or Cor morant, is common to it and Europe. The Sula Bassana, or Solan Goose of Europe, was formerly thought to be also a native of both continents, but those of America ($. Americana and fusca} are now considered distinct. A curious bird belonging to this family is the Snake-bird or Darter (Plotus anhinga), a native of the southern states. They are named from the bent snake-like form of their neck, which, with the head, is usually the only part of the bird seen above the water, in which they swim and dive with great facility. They are also fond of sitting on the stump of a tree or branch projecting over the water, basking in the sun, but dive on the slightest alarm. Twenty-seven species of Laridae are found in North America, and thirty-three in Europe, of which eighteen are common to both continents. The others seem more abundant in the north of the continent than on the shores of the United States. The Xema Bonapartii is most frequent in the north, though not unknown in the district we are now describing. More generally diffused is the Xema atricilla,which also occurs accidentally in Eu rope. The Herring Gull (Larus argentatus) is likewise very common in both continents. Audubon found them breeding in the pine-trees on some islands near the Bay of Fundy, the incessant persecution of men having com pelled them to give up their usual custom of building 276 NATURAL HISTORY. on the ground ; and the same desire of security had led others to transfer their nests to inaccessible rocks and cliffs. The Jagers (Lestris Buffoni and parasitica) are often found in winter on the shores of the United States, the former even as far south as the Gulf of Mexico, but their true abode seems to be in more northern regions. Like others of the genus, their habits are predatory, harassing the gulls, and robbing them of the fish they have caught. Several species of Puffins and Petrels (Procettarida), mostly common to both continents, are found especially in the northern regions of America. The Stormy Pe trels, or Mother Carey's Chickens (Thalassidroma Pela- gica\ and other related species, rather belong to the great ocean than to the regions on its shores, which they only approach to rear their young. Their dark mournful plumage and frequent appearance in the storm, have associated them with many superstitions of the sailors, though the shelter afforded by the wake of the vessel, and the food found there, seem to be the chief reasons of their attachment. Of the Grebes, the only one peculiar to Ame rica is the Pied-billed Dobchick (Sylbeocyclus Carolin- ensis\ which is found in every part of the States, and both in the fresh and salt water. They dive readily, and re main long below, so that they are only secured with difficulty. The most common Awks and Guillemots are also found in Europe ; the more interesting have been noticed in a former volume of the Library, and the regions described with which they are more intimately connected.* The southern parts of the United States, combining a temperature sufficiently elevated with a great extent of marshy ground, is a favourable abode for reptiles. The species are consequently numerous, but only a few pos sess characters generally interesting. In Carolina is found the Gopher Tortoise (Testudo Polyphemus, Bart.), of a pale brown colour. The Terrapins (Emys) are * Northern Coasts of America, p. 382. ZOOLOGY. 277 more common, upwards of a dozen species occurring in North America. One of the best-known is the Painted Tortoise (E. picta) about six inches long, and of a brownish colour, with broad bands of yellow along the edges of the plates. It frequents deep clear streams, in warm weather basking in the sun, but can only live a few days on the dry land. It is considered excellent eating. The Alligator Tortoise of Carolina (E. serpen- tina) is also valued as food, but is much rarer. It lives in similar places, grows to a length of four feet, has a long retractile neck, and its tail also long, armed above with a denticulated crest which has given rise to its common name. The Sea Tortoises or Turtles (Chelonia) are most common in the tropical climates, but are also found on the warmer parts of the coasts of the United States. The most important is the Green Turtle (T. Mydas\ so well known as an article of luxury. Though generally inhabiting the water, they seek the dry sandy shores in April in order to deposit their eggs, sometimes to the number of one hundred in a single night. These are buried in the sand and hatched by the heat of the sun, but being in great request as food, are much sought after. The flesh of the Imbricated Turtle (T. imbricata) is not eaten, but it furnishes the tortoise-shell so much valued in the arts. From eight to fifteen or twenty pounds weight are procured from each animal. The Loggerhead Turtle (T. carretta) is the largest of the genus, but is of little value except for the oil it yields. It sometimes weighs 1600 Ibs., and is seldom found farther north than Florida. The Pike-muzzled Cayman (Crocodilus Lucius) is a native of the southern states as far as north lat. 32^°, and ascends the Mississippi to the mouth of the Red River. It lives in marshy places concealed among the woods, and preys on such animals as it can seize and master, destroying not only sheep and pigs, but even oxen. They grow to fourteen or sixteen feet in length, and their skin is so thick and hard as to resist even a musket-ball. In the cold weather they hide in the mud 278 NATURAL HISTORY. and become torpid. The female deposits numerous eggs, which are used as food in Florida and other parts of America. Many species of Serpents are found in the United States, the most celebrated for their poison being the Rattlesnakes (Crotalus). They are named from the bells or rattles attached to their tails, sometimes to the number of thirty, but generally only from five to thirteen. These consist of scaly cornets or substances loosely articulated into each other, and produce when moved a noise resembling that made by rumpled parch ment, which can be heard thirty or forty feet distant. They have a very fetid odour, which warns most ani mals to avoid approaching them. When the first colo nists settled in Georgia, some of these reptiles seven to ten feet long and eight inches in diameter were common ; but now they rarely attain six feet in length, and are nearly extirpated in the most thickly peopled parts of the country. Their bite soon proves fatal even to the largest animals, and to man himself unless a remedy is immediately applied. Even when this is successful, the bad effects of the wound are said to be felt for life. The only animal secured against them appears to be the hog, which feeds upon them. They, however, move slowly, and do not bite unless provoked or to secure their food, which consists principally of birds, squirrels, hares, and other small animals. The largest species is the Crotalus durissus, or Striped Rattlesnake, but the Miliary (C. miliarus\ though much smaller, is considered more dan gerous. Several Batrachian reptiles also occur in North Ame rica ; among others, the Rana pipiens, or Bull- frog of the Virginians. It is one of the largest species of the genus, being six to eight inches long, or with its extended limbs eighteen inches. It makes a loud noise in the summer evenings, which Catesby compares to the bellowing of a bull. This animal is very voracious, swallowing young ducks and goslings whole. The R, gruniens, which makes a noise like the grunting of a pig, is as large as ZOOLOGY. 279 the former, and in the Antilles is domesticated for the table. Other species are mentioned ; and also the Hyla or Tree-frogs (H. lateralis), which conceal themselves among the leaves of trees, and feed on insects. Toads are likewise very common, and Salamanders are more nume rous than in Europe. One of the hest-known is the Hell bender ($. giganteci), or Gigantic Salamander, found in the large rivers and lakes of the interior, and measuring fifteen or eighteen inches long. In a country abounding so much in rivers, lakes, and seacoast,the Fish may well be supposed numerous. Many species have accordingly been enumerated, but the manners and habits of the natives of the waters being almost unknown, they present few points of interest, unless to the scientific student, and we shall not there fore enter into long details concerning them. The Perca flavescens is the common perch of the North American, rivers ; and on the coast there occurs a fine large species of Basse (Labrax). The Pike-perch (Lucio-perca) are likewise found, the common Green Pickering of Canada belonging to this genus (L. Canadensls). The Black- perch (Centropristis nigricans} is a large fish of a black ish-brown colour, and the Pond-perch (Pomotis vulgaris, Cuv.), with other related species, are found in the fresh waters. Some species of Sphyraina, large fish with an elongated body resembling pike, but now united with the perches, are known in America, and one (Spli. bar racuda} is nearly as much dreaded as the shark. The Weak-fish (Otolithus regalis, Cuv.) is one of the most abundant in the markets of New York. It weighs some times six pounds or more, and is caught by the line, but only in salt water. Its English name is given from the ease with which it can be pulled out of the water, or as some say, from its enfeebling effect when used habitually as food. The fishermen attribute to it certain dull sounds heard under the water at the time when it is most abundant. The power of producing a similar hollow noise has given the name of drums to the Pogo- nias, shoals of which frequent the shallow bays on the 280 NATURAL HISTORY. south coast of Long Island, in the summer, and the shores of Carolina and Florida in still greater abundance, through the whole year. The Bodianus triourus, or Triple-tailed Black-perch of Mitchell, is so named from the dorsal and anal fins being so prolonged as with the true tail to make the body appear divided into three lobes. It is about the size of the common perch, though some weigh four or five pounds. -It is thought good eating, but is rarely brought to New York. A species more esteemed in that city is the Sheep's-head (Sargus ovis\ which, when boiled, the natives think cannot be surpassed by any fish in flavour, with the exception of the trout and salmon. It forms an important object of fishery on the coasts of this state, which it approaches during the sum mer and autumn. They swim in troops, and are taken in nets, sometimes many hundreds at a time. They are then packed in ice and sent to the market of New York, or in cold seasons even to Philadelphia. The middle-sized sell for one to one and a half dollars, but the larger ones bring four to seven pounds sterling. The Scomber great, a species of mackerel which externally very much resembles that of Europe, sometimes appears in immense numbers on the coasts of the United States, where some other species are also known, several of which are now classed in distinct genera, as Nomeus and Caranx. The Temnodon saltator, a fine silvery fish, seems very widely dispersed in the ocean, Cuvier having re ceived it with scarcely any variation from the United States, Alexandria, the Cape, and New Holland. The Mugil albula, under which it would appear several dis tinct species are included, is very abundant on the coasts, especially of North Carolina. Its flesh is esteemed equally good with that of the common mullet. The soft- finned fishes (Malacopteryyii) are also numer ous in the New World, where we find either our com mon species, or others related, which supply their place. The Carp family are more abundant in the Old than the New World, where the place of the true carps (Cyprini) ZOOLOGY. 281 seems to be supplied by the genus Catastomus, with thick, fleshy-fringed lips, of which Lesueurhas described seventeen species, all living in the fresh waters. Ptecilia, with some allied genera, are small, viviparous, fresh water fishes, with fleshy lips and broad oval bodies, re sembling the loaches of our rivers in many particulars. The Common Pike (Esox lucius) is said, perhaps on insufficient authority, to be a native of North America, where two other species occur, one of which has its sides marked by a net-work of brownish lines (E. reticularis). On the coast of New England, a species of the Gar-fish (Belone truncata] is also known. The Exoceti, or Flying- fish, accompany the tropical currents far down the coast of North America, and Colonel Hamilton Smith saw one caught not far from the island of Sable, near Halifax, the ship having passed two icebergs on the same day. Many species of Salmon and Trout, some of them pecu liar, are found in the fresh waters of America, though the headquarters of this family seem to be in the Old World. The Smelt (Osmerus^ is common to both hemispheres, together with the genera Thymallus arid Coregonus. The Herring (Clupea elongata\ with some allied species, and others resembling the Shad (Alosa), are found on the American coasts and in the Ohio, five or six species classed by Rafinesque in the genera Pomo- lobus, Dorosoma, and Notemigonus. In this river and Lake Erie are found two species of Hyodon (H. clodalis and tergisus\ which are popularly known under the name of herring. Their colour, scales, large eyes, and compressed form of body, give them a strong general resemblance to these, but their mouths fully armed with teeth, their general habits, and food, principally live insects, unite them to the salmon family. Another inhabitant of the fresh waters is the Lepisosteus, whose cylindrical body is entirely covered with diamond-shaped scales as hard as stone. Both jaws are bristled over with numerous rasp-like teeth, with a row of long pointed ones along the edges. These fish grow to a large size, and are thought good eating. VOL. III. S NATURAL HISTORY. Several species of Sturgeon (Accipenser\ peculiar to North America, are found near the mouths of the large rivers, seldom venturing far from the shore. According to Pennant, they were so numerous in some rivers of Virginia, that 600 have been taken in two days, merely by putting a pole with a strong hook at the end of it into the water, and drawing it up when it touched a fish. The flesh of all the species is said to be delicious. Related to these is a curious fish, the Polyodon reticulatus, found in the Mississippi, distinguished by the extreme prolongation of the snout, which forms nearly half the whole body. In some of the caves in New York state a fish, named Amblyopsis spelceus by Dr Dekay, has been found, and specimens closely resembling it have been procured from the caverns so frequent in Kentucky. Like the Proteus of Illyria, these fish are blind, and appear even to want eyes altogether, these organs being of no use in the dark recesses they inhabit. Their place in the system seems not well determined, but they are arranged by the ob server mentioned above among the Siluridse."* * A full account of the insects peculiar to North America will be found in British America, vol. iii. p. 267-303. (Edin burgh Cabinet Library). TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 283 CHAPTER VI. Topographical Survey. Plan of this Survey— General Divisions :— I. The New Eng land States— Massachusetts — Connecticut— Rhode Island — New Hampshire — Vermont— Maine— Boundaries — Extent — Seacoast— Surface — Mountains — Rivers — Industry— Pro ductions, &c. — Return of chief Articles of Produce by the Census of 1 840— Population of Cities and Towns in 1840— Description of Boston, Lowell, Providence, and other Places. II. Middle States— New York— Pennsylvania— New Jersey — Boundaries — Extent, &c. — Returns by Census of 1840 — Description of New York, Philadelphia, &c. III. Virginia — Maryland— Columbia— Delaware— Boundaries— Extent, &c.— Returns by Census of 1840— Description of Washing ton, Baltimore, Richmond, &c. IV. The Carolinas— Georgia — Alabama— Florida— Boundaries— Extent, &c. — Returns by Census of 1840— Description of Charleston, Savannah, Mo bile, &c. — North-western States — Ohio — Indiana — Illinois — Michigan, &c. — Boundaries — Extent, &c. — Returns by Census of 1840— Description of Cincinnati, Detroit, &c. — South-western States — Kentucky — Tennessee — Mississippi — Louisiana— Missouri — Arkansas, &c.— Boundaries— Ex tent, &c.— Returns by Census of 1840— Description of New Orleans, Louisville, Lexington, St Louis, &c. ALL our preceding views of the United States have applied generally to the whole territory ; but the reader must also desire to know something of its particular states and districts. A minute detail would he incon sistent with our limits, and likely to interest few persons in this country ; but a survey, embracing the leading and most interesting features, may be comprehended within a moderate compass. 284 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. In the introductory chapter three leading divisions have heen distinguished ; — that from the ocean to the Alleghany, thence to the Mississippi, and then the ex tensive plains westward of that river. Without at tempting a separate delineation of each state, it may he convenient to form subdivisions of those which resemble each other in their physical and social character. Those in the Atlantic region may be considered as four : — 1. The New England States; 2. The Middle, being New York, Pennsylvania, &c. ; 3. Virginia, Maryland, &c. ; 4. The Carolinas, Georgia, and Alabama. The first, or New England division, is still, in many respects, the most remarkable and characteristic. It forms the north-easterly part of the United States terri tory, projecting in that direction beyond the general line of coast. The boundary on the south and east is the Atlantic, broken into various deep bays and sounds. On the north are the British territories of Canada and New Brunswick, according to a line now fixed, and composed, to a great extent, of the river St John. On the west, it is separated from New York by the long expanse of Lake Champlain, and then by a limit parallel to the Hudson, but at a small distance east of that river. The states composing this division, beginning at the southern coast, are Connecticut, east of which is the small one of Rhode Island. On the north is the important and central one of Massachusetts, whence extend northerly and parallel to each other New Hampshire and Ver mont, the first mostly, the latter wholly, inland. From them the extensive territory of Maine stretches almost due east, with a long extent of broken coast. The fol lowing exhibits a view of the extent and population of each of these states, and of the whole :* * This and similar tabular statements, afterwards given, are drawn mostly from the last edition (in 1838) of Bradford's Atlas, and from Bishop Davenport's Geographical Dictionary (New York, 1842). The Gazetteer of the United States by Darby and Dwight (New York, 1842) has also been consulted. Aid has likewise been derived from Mr Bradford's edition of my Encyclopedia of Geography (Philadelphia, 1837). TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 285 Length. Mile . Breadth. Miles. Square Miles. Population in 1840. Massachusetts Connecticut New Hampshire Vermont 130 90 If 10 157 60 70 90 90 7,250 4,764 9,491 10,212 737,699 301,015 284,574 291,948 Maine Rhode Island 225 40 195 29 32,628 1,350 501,796 108,830 802 534 65,695 2,225,862 The coast of this region is of remarkable extent, deeply indented, and containing a number of excellent harbours. South it commences with the spacious sound, named from Long Island, lying between it and the con tinent. Westerly, adjacent to New York, it is some what narrow and tortuous, but gradually spreads into a spacious and noble expanse, from eight to twenty miles wide, and with depth sufficient for the largest ships of war. The northern shore is beautifully variegated by sloping hills, bold promontories, and commodious havens. It receives the large river Connecticut, with the smaller ones of Thames and Houssatonick. Newhaven, New London, and other considerable ports, are situated on its shores. A little east of New London, the island and its sound terminate, and the coast of Rhode Island faces the ocean. On its eastern border, however, the bay of Narraganset reaches about thirty miles inland, sur rounded by shores so strikingly varied and picturesque, that Mr Darby conceives they may bear a comparison with the bay of Naples or the channel of Constanti nople. It does not receive any considerable rivers ; but derives hence the advantage of its harbours not being liable to be filled up with alluvial deposit. That of Newport, well protected also from the sea, and ad mitting the largest vessels, forms one of the finest in the world ; but before reaching Providence, at the head of the bay, the channel ceases to be navigable for any but light vessels. Then follows Buzzard's Bay, between a long peninsula stretching towards Cape Cod and the large islands of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. It 286 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. receives no river of any importance, but has various in dentations, on one of which is the important haven of New Bedford. The direction of the coast now changes remarkably. The long peninsula above named, after running about thirty- five miles east, suddenly turns northward, and proceeding for thirty miles with diminished breadth, terminates in Cape Cod, one of the most conspicuous points on the Ame rican continent. The opposite coast, as well as that of the peninsula, follows thenceforth for about 150 miles the direction of north, instead of the prior one of east. The two combine in forming the close bay of Cape Cod, noted as containing Plymouth, the earliest settlement of the pilgrims. It, however, with the whole expanse as far as Cape Ann, is generally termed Massachusetts Bay, containing the excellent harbours of Boston and Salem, the chief seats of New England commerce. This coast has the disadvantage of receiving no rivers from a source more than twelve miles inland, arid the land rises so rapidly that tide- water does not ascend above five or six miles. Its ports labour thus under much disadvan tage for intercourse with the interior, which, however, by canals and railways, is in a great measure remedied. Beyond Cape Ann is a considerable bay, which receives the Merrimac, the second river of New England, having at its mouth Newburyport. The coast holds then nearly a straight course northward, with only a slight bend at the entrance of the Piscataqua, which forms the harbour of Portsmouth, esteemed the very finest on the whole Atlantic coast. That of Maine then commences, completely indented by successive bays penetrating far inland. First occurs that of Casco, a noble sheet of water, about twenty miles across, and land-locked by a chain of islands. Portland, at its south-west extremity, forms a valuable haven, yet not receiving any large stream ; while the land rises so rapidly as to prevent the tide from ascending above a few miles. The coast now turns decidedly east, slightly declining northward, and forms a complete labyrinth of bays, sounds, pro- TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 287 montories, and islands of every size and shape, which render it one of the most intricate on earth. Only the extraordinary force of the tides could render these chan nels in winter at all navigahle. The first opening is the Kennebec, not equal in magnitude to Casco, but im portant as receiving the river of its own name, which rises deep in the interior, and after being swelled by various tributaries, of which the Androscoggin is almost equal to itself, and forming many lakes, enters after a course of about 200 miles. The tide rising about forty, affords a tolerable navigation to Augusta, the capital of the state. Then follows the Penobscot, an expanse larger and still more varied, receiving also a stream of some what longer course, bearing its own name. The tides render it navigable sixty miles up to the great commer cial port of Bangor. A range of ninety miles then follows, having many commodious ports, surrounded by pictur esque scenery, but no great navigable channel com municating with the interior. The chief are French man's Bay, enclosed by a large island named Mount Desert ; and Englishman's Bay. The remotest, on the borders of Nova Scotia, is that of Machias, into which enter two rivers of that name, east and west, that are of some little consequence. The surface of this region is one of the most striking and variegated in the world. Its mountain-ranges rise to nearly an alpine height, and their branches spread in almost every direction. They connect with and form a continuous line with the great Alleghany chain ; yet doubts have been raised, whether the two are really to be considered identical. They are composed almost entirely of granite and other primitive rocks, while the Alleghany contains scarcely any but secondary for mations. They give thus a bolder and more rugged aspect to the country, which nowhere expands into those wide fertile plains that enrich a great extent of the southern states. The chief group is that of the White Mountains, in the interior of New Hampshire, so named from being ten months in the year covered 288 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. with snow. Its conspicuous peaks have been con secrated by the Americans to the memory of the chief leaders of the revolution and most popular pre sidents. Hence the loftiest is named Washington, estimated once at 7300 feet, but according to Bradford only 6428. The sides to a great height are covered with a dense forest of varied trees. These gradually cease, except some evergreens, while beds and ledges of granite, gneiss, and sienite, become conspicuous. At the elevation of 4000 feet, even the first be come low and stunted, yet their branches spreading horizontally form an impenetrable thicket. This Lilli putian forest reaches even to 5000 feet ; but the summit is quite bare and rocky. The prospect is vast and wild in the extreme. Mountains rise behind mountains on every side, and their crowded peaks resemble the broken waves of a tempestuous ocean. This scenery, being considered the grandest within the circuit of the States, attracts numerous visiters, for whose accommodation an inn has been erected at a considerable height up the acclivity. Mount Adams is estimated at 5900 feet, Jefferson at 5860, while others, scarcely inferior, receive the names of Franklin, Madison, and Monroe. The other great ridge is called the Green Mountains, from their general verdant aspect, whence indeed the French gave to the territory the name of Vermont. They traverse its centre from north to south, declining on each side into elevated and well watered valleys. The chief peaks are Mansfield, 4279 feet ; Camel's rump, 4188 ; Killing-ton, 3675. This range is continued into Massachusetts under the name of Hoosac, but the highest point there is Wachuset, 2990 feet : the state contains also the insulated summits of Saddle Mountain, 3600 feet, and Taconic, 3150. A spur from the Green Mountain even enters Connecticut, which however consists mostly of gentle hills interspersed with smiling valleys, and presenting a varied and beautiful, but rarely sublime aspect. The surface of Rhode Island, is nearly similar, diversified with rocky shores. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 289 Maine consists mostly of rugged heights, separated by valleys, but attaining no great elevation unless on the north-western border, where a ridge connected with the White Mountains contains Katahdin, 5355 feet high. Mars Hill, a leading point in the disputed territory, but now ceded to America, has only 1520 feet. The rivers of New England, holding a confined course through close mountain-valleys, do not reach any first-rate magnitude. The chief is the Connecticut, which traverses all the finest part of the country. Rising on the border of Canada, it holds a long course southwards, dividing the states of New Hampshire and Vermont, and receiving all the waters from the White Mountains on one side and the Green Ridge on the other. These, however, are mere mountain- torrents. The course is then across Massachusetts, amid high but fine pastoral valleys, passing finally through Connecticut, mostly bordered by alluvial plains and fertile meadows. It enters the sea at New Haven after flowing about 450 miles, during which its basin has included a singular variety of aspects as well as climates and productions. The Merrimac, springing in New Hampshire, and fed from the eastern slope of the White Mountains, follows a line of above 140 miles, the lower part of which has rich alluvial borders. In Maine, the Kennebec, and Penobscot, from sources in the vicinity of those of the Chaudiere and the St John, flow each about 200 miles, and have vast quantities of timber floated down their streams. A striking peculiarity observed in the American continent is the total absence of lakes, from the Gulf of Mexico to lat. 43° N., and, north of that line, their immense profusion and almost matchless extent. New England, south of the Merrimac, belongs to the first of these divisions ; but beyond that river lakes are very numerous, though not to be compared with the inland seas of British America. They abound in New Hampshire, and compose, it is believed, one-sixth of the surface of Maine. The principal one in the former, 290 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. known by the lengthy Indian name of Winnipiseogee, is twenty-three miles in length, and from one to ten wide, surrounded by the most picturesque scenery. This is usually visited by travellers on the way to Mount Washington, and for their accommodation a steamer is employed. The largest in Maine are Moosehead, near the source of the Kennebec, fifty miles long, and Chesuncook near that of the Penobscot, twenty-five miles ; the former also navigated by steamers. New England, at its first discovery, was one dense and continuous forest, above which only the naked peaks of the highest mountains appeared conspicuous. A large proportion has now been cleared, and agriculture is practised more diligently than in any other quarter of the Union. There is even some application of science, elsewhere almost unknown. Still the soil, being elevated and rugged, though well watered, is best adapted for pasturage, and for the grains of secondary quality. The states most productive in these respects are Massa chusetts, Connecticut, and the southern part of New Hampshire ; and Vermont for cattle and sheep. The timber trade, once extensive, has been diminished by the progress of cultivation, except in Maine. The mines of iron are considerable, mostly in Massachusetts. Manufactures are more flourishing than any where else in America ; being chiefly cotton, woollen, leather made into boots and shoes, straw bonnets and hats, and paper. These are worked by large establishments in Massachusetts, and by numerous small ones in Con necticut. New England, principally from Massachusetts and Maine, carries on almost all the fisheries of the Union, whether on the coasts, on the Newfoundland bank, or those distant seas in which the whale is captured. Ship-building also is peculiarly active, chiefly in the same two states, especially Maine. The following are the returns under the more important heads accord ing to the census of 1840. Agriculture,, $c. — Horses and mules, 269,660 ; neat cattle, 1,545,183 ; sheep, 3,830,207 ; hogs, 748,608 ; TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 291 poultry, value 778,329 dollars ; wheat, 2,013,420 bush els ; barley, 797,400 ; oats, 7,449,266 ; rye, 1,985,041 ; buckwheat, 778,084; Indian corn, 6,924,109; wool, 8,332,909 Ibs. ; hops, 587,983 ; potatoes, 35,120,500 bushels ; hay, 3,083,743 tons ; dairy produce, value 9,117,154 dollars ; timber, 6,125,980 dollars ; iron, cast, 34,138 tons ; bar, 10,407. Manufactures. — Cotton, value 31,611,880 dollars ; woollens, 12,869,396 ; leather, 14,871,332 ; hats, caps, and straw bonnets, 3,153,102 ; hardware, 3,341,273. Fisheries, Commerce, S$c. — Dried fish, 702,546 quin tals, pickled, 187,046 barrels ; spermaceti oil, 4,302,491 gallons ; other oil, 6,031,673 ; whalebone, &c., value 648,420 dollars; ships, 3,814,396 dollars; commerce, foreign houses, 383 ; commission houses, 213 ; supposed capital, 19,467,787 dollars ; retail houses, 9627 ; capital, 31,742,874 dollars. The following are the principal towns in each state, with their population in 1840 : — Massachusetts.— Boston, 93,383 ; Lowell, 20,796 ; Sa lem, 15,082 ; New Bedford, 12,087 ; Springfield, 10,985 ; Nantucket, 9012 ; Newburyport, 7161 ; Cambridge, 8409; Taunton, 7645; Worcester, 7497; Plymouth, 5281. Connecticut.— New Haven, 14,390 ; Hartford, 12,793 ; Norwich, 7239 ; Middleton, 7210 ; New London, 5528. New Hampshire. — Concord, 4897 ; Portsmouth, 7887 ; Dover, 6458 ; Exeter, 2925. Vermont. — Montpelier, 3725 ; Burlington, 4271 ; Middlebury, 3162 ; Bennington, 3429 ; Woodstock, 3315. Maine.— Portland, 15,218 ; Bangor, 8627 ; Augusta, 5314; Bath, 6141 ; Belfast, 4186. Mode Island.— Providence, 23,171 ; Newport, 8333 ; Warwick, 6726. Boston, as our readers must have observed, was the city most distinguished in the early history of America. It was that also first raised by commerce to wealth and TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. prosperity ; and these have continued rapidly to increase, the population between 1800 and 1840 having grown from twenty-five to ninety-three thousand. Though surpassed by the still more extraordinary advance of New York, Philadelphia, and New Orleans, it is still considered the most finished and handsome city in the Union. Mr Hamilton observes it to have less of the rawness and incongruities which disfigure the more overgrown capitals. The city is built on a peninsula connected with the continent by a narrow isthmus called Boston Neck, and at other points by seven bridges. The harbour, enclosed by projecting promontories, is capable of containing 500 vessels of the largest size. It is at once protected and adorned by forty islands, several of which are covered with verdure. The wharfs are nu merous and spacious, one containing a range of stores. The public buildings, mostly of the fine granite found in the territory, are considered superior to those of any other American city. The state-house, indeed, though the most conspicuous, is only of brick ; but it is handsome, in a lofty and commanding situation, with a most extensive prospect. In a niche on the lower floor is Chantrey's statue of Washington, which cost 16,000 dollars. The market-house, about 500 feet long, and built of granite, is boasted of as the handsomest similar building in the world. The upper story contains a spacious hall occupied by the New England Society for the encouragement of do mestic manufactures. The Exchange is a superb structure seven stories high, and containing 202 apartments. Trinity Church is a spacious Gothic edifice, constructed at an ex pense of 160,000 dollars. The city contains many other handsome churches. The Tremont Hotel, the most ele gant and commodious in the States, is of gray sienite, with a Doric portico, costing 100,000 dollars. Faneuil Hall, the County Court-house, and the Alms-house, are also ornamented buildings. The Athenaeum consists of two buildings, one containing a library of 25,000 volumes, another apartments for public lectures and other scien- TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 293 tific purposes. The streets were formerly narrow and crooked, and the houses as elsewhere mostly wooden ; but of late they have been rendered more wide and commodious, while brick and stone have become the prevailing materials. Mr Dickens expresses decided admiration of it as a beautiful city. The charitable in stitutions are extensive, including four hospitals for boys and three for girls, with numerous free schools, among which there is one for negroes. Boston has considerable manufactures, the value of which is estimated at about 11,000,000 dollars. Her capitalists have also large sums invested in those of Lowell, Waltham, and other towns. Her commerce, though now inferior to that of New York, is still very great, the imports being reckoned at about fourteen, and the exports at ten millions of dollars. A peculiarly literary and intellectual spirit prevails. The periodicals amount to about sixty, of which the North American Review takes the lead ; thirty-one are newspapers. On the continent, opposite to Boston, is Charleston, forming in fact a large suburb, containing the state- prison on the plan of solitary confinement, and also the navy- yard within an area of sixty acres. In another direction from the capital is Cambridge, comprising two large villages, and Harvard University, the best-endowed and most distinguished institution of that kind in the States. It has five halls, a library of 40,000 volumes, and good collections in science and natural history. In its vicinity is Auburn Cemetery, whose area of 100 acres is laid out in the style of the Pere la Chaise at Paris. Lowell is now the second town in Massachusetts, and has been esteemed, though on a small scale, the Man chester of America. Its manufactures are chiefly of cotton, carried on by several large companies. The operatives are mostly females, 5000 being employed, with only 1520 males. Salem, a very early settlement, has had its progress impeded by the want of deep water in the harbour ; but its merchants display much enterprise in foreign commerce, and have lately embarked in the 294 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. whale-fishery. Its chief seats, however, are New Bed ford and Nantucket, the former in Buzzard's Bay, hand somely built and agreeably situated on an eminence, with a safe and capacious harbour ; the latter on a sandy island, south of Cape Cod peninsula. Plymouth is revered as the earliest settlement of the pilgrims, to whose memory a hall has been erected ; but the bay has not sufficient depth of water. Newburyport, at the mouth of the Merrimac, loses much of this advantage from a bar at its entrance. Worcester, Springfield, Nor thampton, and generally the towns and large villages in the interior of Massachusetts, are beautifully situated, and well laid out, with broad streets bordered with trees, houses mostly of wood, but adorned with pillars, ve randas, and green doors, and the site surrounded with ornamented villas. The towns in the smaller New England states bear generally a uniform aspect ; open and agreeable, the houses chiefly wooden, but with state and court-houses, churches, prisons, and other public edifices, of an archi tecture more or less elegant. Providence, in Rhode Island, seated on a hill which overlooks the beautiful bay of Narraganset, ranks next to Boston, both in popu lation and commerce. New Haven, in Connecticut, be sides a flourishing trade, is distinguished by Yale College, next in eminence to Harvard, having produced Dwight, Silliman, and other eminent characters. Portsmouth in New Hampshire, Portland and Bangor in Maine, are considerable ports, flourishing by commerce ; Montpelier and Burlington, in Vermont, are small country towns on very picturesque sites. The Middle States form a head under which we may comprehend the larger ones of New York and Pennsyl vania, with the smaller one of New Jersey. They were founded later than those of New England, and were long left considerably behind in enterprise and rapidity of progress. Recently, however, they have be stirred themselves in an extraordinary manner, having the advantage of a milder climate, and a greater extent TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 295 of fertile land. They have been enabled, by vast interior works and communications, to open up their spacious back settlements, and also to become the channel for the great and augmenting produce of the west. New York in particular has thus risen to such importance as to acquire a preponderant influence in the Union, and be called often "the empire- state." The following may be given as the statistical outline of this part of the Union : — Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Square Miles. Population in 1840. New York. 316 304 46,000 2,428,921 Pennsylvania 307 160 47 000 1 724 033 New Jersey 160 110 8,320 373,306 783 574 101,320 4,526,260 The coast of this territory is not extensive, as the spacious bays of Chesapeake and Delaware, though re ceiving several of its greatest rivers, have, through the peculiar direction of their course, been attached to a more southern division. The oceanic line, belonging almost entirely to New Jersey, presents by no means that bold and broken aspect so remarkable in New England ; still it has considerable openings, forming valuable havens. The territory of Long Island, at its western extremity, encloses the spacious and admirable port of New York, the only point, though one of immense value, at which that great state touches the ocean. The surface is bold and variegated, though not in the same degree as in New England. Mountains, considered as belonging to the great Appalachian or Alleghany range, cross its centre, and in their passage make a general change in the direction of the chain from west- south west to almost due south. The most remarkable branch is that named the Catskill, partly bordering the Hudson, above which its cliffs ascend in forms strikingly pictur esque. Round Top, its highest point, rises to 3800 feet. The most admired spot, however, and the resort of nu- 296 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. merous visiters, is that called the Pine Orchard, on which, at 2274 feet above the river, has been erected a splendid hotel, called the Catskill Mountain House. The road is steep and circuitous, amid dense forests, in which the traveller is almost enveloped, till at an abrupt angle of the road, he suddenly descries this singular mansion, perched on a table-rock like an eagle among the clouds. The view commands a circuit of seventy miles, along the highlands of Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connec ticut. The Kauterskill Falls, 180 feet high, and a ma jestic rocky amphitheatre, also adorn this vicinity. In the northern part of the state, beyond the Mohawk, is another mountain-mass, the Mohegan, proved by recent surveys to be still more elevated. Mr Bradford estimates Marcy at 5300 feet, White-face at 4850. The ridge passing through Pennsylvania is that which bore origi- ginally the name of Alleghany, now transferred tc the whole. It is inferior, yet in forming the portage rail road, no point was found lower than 2500 feet over which it could be carried. These rugged heights are singularly contrasted by a deep valley, or rather chasm, extending from New York along the Hudson and Lake Champlain to the St Law rence, believed by Darby to be nowhere more than 141 feet above the level of the Atlantic. He considers this the most remarkable mountain- valley in the world, with the exception of the great Scottish glen crossed by the Caledonian Canal. The navigator on the above lake, while he sees mountain-peaks rise on each side round him, can scarcely believe that his own level does not exceed eighty feet. This opening, however, has been of singular advantage to the commerce of Ame rica, and especially of New York, being vastly aided by the great transverse valley, reaching from Albany to Lake Erie. It has not only afforded a channel for the Great Canal, but contains wide tracts of alluvial soil, fitted for the richest productions. The rivers of this division are great and important, forming a main source of its prosperity. It is remarked TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 297 that they do not descend from the brow of the moun tains facing- the Atlantic, but rise on the other side, and penetrate through their rude rocky barriers to the plain. This structure has partially favoured the efforts made to form navigable channels across the Alleghany. The Hudson, the most important of all the Atlantic streams, rises among the Mohegan Mountains, west of Lake Champlain. Thirty-five miles below, it receives the Mohawk, which, from the vicinity of Lake Ontario, has watered a great part of the western valley. The tide reaches to the point of junction ; and a navigable channel, the most important in the United States, extends down to New York. This, as already observed, is con tinually traversed by magnificent steamers, and being connected by the Great Canal with Lake Erie, brings down almost all the produce of the west. Its banks are adorned with very bold and varied scenery, consisting, immediately above New York, of enormous walls of primitive rock 1200 or 1500 feet high. Farther up, the banks, without being mountainous, become bold, rocky, and often precipitous ; farm-houses and villages seem to hang upon the cliffs, or to rise by stages from the water's edge. The shores of the Mohawk slope gently up wards, presenting an aspect soft and pleasing rather than grand. The Susquehanna, the greatest river of Pennsylvania, is formed by the union of two branches, the East and West. The first, rising in New York, on the northern spine of the Catskill, not far from the Mohawk, flows in a winding course, swelled by the Tioga, and near Sunbury receives the western branch from beyond the Alleghany. A little above Harrisburg it is increased by the waters of the Juniata from the south-west, considered often as a third branch. Near Havre de Grace, a little beyond the limits of the state, it expands into the great estuary of the Chesapeake, on which Baltimore in Maryland carries on most of the trade both of the bay and river. The Delaware is of inferior magnitude, yet perhaps of equal value. Its fountains are not distant from those of the eastern VOL. III. T 298 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. Susquehanna, and after widely diverging, it finally ap proaches very near, but instead of uniting, spreads into another large bay bearing its own name. This too is beyond the limits of Pennsylvania, yet the commerce is carried on entirely by Philadelphia, situated on the river at the head of its navigable waters. The Passaic and Raritan are small but useful streams that water New Jersey. The lake region commences in the back settlements of New York. On its eastern border extend Lakes George and Champlain, the former of which, so cele brated for its picturesque beauties, has been already described. The latter is in this respect inferior ; yet its scenery too is bold and striking, and stretching north for 140 miles, almost to the St Lawrence, it materially pro motes communication with Canada. Farther west, those of Cayuga and Seneca, fifty-five and thirty-five miles long, have been made greatly to facilitate inland naviga tion. This state borders also on Lakes Ontario and Erie. The region now described is one of the most produc tive in the whole range of the States. The surface is indeed various, and a large proportion very rugged ; but the great plain from the Hudson to Lake Erie, as also the lower borders of the Susquehanna and Delaware, with most part of New Jersey, contain rich flats and bottoms, which yield in perfection the best grains and fruits of the temperate climates. There are copious and largely worked mines of coal, iron, and salt. Manufac tures are considerable and increasing, but still much behind those of New England. The inferiority in re spect to fishery is even more decided, though that of the whale is pursued to a certain extent from New York. Commerce,however,both foreign and domestic, flourishes to a greater degree than in any other quarter of the Union. The former, from Philadelphia, and still more New York, embraces the most distant regions of the globe ; the latter, through the stupendous system of canals and railways already described, renders it the chief medium of communication between the eastern and western TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 299 territory. The following are the returns made under the census of 1840, of the produce of the principal articles : — Agriculture, &;c. — Horses and mules, 910,174 ; neat cattle, 3,304,111 ; sheep, 7,105,982 ; hogs, 3,065,472 ; poultry, value, 2,176,167 dollars; wheat, 26,273,698 bushels ; barley, 2,742,462 ; oats, 44,401,190 ; rye, 11,259,016 ; buckwheat, 5,257,744 ; Indian corn, 29,574,283 ; wool, 13,291,066 Ibs. ; hops, 501,262 ; potatoes, 41,731,346 bushels ; hay, 4,773,551 tons ; sugar, 12,313,920 Ibs. ; dairy, value, 15,011,345 dollars; lumber,5,313,113; iron, cast, 138,597 tons; bar, 148,1 08; coal, anthracite, 859,686 ; bituminous, 11,620,654 bush els ; salt, 3,617,862. Manufactures.— Woollen, value, 6,297,108 dollars ; cotton, 10,739,348 ; hats, caps, &c., 4,916,010 ; leather, 11,298,463 ; soap, 17,520,753 Ibs. ; candles, 6,719,172 ; spirits, 18,548,025 gallons; beer, 19,031,471; glass, value, 2,088,471 dollars ; hardware, 2,437,531 ; ma chinery, 5,648,719. Fisheries, Commerce, $c. — Spermaceti, 412,251 gal lons ; other oil, 1,349,541 gallons ; whalebone, &c., value, 433,905 dollars ; houses engaged in foreign com merce, 665 ; commission-houses, 1230 ; estimate of ca pital invested, 53,344,812 dollars ; retail houses, 20,245 ; capital, 82,090,812 dollars. The following are the principal towns in each state, with their population in 1840 : — New York.— New York, 312,710 ; Brooklyn, 36,233 ; Albany, 33,721 ; Rochester, 20,191 ; Troy, 19,334 ; Buffalo, 18,213 ; Utica, 12,782 ; Salina, 11,013. Pennsylvania. — Philadelphia, 228,691 ; Pittsburg, 21,115 ; Allegheny, 10,089 ; Lancaster, 8417 ; Reading, 8410 ; Harrisburg, 5980. New Jersey. — Newark, 17,290 ; New Brunswick, 8693 ; Patterson, 7596 ; Trenton, 4035. New York is the undoubted capital of the United States, the greatest and most flourishing city in the new continent, and, next to London, the chief com- 300 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. mercial emporium in the world. It is built on Man hattan Island, about twelve miles long and one and a half broad, dividing the Hudson into two channels, one of which, on the west side, retains the name, the other is called the East River. The former is the main seat of the interior traffic by the river and canal, the latter of the coasting trade, while the spacious bay facing the southern extremity, nine miles long by four broad, accommodates the shipping employed in foreign intercourse, and is crowded with the flags of every nation. The most conspicuous feature in the city is the Broadway, commencing at the southern end, carried in a straight line for between two and three miles, and intended finally to reach the whole length of the island. It is eighty feet wide, partly adorned with trees, contain ing numerous splendid shops, and perpetually traversed by crowds of the busy and the gay. The park is a square of several acres, open to the public, and bordered by several fine buildings. Washington and Hudson squares are also spacious, and others have been projected. The northern or upper quarter, containing the mansions of the opulent, includes some handsome streets ; but the lower part, adjacent to the harbour, is in many places narrow, crowded, and built of timber. Hence it was long infested by the yellow fever, and often the scene of destructive fires, by which the city has been re peatedly desolated. It has, however, been of late very much improved and opened up. At the southern point is a space termed the Battery, open to the public, and commanding a magnificent view over the bay and the adjacent shores of Long Island and New Jersey. There are also two large public gardens ; but, upon the whole, open spaces for healthful recreation are somewhat deficient. The place is neither so well lighted nor cleaned as is usual in English towns. A scanty supply of water once aggravated these evils, but has been com pletely remedied by one of the noblest aqueducts ever constructed. It is led from Croton River, twenty-one miles, through a stone channel, to Murray's Hill, three TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 301 miles north of the city, and seven feet higher than its loftiest houses, to which it is distributed by pipes. The minimum daily quantity is expected to be 30,000,000 gallons, the ordinary one 50,000,000. The finest edifice is the City-hall, in the park, with a front of white marble, 216 feet long, the interior adorned with portraits and busts of presidents and other eminent Americans. It cost 500,000 dollars. There is a spacious edifice for objects of literature, philosophy, and the fine arts, but only of brick. The Exchange^ in Wall Street, burnt down by the great fire in 1835, has been rebuilt of white marble. The Customhouse, 177 feet long, is formed on the model of the Parthenon. There are about 150 churches, of which four are conspicuous ; Trinity and St Paul's in Broadway, having spires, the one 198, the other 234 feet high ; St John's in Hudson Street, reared at an expense of 200,000 dollars, and St Patrick's Romish Cathedral, the largest of all.' There are eight spacious buildings for public schools. The Park and Bowery Theatres are large, though not very fully attended. Three hotels, the Astor, City, and Holt's, are among the largest establishments of the kind in the world, and handsomely built. There are two academical institutions, Columbia College, founded in 1754, and the University of New York, raised by sub scription in 1831. The edifices built for both, especially the latter, are very handsome. The students attending in 1842 were respectively 120 and 135, numbers seemingly small compared with the greatness of the place. The commerce, with the wharfage and other accommodations, has been treated under that general head. The progress of the city, even according to the general career of things in the New World, has been almost magical. The population in 1696 was 4302 ; in 1786 still only 23,614 ; in 1840 it had risen to 312,000. Brooklyn, on the opposite coast of Long Island, originally consisting of the country villas of the merchants, has grown into a city, with regular streets and handsome edifices. The United States navy-yard and naval hospital have 302 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. been established there. The two places are connected by steam-ferries, where coaches are received on board, and conveyed across without the passengers requiring to alight. Albany, at the head of the tide- waters of the Hudson, was considerable even while the country was subject to Holland ; and it has still much the aspect of a Dutch town, clean, neat, and substantial. It has attained, however, additional importance since the formation of the Great Canal from the river to Lake Erie. All the goods thus conveyed must be landed and reimbarked at this city, which becomes hence a great scene of inland commerce. Rising in an amphitheatre from the river and canal, it presents a very handsome appearance. Troy, seven miles higher, at the head of the sloop navigation, has acquired consideration from manufactures and establishments for education. Along the canal line, cities have sprung up almost instantaneously, where just before had been a complete wilderness. Buffalo pos sesses vast importance from its site at the junction of the canal with the lake. Rochester and Utica, situated in the richest part of the tract through which the former is carried, are extensive marts of agricultural produce. These cities, so hastily reared, contain handsome houses, and public edifices vying with those in the great capitals ; yet the vicinity is rude, and stumps of trees disfigure the streets and squares. Philadelphia, the chief town of Pennsylvania, and in magnitude the second city of the States, is situated on the peninsula formed by the junction of the Delaware and Schuylkill, the latter accessible to large merchant vessels, the former to those of almost any dimension. This is a more modern city than those hitherto de scribed, being founded as we have seen in 1G83 by William Penn, not in an irregular and fortuitous manner, but upon a preconceived and regular plan, the streets being straight, of equal breadth, crossing at right angles, and opening into spacious squares. The houses are similarly well built and commodious. Yet TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 303 though the faults incident to most cities are thus avoided, complaints are made that the general effect is mono tonous. Mr Dickens declares it distractingly regular, and would have given the world to see a winding and tortuous avenue. The suburbs in fact deviate into partial irregularities. The finest building is that formerly occupied by the United States Bank, con sidered the purest specimen of Greek architecture in the Union. It is of white marble, as are also the Bank of Pennsylvania and Girard's. The Mint of the United States, in the Ionic style, and the Exchange, in the Corinthian, are also conspicuous edifices. There are eighty-five churches, of which one Presbyterian, two Episcopal, and one Roman Catholic, are large and hand some. The works for drawing a supply of water from the Schuylkill, constructed at an expense of nearly 1,500,000 dollars, were considered unmatched on that side of the Atlantic, till the formation of the Croton Aqueduct at New York. Various manufactures are carried on, some expensively, particularly paper and printing. In intellec tual pursuits, this city rivals Boston and New York, the branches chiefly cultivated being abstract science and natural history. The public library is composed of several collections, comprising in all 50,000 volumes, with a museum containing some remarkable remains of extinct animals. The Medical School is reckoned the first in the Union, being attended by about 500 students. Benevolent institutions, liberally supported in all the American cities, exist here on a particularly large scale. The Hospital and Penitentiary deserve special mention. The Prison is remarkable for the attempt to effect the reform of criminals by labour and solitary confinement ; though this last arrangement appears to have been carried somewhat too far. The commerce of the city has been already noticed under that general head. Harrisburg, the seat of state-government, Lancaster, and Reading, are well-built country towns, agreeably situated in the most fertile tracts on the Delaware and 304 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. Susquehanna. They are much surpassed, however, by Pittsburg, which has been termed the Birmingham of America. It is situated on the opposite side of the mountains, at the junction of the two branches form ing the Ohio, being thus placed at the head of all the western waters. Its chief manufactures are iron, cut lery, machinery, with some woollens, cottons, and paper. A large proportion of the vessels which navi gate the Ohio and Mississippi are here constructed. The abundance and close vicinity of coal, as already described, have greatly contributed to its progress, though giving to the mansions a dark and gloomy appearance. The suburb of Alleghany, on the opposite side of the river of that name, incorporated only in 1828, has rapidly grown into a large town. The towns of New Jersey, notwithstanding their maritime situation, have not risen to greatness by foreign trade. They are noted, however, for manufactures, the rivers affording an ample supply of water-power. Trenton, the state -capital, is comparatively small ; but Newark is one of the most industrious towns in America, carrying on a great variety of fabrics. It is well built, with broad streets and large open spaces. Patterson, near the picturesque falls of the Passaic, derives from that stream a copious supply of water- power, and has cotton and other manufactures on a large scale. The territory of the Union south of Pennsylvania and east of the Alleghany is generally known under the appellation of the southern states. It is characterized by a wider extent of level surface, flat and uniform shore*, the productions of a warmer climate, and the general employment of slave-labour. To make a more precise survey, we may form it into two divisions, to be viewed as the middle and the extreme southern. The former is composed of the large states of Virginia and Maryland, the small one of Delaware, and the terri tory of Columbia. It was the portion earliest colonized, and from its fruitfulness and central situation, has acted a TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 305 conspicuous part in the history of the Union. Notwith standing, indeed, superior natural advantages, it is now left behind in industry, wealth, and importance, by the northern states. Still it occupies a position of great and commanding influence. The following may be given as its statistical outline : — Virginia Maryland Delaware Columbia Territory Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Square i Population Miles. in 1840. 370 180 87 10 290 110 36 10 70,000 13,960 2,120 100 1,231,797 469,232 78,085 43,712 647 446 556,180 1,830,826 The coast here presents very remarkable features. It is broken by two deep and noble bays, stretching far into the interior, not in a direct line, but from north to south, nearly parallel to the ocean, from which and from each other they are separated by a long peninsula. The Chesapeake, the most interior and greatest, is reckoned by Darby to have a length of 180 miles, an average width of 20, and a superficies of 3600 square miles. Its outline presents neither the bold and broken character of the northern range, nor the mono tonous aspect of the more southern, being much varied by bays and the estuaries of great rivers, yet not elevated or rugged. Delaware Bay, to the east, is smaller and more uniform, chiefly important from its connexion with Philadelphia. These two grand inlets approach so close at their head, that a ship-canal of ten miles has been sufficient to connect them, and confer thus important benefits on navigation. This is confined to the two bays ; for the exterior ocean-coast, from Cape Charles to Cape Henlopen, consists of long sandy islands, with shallow sounds, not one of which can serve for a harbour. The mountains of this tract form a continuation of the Alleghany, which, entering from Pennsylvania, runs 308 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. nearly south, with some declination westward ; while the direction of the coast leaves a wide and fertile plain intervening. Several successive ridges with interposed valleys are observed ; the principal being called Blue, Kittatinny, and Alleghany Proper. They were supposed till of late much inferior to those in the north, and not to rise higher than 2000 feet. This statement may even be found in the first chapter of this work, which was printed before recent surveys, carried into the interior, had traced peaks much more elevated. That of Otter, in the Blue range, is stated at 4260 feet ; White Top, among the Iron Mountains, a branch of the Kittatinny, at 6000 ; Powell's, in the most westerly ridge, at 4500. Virginia, like New York and Pennsylvania, has a ter ritory west of these mountains, reaching even to the Ohio. The rivers of this quarter possess also a great import ance. The Susquehanna and Delaware, indeed, which descend from the north into the two great bays, have appeared to belong to a different region. Others of equal magnitude, however, flow eastward from the Alleghany to the Chesapeake. After crossing an ele vated plain that borders the mountains, they encounter a primitive ledge, down which they are precipitated with great violence, and navigation is interrupted, though after a long previous range. The Potomac is the most northerly, and may in a general sense be called a boundary stream, rolling for a certain space almost along the Pennsylvanian frontier. It rises on the western side of the Alleghany, having sources not remote from those of the Ohio and Susquehanna, then penetrates through deep mountain-valleys, till it arrives on the plains of Virginia. In forcing its way through the opposing barriers, it exhibits scenes of peculiar grandeur. At Harper's Ferry, the main stream, and its northern tribu tary the Shenandoah, rush from opposite sides with the violence of torrents, and encounter with a shock, by which a mountain has been rent asunder, and converted into a range of frightful precipices. Farther down oc- TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 307 cur the great falls, where the whole river rushes over a perpendicular ledge of seventy-six feet, and a succession of foaming rapids continues for fifteen miles. At Alex andria, the port of Washington, it is navigable for vessels of any burden, either for war or commerce. This is the most interior point in the States to which the re mark can apply, being about two hundred miles from the mouth of the Chesapeake. The James, its great southern rival, rises amid the interior heights of the chain, and after winding through its deep valleys, pur sues a long course S. E. by E. through the heart of Virginia, passing Richmond the capital, and communi cating with Petersburg by its tributary the Appomat- tox. Mr Darby estimates 320 miles of good naviga tion, till it falls into the Chesapeake near the ocean, where it may be recollected was erected Jamestown, the first English settlement in America, now entirely deserted. The two minor yet still considerable chan nels of York and Rappahannock intervene between the greater ones now mentioned. The Patuxent in Maryland is respectable ; and the Patapsco, though flow ing only thirty miles, expands into a bay on which Baltimore is situated, and capable of receiving vessels of 600 tons. The industry of these states is almost purely agricul tural, consisting mainly in the production of very fine wheat and tobacco, which last was originally, and still is, in a great degree peculiar to them. Baltimore is somewhat allied to the north, by considerable manufactures and some fishery ; but this exception does not break the general remark. The mountains contain inexhaustible stores of coal, iron, and salt, and have a share also of the great gold formation ; treasures which are beginning to be turned to account. The following is the amount of the different branches according to the census of 1840 : — Agriculture, §c. — Horses and mules, 435,224 ; neat cattle, 1,307,019 ; sheep, 1,591,647 ; hogs, 2,487,999 ; poultry, value 1,023,820 dollars; wheat, 13,782,811 bushels ; oats, 17,928,429 ; rye, 2,245,003 ; Indian corn, 208 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 44,949,521 ; wool, 3,091,686 Ibs. ; potatoes, 4,193,840 bushels ; hay, 495,210 tons ; tobacco, 100,218,940 Ibs. ; cotton, 3,500,490 ; sugar, 1,578,099 ; lumber, value 770,631 dollars ; iron, cast, 27,703 tons ; bar, 14,235 ; coal, bituminous, 10,844,345 bushels ; salt, 1,747,978 ; gold, value 51,758 dollars. Manufactures. — Woollen, value 488,392 dollars ; leather, 'l, 253,359 dollars ; soap, 4,988,433 Ibs. ; candles, 1,543,955 Ibs. Fisheries, Commerce. — Pickled fish, 153,907 barrels; houses in foreign trade, 108 ; commission houses, 185 ; capital supposed to be invested, 9,023,500 dollars ; re tail houses, 5,910 ; capital, 29,600,223 dollars. Cities and towns, with their population in 1840 : — Columbia. — Washington, 23,364 ; Alexandria, 8459 ; Georgetown, 7312. Virginia.— Richmond, 20,153 ; Petersburg, 11,136 ; Norfolk, 10,920 ; Wheeling, 7885. Maryland. — Baltimore, 102,313 ; Hagerstown, 7197 ; Annapolis (seat of government), 2792. Delaware. — Wilmington, 8367 ; Dover (seat of govern ment), 3790. Washington, as the official capital and seat of govern ment for the whole Union, must claim our first attention. It is a modern city, founded in 1791, upon a regular plan formed by the great man whose name it bears. It extends about four and a half miles along the Potomac, on the Maryland side, with a breadth of two and a-half. The design was similarly uniform with that of Philadel phia, without being quite so monotonous. Ten streets, each 120 to 160 feet broad, were marked out under the name of avenues, — five diverging from the Capitol or house of congress, and five from the residence of the president. They received their names from the different states, while the principal one, called the Pennsylvania, about a mile in length, connected the two great edifices. These were to be crossed by smaller streets, with large open spaces at the intersection. This plan contem plated a great city, which in fact Washington was TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 309 expected to become. The sagacity of its illustrious founder, however, was here deceived. In a country where there is no landed aristocracy, such a capital can only be reared by commerce, which can never here be extensive. The Potomac, though up to this point broad and spacious, rolls above through a mountain- region, where it is very imperfectly navigable, and can never become the channel for any copious produce. That of the Susquehanna and of the Chesapeake shores must always pass through Baltimore. This is not per haps a circumstance to be regretted. The proceedings of congress are likely to be more deliberate and states man-like, when removed from the bustle and excitement of a great city. Of this the States are seemingly con vinced, having fixed their official capitals mostly in secondary, and sometimes in very small towns. In con sequence, however, of the place being laid out on so ex tensive a plan, the inhabitants have located themselves in different quarters, according to taste or accident. Thus the harmony of the original design is completely con cealed, and nothing appears but scattered clusters of houses placed at inconvenient distances. The Capitol, as might be expected, is the finest building in the United States, erected at a cost of upwards of half a million sterling. Its length is 350 feet, depth of wings 121, height to the top of the balustrade 70, of the centre dome 120. The representatives' hall and senate chamber are each of a semicircular form, the one 95 and the other 74 feet long. The former is particularly splendid, supported by pillars of variegated marble from the banks of the Potomac. There is a square in front of 22^- acres, neatly laid out in walks, bordered with shrubs and flowers. The president's house, distant a mile and a half, is a handsome edifice of the Ionic order, com manding a fine prospect. There are also large braidings for official purposes, and an extensive Catholic seminary. Georgetown, separated from Washington only by a creek, and forming really a suburb, contains many good houses and elegant country seats, agreeably situated. 310 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. Alexandria, on the Potomac, six miles below, forms the port, capable of receiving the largest vessels ; but, from the circumstances mentioned as checking commercial progress, has scarcely made any advance since 1820. Baltimore is much the largest city in this division, yield ing only throughout the Union to New York and Phila delphia. Its progress has been singularly rapid, having, in 1790, 13,503 inhabitants, in 1840, *102,313. This rise has been produced by the activity of its merchants attracting to it all the commerce of the Chesapeake and tributary rivers. They have even made vigorous efforts to push a canal and railway communication across the mountains to the Ohio ; but through the errors already pointed out, have fallen much short of that ob ject ; and as the state has adopted the reigning policy of paying neither principal nor interest on its loans, no farther advances of that kind can be expected. The place is well built, with many handsome houses ; the Exchange is a vast edifice, 366 feet in length, and four stories high. The finest erection, however, boasted as superior to any similar one in the Union, is the Monu ment to Washington, 163 feet high, with a statue on the summit. The Battle Monument, celebrating the repulse of the British in 1814, is also of marble, 35 feet in height. The Roman Catholic cathedral is considered by many the finest religious edifice in the Union. The citizens of Baltimore of both sexes are noted as handsome and also hospitable ; even English travellers and severe critics on manners consider theirs as polished and agree able. They are by no means without literary taste, though not in this respect making pretensions to rival the northern capitals. Annapolis, though the seat of government, in a pleasant and healthy situation, is small and not increasing. Virginia, being entirely agricultural, cannot contain any city of the first magnitude, which, in America, can be raised up only by manufactures and extensive com merce. Richmond, however, in a beautiful and healthful situation at the head of the tide-waters of James River, TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 311 affords a, channel for conveying the produce of a very rich district. It derives also importance from being the seat of government for this great state. Its Capitol, a fine edifice on the model of the Maison-carree at Nismes, contains a statue of Washington by Houdon, and ranks second among such structures to that at Wash ington. Petersburg, on the Appomattox, which here admits vessels of 100 tons, is also the market of a fertile territory, with some manufactures. Norfolk, at the mouth of the James, enjoys a considerable trade. Fred- ericksburg, on a smaller scale, carries on that of the Rappahannock. Wheeling, on the opposite side of the mountains, and at the head of the Ohio navigation, may be considered a sort of Virginian Pittsburg. It enjoys the same abundance of coal, and carries on similar manufactures. Delaware, a narrow strip of territory, which circum stances raised to a state, contains Wilmington, a port very agreeably situated, having in its vicinity large flour- mills, and a number of manufacturing establishments, well supplied with water-power. Its schools enjoy a great reputation. Dover, the state capital, is a neat town, but of little importance. The next division, which has been termed that of the extreme south, presents a character very distinct from any of those now described. It is bounded on the north by Virginia ; on the east by the Atlantic ; south by the Gulf of Mexico ; and west by the states of Tennessee, Mississippi, and Louisiana. It consists of Carolina, North and South, Georgia, Alabama, and the territory of Florida. The following may be stated as their statis tical outline : — Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Square Miles. Population in 1840. Carolina, North ........ . South Georgia. 450 275 300 180 200 250 50,000 33,000 62,000 753,419 594,398 691,392 Alabama . 280 160 46000 590,756 Florida 600 150 55,000 54,477 1905 940 246,000 2,684,442 312 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. The seacoast of this region embraces a very extensive circuit, but generally flat, level, shallow, and the navi gation in many places dangerous and difficult. Ala bama has a length of only sixty miles, but with the ad vantage of Mobile Bay, reaching thirty miles inland, with an entrance fifteen feet deep ; yet vessels draw ing more than eight or nine cannot ascend to the port. Florida, a long peninsula dividing the gulf from the ocean, possesses a very great range of coast, but most unfavourable to navigation. Sunken shoals, dangerous reefs, baffling currents, and intricate channels, every where associate with it the idea of peril and wreck. On entering Georgia the Atlantic coast takes a direction almost due north-east, which it follows along the whole of this region, except a small part adjoining Virginia, where it turns north with even a slight divergence westward. This line is very flat, yet broken into con siderable bays and sounds, which from their trifling depth of water, or the rivers falling into them being obstructed by bars, are of little use in navigation. At Cape Lookout, off the coast of South Carolina, begins a continuous range of long, narrow, sandy islands, which with the continent enclose still larger sounds ; those of Albemarle and Pamlico penetrating deep inland. The Alleghany ridge continues here to extend from north to south, with a declination westward, leaving between it and the ocean a continually increasing plain. It terminates however before reaching the Gulf of Mexico, thus rendering Alabama a level surface, to which it forms a background. Its general elevation does not exceed 2000 feet ; yet here, too, recent surveys have discovered peaks rising to a much greater height, and rivalling those of New England. The Roan is stated at 6038 feet, Black Mountain at 6476, both in North Carolina. The declivities of these ranges are in many places finely varied and fertile, enjoying a temperate and delightful climate. Beneath are tracts covered with forests, but in other respects so unpro ductive as in many places to be termed pine barrens. Below is a wide plain bordering the ocean, flat and TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 313 s/mdy, interspersed with extensive swamps. The "Dismal Swamp" covers 150,000 acres in North Carolina, and there are reckoned to be in that state 2,500,000 of the same dreary surface. A similar character marks the rest of the maritime region, though intermixed with some rich bottom lands. Florida, while its interior con tains some pine-covered hills, presents on the coast and in its southern quarter "labyrinths of swamps, hum mocks, ponds, and jungles, — a chaotic medley of land and water." Some of these swampy spots are called sinks, the depth being almost unfathomable, and rivers frequently rising out of them. The rivers of this region are pretty numerous, and have a long course, almost parallel to each other, from the mountains to the ocean and gulf. They pour even into these receptacles large bodies of water ; yet, like most of those flowing through sandy plains, are not navigable for vessels of any considerable burden. The depth is variable, in many places extremely small, and the entrances into the sea obstructed by formidable bars. In North Carolina, the Roanoke, from beyond the Blue Ridge, forms nearly the boundary with Virginia, and falls into Albemarle Sound. Cape Fear River, also of long course, opens into the sea at Wilmington. In South Carolina, the Pedee and Santee are both very considerable, yet liable to the usual obstructions ; whence the smaller streams Ashley and Cooper are of more importance, forming the fine harbour of Charleston. The Savannah in Georgia has a peculiarly direct course from the Alleghany to the haven .of its own name, which, notwithstanding a bar of seventeen feet, can be entered by large vessels, while those of smaller size ascend to Augusta. The Alatamaha and Ogcechee are both large, but from the usual causes of little value in navigation. In Alabama, the river of that name, the Tombigbee, Coosa, and other tributaries, unite to form the Mobile, and this system is navigable to a considerable height for small vessels and steamers. VOL. III. U 314 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. The productive industry of these states is almost entirely agricultural, but of a quite different description from that of the more northern. The staples are rice, and now in a much greater degree cotton. The very defects in the soil favour the production of these articles. A surface moist and easily inundated is necessary for the first, while a light and sandy texture is hest adapted for the other, now become the main basis of American commerce. The long sandy insular range already mentioned produces that species, of unrivalled fineness, called Sea Island cotton. Even the pine region sup plies the States generally with pitch and tar for ship building. There are iron mines, as yet little explored or worked ; but the gold formation, which extends along the whole mountain-border, is of considerable value. The manufactures are very few ; the commerce consists almost entirely in the export of these agricultural pro ductions, and is chiefly managed by New England merchants. The following are the returns by the census of 1840 of the leading articles : — Agriculture, §c. — Horses and mules, 609,259 ; neat cattle, 2T,860,492 ; sheep, 1,208,808 ; hogs, 5,502,556 ; poultry, value, 1,856,113 dollars ; wheat, 5,559,503 bushels ; oats, 7,710,361 ; Indian corn, 81,367,668 ; rice, 76,426,420 Ibs. ; cotton, 406,278,216 ; dairy pro duce, value, 2,145,625 dollars ; gold, 476,147 ; lumber, 1,347,854 ; tar, pitch, £c., 594,536 barrels. Manufactures. — Cotton, value, 1,119,789 dollars ; soap, 3,193,591 Ibs. Commerce. — Foreign houses, 123 ; on commission, 291 ; supposed capital invested, 9,259,862 dollars ; retail houses, 5175 ; capital, 25,976,674 dollars. The following are the cities and towns of this region, with their population in 1840 : — North Carolina. — Wilmington, 4744; Raleigh (seat of government), 2244. South Carolina. — Charleston, 29,261 ; Columbia (seat of government), 4340. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 315 Georgia. — Savannah, 11,214 ; Augusta, 6403 ; Macon, 3927 ; Milledgcville (seat of government), about 2000. Alabama. — Mobile, about 10,000 ; Tuscaloosa (seat of government), about 2000. Charleston may be considered the metropolis, and is in deed the only place deserving the name of a city in all this region. It is described as the handsomest, and what may be termed the most stylish in the Union. A number of the great planters spend here some months of the year, while the interior is sickly and country operations are suspended. Some of the houses have cost £10,000, and are considered by Mr Stuart as de serving the name of palaces. The squares are adorned with beautiful trees, especially that called the Pride of India ; while the houses have in front open piazzas, and are surrounded with parterres containing the multiflora rose and other fragrant flowering shrubs. The ground was originally low and marshy, causing severe visitations of the yellow fever ; but it is now well drained, and much more healthy. The commerce is considerable, consisting in the export of the agricultural produce of all the ad jacent territory. Yet it is remarkable that, alone of all the American cities, it has declined in population during the last ten years— from 30,289 to 29,261. The American writers make no attempt to account for a fact so unique. The decline in the value of the planters' estates may have made them less able to spend here their time and money. The towns of North Carolina scarcely deserve mention. Wilmington, the chief seat of trade, does not contain 5000 inhabitants ; while Raleigh, the state capital, though in a pleasant and airy spot of the interior, is still smaller. More importance attaches to Savannah, the chief town of Georgia, at the mouth of the river of its own name. It extends two miles, adorned with double rows of the Pride of India, most of the houses standing detached and surrounded by gardens. Augusta, at the head of the river navigation, receives and transmits by railways a great quantity of cotton from the west. It is also built in an open style, with little regularity, but 31 6 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. contains a number of handsome houses. Mill edge ville, the state capital, is a small place, agreeably situated about eighty-seven miles to the south-west. Mobile in Alabama, though ancient, was little more than a military post till the rapid advance of the state through the culture of cotton, which is now brought thither in vast quantities down the river. It stands high, and the surrounding marshes having been drained, has become tolerably healthy. Tuscaloosa, the state capital, is, as in other cases, only a large village, agreeably situated in the interior. We must now pass the mountains, and survey a country entirely new, superior in extent and fertility to all that has been hitherto described. The western terri tory, settled only within the last half century, begins to rival the eastern in population and importance, and is making much more rapid progress. Extending pa rallel to the other, from the Lakes to the Mexican Gulf, it includes the same variety of soil and climate, and might similarly admit of a triple arrangement ; but, not to render the delineation too complicated, we shall view it under two divisions,' — the northern, in a temperate climate, and cultivated by freemen ; and the southern, partly or wholly tropical in its temperature and produc tions, and where all the labour is performed by slaves. The former, in a general view, is bounded on the east by the Alleghany, though several of the Atlantic states make encroachments beyond that barrier ; on the north, irregularly by the mighty lakes Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior ; on the south, by the course of the Ohio ; on the west, by the Mississippi ; but the newly formed territory of Iowa extends beyond that river, without any well denned boundary. In the rapidity of its growth, this region is perfectly unparalleled. In 1790, it was estimated to contain 3000 white inhabitants ; in 1840, they had risen to almost 3,000,000. The three states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, stretch in a direct line west of each other. North of the two first lies Michigan, con sisting partly of a peninsula formed by lakes Huron and TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 317 Michigan, partly of another between the latter and Lake Superior. The new territory of Wisconsin fills the in terval between that state and the Mississippi ; while Iowa, stretching beyond that river, claims to reach the Missouri ; but only a small part of this space is yet oc cupied. The following may be given as the present statistical outline of this region ; but the dimensions of the two territories, though equalling or surpassing all the rest, cannot yet be estimated with any precision. Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Square Miles. Population in 1840. Ohio 210 200 45,000 1,519,467 Indiana.. . 275 140 36,500 685,866 350 200 54 000 476 183 Michigan. 250 140 34,900 212,276 Wisconsin 30,945 Iowa 43,111 2,967,848 This division forms one of the most extensive level tracts in the world. There is no height aspiring to the character of a mountain, except in the portion between Lakes Michigan and Superior, little traversed at present except by the hunter. The surface is generally not a dead level, but slightly undulating ; a great part, includ ing nearly all Ohio, being a table-land in some places 1000 feet high, but declining to the westward. The soil is in general densely timbered ; yet a large propor tion, including two-thirds of Illinois, bears that peculiar aspect called by the French prairie, covered with a strong coarse grass, reaching above the human height. The Indians usually set fire to it in winter, and in the following spring it becomes covered with a profusion of the most beautiful and delicate flowers, and also the resort of large birds and wild animals. These grounds usually rise gently from the streams, whose borders, named bottoms, are covered with lofty forests and thick under wood. They have a luxuriant soil, but are in many places marshy and unhealthy. 318 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. This region is destitute of any seacoast, being dis tant from the nearest above 200 miles. In return, nature has bestowed a range of magnificent rivers, without which her otherwise lavish gifts would have been almost in vain. The grand trunk of the Mississippi rolls along the whole western border, fitted to convey produce of every description down to New Orleans. Into this central receptacle falls the noble stream of the Ohio, after traversing the whole region from east to west. It is formed at Pittsburg by the union of the Alleghany and Monongahela, after each has flowed about 300 miles, mostly navigable for boats. A course of 950 miles then follows till its junction with the Mississippi. The channel is navigable throughout one-half the year for large, and the other for small steam-vessels. An interruption by rapids formerly occurred above Louisville, but is now obviated by a canal. Its appearance is very beautiful ; the waters clear, bordered by variegated hills, and diver sified by about a hundred islands. The Kenawha comes to it across the Alleghany from Virginia. Thenceforth it receives a succession of fine rivers, both from the south and the north ; but the latter only belong to our present subject. The chief, in proceeding westward, are the Muskingum, navigable for boats 1 00 miles ; the Scioto, 130 miles ; the Miami, which, though very rapid, may be ascended for 70. The Wabash, a noble stream, crosses Indiana, then separates it from Illinois, and falls in after a course of 600 miles, of which 400 are navigable. In an opposite direction, the Sandusky and the Maumee enter Lake Erie, much aiding the cross navigation from the Ohio. The river of Illinois has a gentle course of 400 miles into the Mississippi. The same description applies to the Wisconsin, flowing 350 miles through the territory, unbroken by falls ; and though of rapid course, tolerably navigable. The same great receptacle draws from the west the Iowa, after a course of similar length, somewhat obstructed, yet navigable by steamers during part of the year for 100 miles. The produce of this country is almost entirely agricul- TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 3 1 9 tural, consisting of the best grains and other articles proper to the temperate climates, with large stocks of domestic animals, particularly hogs. Tobacco has even been introduced, but to no great extent, in Ohio and Indiana. Cultivation is not indeed carried on with costly implements, much science or skill, but rather in that rude hasty style which characterizes new settle ments. The circumstance deserving admiration is the en ergy with which this lately unbroken wilderness has been tamed, its wastes reclaimed, and a certain rough aspect of culture and civilisation spread over the whole. In the wooded lands, generally considered the best, the process of cutting down the trees before any crop can be raised, is very laborious. Much of the prairie soil, however, is excellent, and requires only to be broken up by a very strong plough, drawn by several yoke of oxen. Bitu minous coal and iron abound on the upper Ohio, while the opposite banks of the Mississippi, in Illinois and Iowa, afford inexhaustible stores of lead. There are some few manufactures, chiefly the usual and bulky ones of leather, soap, candles, and spirits. We cannot, with the Americans, class under this head flour and sawn timber. Commerce, however, finds ample scope in sending the surplus inland produce either down the Mississippi, or by the Erie Canal to New York. In the former case, it is transported in peculiar vehicles, and with dangers as great as are incurred in navigating the most stormy ocean. Lakes form in this region a conspicuous feature, though the principal merely range along its border, and have the greater part of their shores in British America. Michigan, however, lies entirely within the States territory. Con nected at its northern extremity with Lake Huron, it stretches southward about 360 miles, with a breadth of from 80 to 100. Its shores are remarkably uniform, with the exception of Green Bay in the north-west, which re ceives Fox River, connected by a short portage with the Wisconsin. Along with Huron, this lake converts the principal part of the state bearing its name into a peniii- 320 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. sula. The chief importance attaches to the southern shore of Lake Erie, as the channel by which the whole region is connected with the Great Canal and New York. Hence the main object of its canals and railways has been to combine this expanse with the Ohio and Mississippi. The following are the returns of the leading articles of produce, according to the census of 1840 : — Agriculture, $c. — Horses and mules, 917,471 ; neat cattle, 2,717,636 ; sheep, 3,218,489 ; hogs, 5,670,780 ; poultry, value 1,333,417 dollars; wheat, 26,480,346 bushels; oats, 28,099,746 ; rye, 1,072,016 ; Indian corn, 88,520,881 ; wool, 5,756,432 Ibs. ; potatoes, 12,119,211 bushels ; hay, 1,544,694 tons ; tobacco, 8,336,700 Ibs. ; sugar, 11,997,516 ; dairy produce, value 3,379,651 dol lars; iron, cast, 36,808 tons; bar, 7486; lead, 24,384,350 Ibs. ; coal, 4,189,636 bushels ; lumber, value 1,632,122 dollars ; skins and furs, 510,1 15. Manufactures, $c. — Woollens, value 764,698 dollars ; cottons, 274,778 ; machinery, 1,084,975 ; hardware, &c., 438,563 ; leather, 3,172,229 ; soap, 5,410,426 Ibs. ; candles, 2,740,412 ; spirits, 10,018,630 gallons ; beer, 2,024,172. Commerce. — Foreign houses, 67 ; commission houses, 365 ; estimated capital, 7,802,200 dollars ; retail houses, 8701 ; capital, 35,179,125 dollars ; ships built, 686,937 dollars. Cities and towns of this region, with their population in 1840 :— Ohio. — Cincinnati, 46,338 ; Cleveland, 6071 ; Dayton, 6067 ; Columbus (state capital), 6048. Indiana. — New Albany, 4226 ; Madison, 3798 ; In dianapolis (state capital), 2692. Illinois. — Chicago, 4470 ; Springfield (state capital), 2579 ; Alton, 2340 ; Galena, 1843. Michigan.— ^ Detroit (state capital), 9102 ; Ypsilante, 2419 ; Pontiac, 1904. Wisconsin— rMilwaukie, 1712 ; Madison (state capi tal), very small. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 321 Iowa. — Iowa (state capital) ; Dubuque, both very small. Cincinnati, the undoubted metropolis of this region, has by its rapid progress excited astonishment even in America. In 1780, the site was an unbroken forest ; but a few years after, with a view to the Indian war, a post called Fort Washington was erected upon it. In 1789, Major Doughty settled there with 140 people, naming it Losantiville. Even in 1800, the population was only 500 ; in 1810, it was 2540 ; since which time it has increased with accelerated rapidity, till it now exceeds 46,000. The streets are on a regular plan, at right angles to each other, with open spaces 396 feet long terminating each, and a large square in the centre. Many of the houses are well built, though only of brick, but painted in different colours ; and of late an orna mented stucco has begun to be employed. The city is divided into an upper and lower part, the latter, when the river rises very high, being exposed to in undation. No proper arrangement is yet made to clear away the masses of rubbish accumulated in the wide open spaces, which give to the city a rough and unfinished appearance. There are twenty-four churches, of which the Second Presbyterian is described as very elegant. The employment consists chiefly in conveying the grain and provisions raised in the territory to and down the Mississippi. The curing of pork is a most extensive trade. There are considerable manufactures of bulky articles, particularly iron, wood, and steam machinery. About 150 large steamers have here been built. There are some other pretty large towns in Ohio. Columbus, which has existed only since 1812, stands almost in the centre of the state, on a very agreeable site near the Scioto. The state-house and the penitentiary recently erected, are handsome. Cleveland, at the junction of the Ohio Canal with Lake Erie, has, through this happy situation, risen rapidly from a small naval 322 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. station to a flourishing port. Dayton, connected with Cincinnati by the Ohio Canal, is also very prosperous. Indiana is still almost entirely a rural territory. New Albany derives some trade from its position on the Ohio ; but it cannot rival Louisville on the Kentucky side, only four miles distant. Indianapolis, the state capital, on the White River, is as yet only a large village ; but from the fertile country round, is expected to flourish. The towns of Illinois deserve notice rather from the great anticipations of their future progress, than from any actually made. Chicago, on Lake Michigan, is the channel by wrhich its produce is conveyed to the great canal. Springfield has an agreeable and central situation in a fine country. Alton, near the junction of the Mis sissippi and Missouri, is expected to become the seat of a great trade, as is also Cairo at the mouth of the Ohio, though only in its infancy. Galena is the capital of the lead district. Michigan has Detroit, on the channel so named, con necting Lakes Huron and Erie. The French founded it in 1670 ; but it continued small, having in 1830 little more than 2000 inhabitants. When, however, the tide of emigration set into the state, Detroit, as a great rendezvous and the seat of the land sales, became the second place in all this region. Flourishing villages are now springing up in the interior. Mackinac, at the junction of Lakes Huron and Michigan, has only about 100 houses, but is the centre of the American Fur Company's operations. Wisconsin and Iowa contain as yet only large villages. Dubuque, in the latter, thrives by its vicinity to the lead- mines. The last division of the United States extends from that now described southward to the Gulf of Mexico. The Southern Atlantic states, separated generally by the barrier of the Alleghany, form its eastern boundary ; while the western is a line drawn nearly through 95° W. long., beyond which is the territory now occupied TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 323 by the Indian emigrant tribes. The climate and pro ductions of this wide tract pass insensibly from those of the south of Europe to others completely tropical. The bold rough enterprising spirit of the west is here de veloped in its fullest extent ; but all the manual labour is performed by slaves. The following may be given as its statistical outline. Length. Miles. Breadth. Miles. Square Miles. Population in 1840. 300 140 40,500 779,828 Tennessee 400 110 45,000 829,210 Missouri 270 220 66,000 383,702 Arkansas 250 240 54,000 97,574 Mississippi 280 160 46,500 375,651 Louisiana 250 200 48,500 352,411 1750 1070 300,500 2,818,376 This region composes, on the whole, one of the most level surfaces on the face of the earth. On the east, in deed, it is bordered by the Alleghany range ; but all the higher peaks are claimed by Virginia and North Carolina, and only some lower spurs and branches stretch into Kentucky and Tennessee. The principal is the range called the Cumberland Mountains. On the opposite side, indeed, of the Mississippi, the Ozark ridge, commencing at the junction of that river with the Missouri, extends across Arkansas into Texas. It is of moderate elevation, not being supposed to contain a summit exceeding 2000 feet. The Mississippi, Missouri, and most of their tribu taries, are bordered by long ranges of those peculiar round heights called bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly to 50 or 100 feet, and bearing much the appearance of natural fortifications. A number have been believed really such, especially as they have evidently been so occupied, and contain numerous bones, as well as arms and other implements of the ancient inhabitants. It has been, however, supposed, that the people, finding these mounds erected by nature, made use of them for purposes of defence and inhabitation. All the territory 324 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. on the inferior course of the Mississippi is extremely low, much of it marshy or liable to inundation. The river, however, in one place, even where above the level of the adjacent country, has formed a singular barrier against itself, called the levee, thrown up by its own alluvium, and protecting the territory beyond from being overflowed. The limestone formation of Kentucky is singularly perforated by subterranean rivers and caverns of extraordinary depth. The mammoth cave has been somewhat variously estimated as to dimensions ; but the visiter is undoubtedly led through several miles of winding passages and spacious apartments, lined with various incrustations. The rivers of this region form one of its most remark able and important features. The great trunk of the Mississippi, and partly that of the Missouri, rolling from north to south through its centre, afford all the advan tages of an inland sea, by which steamers of large dimen sions can ascend to the interior. They receive on each side important tributaries. The principal from the east, however, fall into the Ohio at various distances above its junction with the main stream. These flow from the Alleghany, particularly that branch called the Cumber land Mountains. The Kentucky and Licking are not remarkable for length of course or navigation, but for the singular beauty and fertility of the territory which they water. The Cumberland has a much longer course of 600 miles, whereof 200, up to Nashville, are navigable for steamers. The Tennessee flows mostly through the state of that name, for 1200 miles, above 300 navigable. The waters which from this side fall into the Mississippi itself are much inferior. The Yazoo and the Black rivers have only courses of about 200 miles, with 50 navigable. Those from the west are much larger, and indeed surpassed by few on the globe ; but their streams, leading mostly over sandy and desert tracts, are encumbered by many obstructions, and not navigable for large vessels. The Platte, after flowing at least 1100 miles from the Rocky Mountains, enters the Missouri at the N.W. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 325 point of the state so named. It even pours in during the wet season a vast body of water ; yet for most of the year is fordable through its whole length, while the channel is so wide, shallow, and impeded by sand-banks and islands, as scarcely to afford a passage even for boats. The Kansas has a shorter line of about 600 miles, somewhat more navigable. The Arkansas is the largest of these rivers, its course from the loftiest snow-covered ridges of the Rocky Mountains exceeding 2000 miles ; but it is liable to the usual obstructions, and can with difficulty be ascended by small steamers to Fort Gibson, on the frontier of the state. The Red River rises in the prolongation of the same range through New Mexico, near Santa Fe, and, after flowing above 1 1 00 miles, enters the Mississippi, about 400 above New Orleans. Nearly 200 miles up, and soon after entering Louisiana, it spreads into a multitude of small branches, which being blocked up with trees brought down by the current, form a compact encumbered mass called the Raft, through which a skilful pilot may guide a keel-boat, but which bars all regular navigation. Near the mouth of the Mississippi are some expanses which bear the name of lakes, Pontchartrain, Borgne, &c., but they are only flat shallow bays, connected with the sea by narrow entrances. The industry of this region is agricultural, consisting in the tillage of the soil by the hands of slaves. It is not so uniformly fertile as the one last described, in cluding sandy and marshy tracts of great extent. Yet there is also a large proportion of fertile land, peculiarly adapted to productions for which there exists the most extensive demand. Kentucky and Tennessee yield in perfection wheat and other valuable grains, and their cattle, especially horses, are considered of the best breeds in the Union. They add tobacco on a scale nearly rivalling Virginia and Maryland. In proceeding south ward, cotton becomes the prevailing crop, covering al most the whole country, and becoming the chief staple of southern trade. Lastly, in approaching the Gulf of 326 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. Mexico, sugar is largely produced. Iron is copiously found in Kentucky and Tennessee, and the mineral wealth of Missouri is considered almost inexhaustible ; but only the lead-mines have been as yet rendered much available. Manufactures can scarcely be said to exist ; yet the most common are found on a small scale in Kentucky and Tennessee. Commerce, carried on down the Mis sissippi and by New Orleans, consists entirely in the export of cotton, tobacco, and some other produce, bring ing in return manufactures and imported luxuries. The foreign part is chiefly carried on by the merchants and shipping of New England and New York. The following are the returns, under the principal heads, in the census of 1 840 : — Agriculture, S$c. — Horses and mules, 1,193,881 ; neat cattle, 3,237,055 ; sheep, 2,366,441 ; hogs, 8,225,788 ; poultry, value, 2,176,564 dollars ; wheat, 10,712,794 bushels ; oats, 17,392,129 ; Indian corn, 126,126,613 ; wool, 3,698,866 Ibs. ; potatoes, 6,501,272 bushels ; to bacco, 92,406,988 Ibs. ; cotton, 380,499,442 ; sugar, 121,860,100 ; lumber, value, 853,807 dollars ; skins and furs, 435,191 ; lead, 5,295,455 Ibs. ; iron, cast, 46,914 tons ; bar, 14,794. Manufactures, $c. — Cotton, value, 675,743 dollars ; hats, caps, &c., 429,002 ; leather, 1,634,108 ; soap, 5,671,774 Ibs. ; candles, 4,461,595 ; spirits, 3,696,239 gallons. Commerce, §c. — Foreign houses, 62 ; commission- houses, 599 ; capital supposed to be invested, 20,397,200 dollars ; retail houses, 7307 ; capital, 45,812,091 dollars. The following are the principal cities and towns, with their population by the census of 1840 : — Louisiana. — New Orleans (capital), 102,193. Mississippi.— Natchez, 4800 ; Vicksburg, 3104. Tennessee.— Nashville, 6929 ; Memphis, 2000. Kentucky. — Louisville, 21,210 ; Lexington, 6997 ; Frankfort (state capital), 1917. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 327 Missouri. — St Louis, 15,000; Jefferson (state capital), very small. Arkansas. — Little Rock (state capital) ; Arkansas, mere villages. New Orleans, 105 miles above the mouth of the Mississippi, is the only great city in this region, and one of the chief emporia of commerce in America. Under this head its transactions and position have been already described. Founded in 1717, under the regency of the Duke of Orleans, and named from him, it was in 1762 ceded to Spain, from which power we have seen it ex torted by Napoleon and sold to the States. Prior to that time, it remained a very small place, containing in 1800 only between 5000 and 6000 inhabitants. Since, however, it became the emporium of the new states formed in the west, its progress has been such as to appear astonishing even in America ; its population in 1840 having exceeded 102,000. A great proportion, however, is of a floating description, composed of mer chants from New York and other northern cities, who hope to raise a fortune by commercial transactions, and then return home. Hence the style of its old possessors still prevails, and a traveller is struck with the narrow streets, the high houses ornamented with tasteful cornices and iron balconies, with many other circumstances peculiar to towns in France and Spain, pointing out the past history of this city, fated to change its masters so often. Many houses are fancifully ornamented with coloured stucco. The city forms a crescent of about three miles around a great bend of the river, and stretches about half a mile inland. The ground being not only quite flat, but even beneath the level of the water when in flood, is only protected from inundation by a levee or embankment, sometimes broken through, but easily repaired. More than half the population, including all the labouring class, are black or coloured, the latter usually named quadroons. The most respectable and opulent inhabitants, being only temporary residents, have not bestowed much pains in 328 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. ornamenting or improving the city, which contains no very remarkable edifice. The churches are fewer in number, and the Sabbath less reverently observed, than usual in America ; though benevolent institutions are said to be well supported. Many of the inhabitants are respectable ; yet a large proportion consists of gamblers, adventurers, swindlers, and other disreputable characters. The low site, surrounded with marshes, makes it at some seasons very unhealthy ; but improvements are forming in this respect. Mississippi contains Natchez, the celebrated seat of the temple and chief of the sun, and where the natives had reached a higher civilisation than was general in North America. Standing partly on a bluff, it is tolerably salubrious, and has a nourishing commerce, being reached even by vessels from the sea. Vicksburg, sixty miles higher up, carries on a great river-trade. Tennessee is almost entirely rural ; yet Nashville, its capital, is a handsome and agreeable country town, with an esteemed university. Memphis, from its site on the Mississippi, has some trade, and is the projected termina tion of the great railway lines from Carolina and Georgia. Kentucky, too, is mostly rural ; yet Louisville, on the Ohio, above the great falls, has attained a share of the same commerce which made Cincinnati so prosperous. It has derived great additional advantage from the Port land Canal, by which these obstructions are avoided. There is one fine street of a mile long. The edifice reared for a free public school is as handsome in its struc ture as laudable in its object. Lexington, the chief interior city, is delightfully situated in a fine country. Its university holds the first place among western col legiate institutions, especially the medical school ; the libraries contain 15,000 volumes. The society is con sidered the most polished and agreeable of any in the western cities. Yet, according to prevailing usage, the seat of government has been transferred to a large village named Frankfort, on the Kentucky, where there is a handsome marble state-house. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 329 Missouri, though, recently settled, contains already St Louis, an old French station, now raised to import ance by its situation on the Mississippi, at the highest point to which steamers of the first magnitude can ascend. It is also the station whence the fur- traders set out for the westward. The place is agreeably situated on a hill rising from" the river. The Roman Catholic cathedral is particularly handsome, with a fine set of bells ; and there is a large university under the management of the Jesuits.- — Arkansas contains as yet nothing beyond villages. VOL. III. 330 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER VII. Emigration to the United States. General Remarks— Early Western Settlements — Boone— Hen derson — Obstacles during the War — Acquisition of Ohio — Early Sales of Land — New Plan in 1804 — Embarrassments under it — Change in 1820 — Amount since sold — Purchases on Speculation — Impositions practised— Squatters— Settle ment on improved Farms— Comparison of different States — Sales in each — Advantages of improved Districts— British America and the States— Timbered Land and Prairie — Modes of Conveyance Westward — By Waggon — By Canals and Railways — Employment for Operatives — Wages in dif ferent Trades. Uis7DER no aspect does the Western World appear more interesting to the nations of Europe than in that of Emigration. Their dense population, and the long- fixed tenure of property, has produced a numerous class who are exposed to a certain degree of destitu tion. None but the decidedly opulent can hope to enjoy any landed possession ; even the earning of a scanty subsistence by the sweat of the brow is some what precarious ; and in the case of those temporary stagnations to which the different branches of industry are so liable, the distress becomes very severe. In America, on the contrary, large tracts of the finest land can be obtained in full property for a very small price, sometimes even gratuitously ; while the remu neration of manual labour is much more liberal. Those therefore who can make the sacrifices, and overcome the difficulties incident to so great a change, will, by a removal thither, improve their own condition, and at the same time mitigate the pressure produced by competition on the market for labour at home. EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 331 There are two fields in the west open to emigrants from Europe, particularly from this country. These are British America and the United States. In another work belonging to the present series,* the former sub- ject has been treated carefully and in considerable detail. An attempt is there made to estimate the compar ative prospects of the emigrant to each region ; but there is still room to consider the latter subject in a complete and connected view. The reader who wishes more ample details may find them in the work to which we have just referred. It is only since 1769 that settlements began to be formed in that region west of the Alleghany, to which emigration now is almost exclusively directed. With the exception of a few posts held by the French, and some parties of their coureurs de bois or hunters, who traversed the territory in search of furs, it was one wild waste of forest and prairie, occupied only by some scat tered clusters of Indian wigwams. In that year the ground was broken by Daniel Boone, a choice spirit, •who, cultivating a farm on the Yadkin in North Ca rolina, felt himself impelled to a more adventurous life. He and five companions set out, and passing over very rugged tracts, crossed the mountain-steeps, and on the 7th June reached the banks of the Red River of Kentucky. Mounting a height, they saw stretching before them that wide and beautiful forest- plain, traversed by vast droves of buffaloes. The woods exhibited a beautiful variety of foliage, intermingled with fruit-trees in blossom or bearing, and with elegant flowering shrubs. The adventurous band were here completely at home, the gun supplying at once ex quisite sport and a luxurious banquet. The Indians, however, ill brooked this first inroad into their hitherto undisturbed domain, and seemed to have a presentiment that it would prove fatal to their name and nation. ~* Historical and Descriptive Account of British America (Edinburgh Cabinet Library). 332 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. They formed an ambush, into which Boone fell, and had the prospect of becoming a victim to their wonted cruelties. He contrived, however, to escape, was joined by his brother, and continued to rove delighted through this enchanted region. He determined even to make it his permanent abode, and in September 1773, broke up from the Yadkin with his own and five other families, who were joined by forty others. Notwithstanding some loss from an attack by the Indians, they accom plished their settlement. These proceedings attracted the notice of General Dunmore, governor of Virginia, who appointed a com mission to survey the country, engaging Boone to accompany them. This examination was executed in the course of sixty-two days, and extending over a circuit of 800 miles, conveyed a tolerably complete idea of this fine territory. The revolutionary contest, however, quickly ensuing, drew the attention both of the British and native governments to more urgent objects ; and private enterprise again took the lead. Nathaniel Henderson, who was born of humble parents, and had not received even the elements of education, supplied the deficiency by his own industry, and having applied to the bar, rose to eminence and became a judge. He threw up, however, these advantages to embark in a bolder and more adventurous career. He loaded ten waggons with coarse woollens, spirits, and toys, the articles best suited for Indian traffic. These he conveyed across the Alle- ghany, and met with Boone, who readily agreed to second his views. In March 1775, a general meeting of the Cherokees was obtained at Wataga ; and for the above valuable considerations they made over to him a terri tory of 100 square miles on the Kentucky and Ohio, equal for beauty and fertility to any in the world. Then, by liberal grants of land, he invited emigrants from all countries, composed for them a code of laws, and conducted himself rather as a sovereign than a planter. Such proceedings were deemed scarcely consistent with the duties of a subject ; and the transaction, though EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 333 held good in respect to the Indians, was disallowed as regarded his tenure ; but in compensation for his exer tions, he received a grant of 200,000 acres. . During the continuance of the revolutionary war, the settlement went on slowly, in the face of a most formidable opposition from the Indian nations, who were seconded by the British power. Even the passage of the Alleghany was formidable, when there existed no road practicable for a waggon of any description. The emigrants were obliged to travel on foot or on horse back, and wait on the other side till a caravan could assemble sufficient to defend itself from attack. On the termination of the contest, however, the great tide be gan, which has ever since continued to flow across the Alleghany, producing a growth of states the most rapid ever known in any community. Before 1790, all Ken tucky had been occupied, and the Indian nations driven north of the Ohio. They, however, easily crossed the river, and made cruel and desolating inroads, which were as fiercely retaliated, rendering it difficult to say which party were the aggressors. The United States government, after fruitless attempts to negotiate a peace, were involved in that long and severe contest, the events of which have been related (vol. ii. p. 137, &c.). After some serious reverses, the victory of Wayne led to the treaty of Greenville, which included an extensive ces sion of land on very moderate terms. Since that time successive conquests and purchases have placed the government in possession of immense tracts, exceeding in extent, and likely soon to exceed also in population, the original domain of the Union. There remained a difficulty connected with the powers of the general government. The whole of this new territory had been considered as belonging to the eastern states, each claim ing the part which extended from its western frontier to the Mississippi. It appeared desirable, however, that the whole should be placed under one management, and made independent of the old divisions. The states were therefore induced to cede their respective shares to the 334 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. central administration, on which then devolved the task of disposing of this immense mass of landed property, and of establishing new governments in the west. It was some time before any fixed or eligible plan was matured for so great an operation. The first con templated appears to have been the sale of large lots to wealthy individuals or companies ; a course very little suited to the circumstances of the country or the public advantage. In 1787, the Ohio Company, formed at New York, purchased from congress a million and a half of acres ; while in 1789, a Mr Symmes contracted for a million between the Great and Little Miami. These transactions proved very unsatisfactory ; the company's dealings, especially with European pur chasers, were scandalously fraudulent ; while Symmes was able only partially to fulfil his engagement. Yet the first act of the legislature was to prohibit the sale, unless in very special cases, of any portion containing less than 4000 acres. In 1790, Mr Hamilton made a report, proposing to grant spots of 100 acres to actual settlers, for ready money, at thirty cents per acre. Other locations might be of 500 acres each ; but the land generally was to be laid out in sections of ten miles square, and no credit to be given for any less extent. This system gave little satisfaction, and few sales were effected. In 1799, General Harrison started the idea of selling in sections and half- sections of 640 and 320 acres. In the course of the next two or three years, earnest petitions were presented for this and other modifications of the system. On 10th May 1804, an act was passed, placing the arrangement nearly on the footing upon which it has since continued. All lands were subjected to a survey based upon true meridians drawn through each state, which by parallel lines at right angles was por tioned out into districts of six square miles, and sections of one mile, or 640 acres. This last was subdivided into quarters of 160 acres, and these again into smaller divisions of eighty and forty. One section in each district was reserved for schools ; and at the formation of each new EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 335 state or territory, one township, or 23,040 acres, was appropriated to the support of seminaries of learning of a high class. The lands were to be offered for public sale at a minimum price of two dollars per acre, one- fourth to be paid down, the rest by three annual instal ments ; eight per cent being deducted for immediate payment. Under this law, the settlement of the western country went on with rapidity, and by September 1812, there had been sold 4,280,685 acres, for which had been received 6,572,226 dollars. The expenses of survey had been 402,668 dollars ; sale and collection, 247,737 ; boards and officers, 209,933 ; various, 84,985 ; in all, 945,323 dollars. The levying of the instal ments, however, as they became due, was found to be a task more and more difficult. The periods allowed were in fact too short to enable the purchaser to clear the ground, support himself, and realize the sum of money out of his produce. When it became necessary to grant indulgence to one, it could not easily be refused to others. As grain and cattle became more abundant, their money-price fell, and the expense of conveyance over rough mountain-roads, without any of the facilities recently created, absorbed the greater part of their value. There was abundance of produce ; but it could not be converted into money, the attempt to raise which by means of local banks, themselves unsound, aggravated the evil, adding bank debts to land debts. The result was, that by the year 1819, the greater part of the western lands was in a state of forfeiture for non-payment of arrears. To have ejected a whole nation, however, was scarcely possible, and must at all events have been attended with a fearful extent of calamity. Government had no option but to agree to a compromise. The credit was lengthened to a number of the holders, while others were allowed to resign a portion of their lands in satisfaction of the debt. Thus it is supposed that in the course of eight years, the greater part of the sums due were in one way or other recovered. 336 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. The conclusion, however, drawn from this course of transactions was, that the sale of land at all on credit by government was altogether inexpedient. The price was therefore reduced to a dollar and a quarter, but the whole was required to be paid up before possession was given. Under this system, an immense and, till lately, always increasing quantity has been sold. From the earliest period down to the 30th September 1838, it amounted to 77,134,821 acres, for which had been paid 108,875,163 dollars (above £23,000,000 sterling). In 1836 alone the sales rose to 20,074,870 acres, price 25,167,833 dollars (about £5,500,000). This was doubtless a year of excessive speculation, and they have never nearly reached the same amount. It was for Acres. Dollars. 1837 5,601,103 7,007,523 1838 3,414,907 4,305,564 1839 4,976,382 6,464,556 1840 2,236,889 2,789,637 1841 1,164,796 1,463,364 2 of 1842 859,031 1,079,366 It does not however follow, from reasons to be pre sently stated, that this great decrease of sale was attended with a corresponding diminution of emigration and settlement. The system of purchase on a large scale had at first been very unsuccessful. The arrangements of 1804 and 1820 were made on the supposition of each emi grant going to the land-office, purchasing the quantity wanted, and settling upon it ; and this accordingly con tinued for many years to be the regular course. But when money had accumulated, and a peculiar spirit of mercantile enterprise been kindled, a tempting range was here opened to them. The capitalist purchases a large block, which he breaks down into lots suited to intending settlers. He forms roads or other communications, by which they maybe in some shape connected with a market. He selects the most convenient and agreeable site for a village, lays out the ground, removes obstructions, erects EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 337 a mill, a store, and an inn. By these accommodations, the emigrant is placed in a situation so much more eligible that he can well afford to make a very considerable advance on the original price. Thus the arrangement, if carried out regularly and honestly, affords a valuable benefit to the one party, and a legitimate source of profit to the other. Unfortunately, amid the wild spirit of speculation which lately seized the Union, and the laxity of principle that too often accompanied it, both these being carried to excess in the west, the transaction assumed a very sinister character. The grossest decep tions were practised on the inexperienced emigrants from the eastward, who at the principal town of the district found speculators exhibiting in the most flat tering light spots to be disposed of. A cluster of huts is represented as a city with spacious streets and squares and every accommodation of civilized life. According to Mrs Clavers, " when lots were to be sold, the whole fair dream was splendidly emblazoned on a sheet of super-royal size ; things which only floated before the mind's eye of the most sanguine, were portrayed with bewitching minuteness for the delectation of the ordi nary observer. Majestic steamers plied their paddles to and fro upon the river; ladies crowding their decks, and streamers floating on the wind. Sloops dotted the harbours, while noble ships were seen in the offing. Mills, factories, and lighthouses, — canals, railroads, and bridges, all took their appropriate positions. Then came the advertisements, choicely worded and carefully vague, never setting forth any thing which might not come true at some time or other ; yet leaving the buyer without excuse if he chose to be taken in. — The auc tioneer, on such occasions, must be a man of genius, of ready invention, of fluent speech ; one who had seen something of the world, and above all one who must be so thoroughly acquainted with the property, that he could vouch on his own personal respectability for the truth of every statement. He must be able to exhibit certificates from — no matter whom — Tom-a-Nokes per- 338 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. haps — but ' residing on the spot,' and he must find men of straw to lead the first bids. And when all this had been attended to, it must have required some nerve to carry the matter through ; to stand by, while the poor artisan, the journeyman mechanic, the stranger who had brought his little all to buy government land to bring up his young family upon, staked their poor means on strips of land which were at that moment a foot under water." From such statements, it sufficiently appears how necessary it is for the emigrant to be most strictly on his guard, and never expend his funds upon any property which he has not personally and carefully inspected. From this mode of settlement, we may perceive why the great reduction on the government sales since 1836 might take place, without emigration having actually diminished. In that extravagant year, when " every one was buying land, and nobody cultivating it," a quantity was accumulated in the hands of speculators, which successive years were required to clear off. Another course, too, always practised, has come into increasing favour. He who, with his single arm and axe, dares to encounter the unbroken forest, does not usually trouble the land-office with any inquiry, but hies on to locate himself on some spot in the depth of the woods. A law was passed prohibiting this species of occupation, but it has never been enforced, and the state now rather favours it as a pioneer to one more regular. Repudiating, there fore, the long-established name of squatters, they claim to be classed as settlers ; and it is viewed as odious in any one to purchase the lands of which they are thus in possession. They are expected, however, on the ap proach of settlement, either to buy the land with the fruits of this furtive culture, for which they are allowed a right of pre-emption, or else to retire, after having sold their improvements and their imperfect claim to a new comer. There is a class of settlers who, on different grounds, decline any connexion with the land-office. Possessing EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 339 a certain amount of property, they wish to establish themselves at once in some degree of comfort, and not to encounter all' the gloom and privations of forest life. On reaching one of the earliest settled new states, Ohio for instance, they find farms, the owner of which, having held them for a number of years, has cleared and cultivated thirty or forty acres, erecting a tolerable mansion and offices. He is now willing to sell his pre sent property at from five to ten dollars an acre, and remove to some region farther west, where the proceeds will purchase a much larger quantity of land, on which his intrepid toil may in time bestow equal value. This is particularly convenient for those who have families newly grown up, and can thus at once provide them with farms as large as that of their father. Meantime, the wealthier emigrant must carefully survey the offered purchase, to ascertain its value, and particularly that the land be not in an exhausted state, to which, from the neglect of manure, it is too often reduced. Under this view, we may discover a gradation of settlements, from the most improved districts to those wild outer tracts, called in Canada the bush. The former are adapted to those who own more or less of capita], the other to such as, with scanty funds, feel gifted with hardihood and the spirit of adventure. Under the first view, Ohio, and next to it Indiana, are the most favourable ; Michigan and Illinois may be considered as bush territories ; Iowa and Wisconsin as extra bush. The following statement of lands sold annually in each, beginning with 1836, will show the estimate made by those on the spot, who were likely to be best informed, though, no doubt, considerable variations are visible. The transactions in the southern slave-states are also shown, though it is not presumed that any British settler will there make his selection : 340 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 1836. 1837. 1838. 1839. 1840. 1841. fof 1842. States, &c. Acres. Acres. Acres. Acres. Acres. Acres Acres. Ohio 1,282,992 470,421 243,096 242,445 33,059 43,614 23,160 Indiana... 3,245,344 1,249,818 602,425 618,748 118,869 93,883 41,027 Illinois. .. 3,199,709 1,012,849 778,560 1,132,876 389,275 335.5")3 386,415 Michigan.. 4,189.823 773,522 97,534 134,984 26,106 18,168 16,971 Wisconsin 646,134 178,783 87,256 650,723 127,798 101,731 88,929 Iowa 274,605 298,152 567,882 73,673 37,275 Missouri . . 1,655,688 663,988 510,423 1,038,066 572,498 269,472 109,058 Alabama.. 1,901,409 381,774 159,969 121.936 56,785 50,705 73,924 Mississippi 2,023,710 256,354 271,075 17.787 19,175 21,636 27,150 Louisiana. 879,450 230,953 164,178 509,307 189,229 95,112 33,482 Arkansas . 963,535 281,915 156,972 154,859 110,610 54,861 18,455 Florida . . . 87,072 100,726 68,814 56,500 25,603 6,389 3,187 20,074,872 5,601,103 3,414,907 4,976,383 2,236,889 1,164,797 859,031 The advantages of a settlement in improved districts are not confined to the mere facilities of the first estab lishment. There is a comparative nearness to markets, and consequently higher prices obtained for produce of every description. Assistance is somewhat less difficult to procure, and cultivation can thus be managed on a greater scale ; while the bush settler has scarcely any thing to depend upon but his personal exertions. Again, all the luxuries of life, and the finer manufactures, having a surer vent, and not being burdened with so long a conveyance, can be had of more choice quality and at lower rates. While the bush, therefore, is best adapted to the labouring emigrant, who seeks only an abundance of the necessaries of life ; for the wealthier class, the other situation is not only more agreeable, but more economical and profitable. These remarks may afford the means of comparison between British America, particularly Upper Canada, and the Western United States. The latter, with the ex ception, in some degree, of Ohio, lie much deeper in the interior, and thus more completely in the bush. Their produce hence brings a lower price, that of grain in Illinois being, according to Mr Shirreff, only about half what it is worth in Canada. Manufactured goods are loaded, not only with a longer carriage, but with a heavy tariff on imported articles, which include all the EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 341 finer fabrics. In Canada, too, emigrants from Britain meet their countrymen, and perhaps personal connexions ; probably they find a tone of society more congenial to their taste. The case may be different with those whose political sentiments are decidedly republican. Another choice to be made by the emigrant is be tween timbered land and prairie. The former has com monly the deepest and richest soil, while the latter wears a somewhat arid aspect ; yet, when broken up, it is usually found abundantly fertile. It has then the ad vantage that, while the cutting down of the forest is a most laborious task, and, when performed by hired labour, costs three or four pounds an acre, the prairie soil requires only to be broken up by a very strong plough with a broad share, drawn by six oxen, which, according to Mr Shirreff, costs only two dollars an acre. The deficiency, however, of timber for fences and build ings is much felt, rendering the interior of the great prairies scarcely fit for settlement. This description of land is found chiefly, and to a great extent, in Illinois ; while Michigan, though not destitute of it, is distin guished by a dense growth of timber. It will be seen by the above table, that the taste of emigrants has been directed almost equally, yet with some fluctuations, to these two quarters. Of the territories recently formed, Wisconsin resembles Michigan, while Iowa has a share of those immense prairies that extend west of the Mississippi. Besides the choice of site, however, the emigrant has also to consider the mode of conveying himself thither in the cheapest and most commodious manner. Having probably no superabundance of ready money, and being likely to meet many claims upon it, while the returns will be slow, there is an obvious prudence in using the most economical conveyance consistent with health and any degree of comfort. He is advised to take with him light and valuable articles, which are found in the west with difficulty and at high prices. Large and heavy pieces of furniture are easily procured there, while their conveyance would be costly. The emigrants from the 342 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. old states, chiefly younger sons of farmers, have been accustomed to construct a large waggon of light mate rials, sufficient to contain all they wish to transport, which they drive themselves, and thus incur no expense but for food and shelter on the road. M. Roux de Rochelle has drawn, seemingly from personal observa tion, a lively picture of this progress. — (See vignette title-page.) " Figure a young cultivator recently married to a maiden of his choice. Both depart for the countries of the west after having received the paternal benediction. A vast car bears all the treasures which are to aid in their establishment ; the axe and the saw, implements for domestic use and for cultivating the soil. Grain is provided for the first sowing, and for subsistence till harvest. Cages full of domestic fowls crown this con fused equipage ; and the young wife, moving on her throne as the queen of the future colony, sings the pleasures of her childhood, her conjugal attachment, or her hopes of the future. Her husband, with the mus ket on his shoulder, guides the march of the triumphal car, which drags, attached to its train like so many slaves, the ram, the bull, the courser, young and power ful animals. Others walk at large ; but the dog, who has them under his charge, like a faithful servant, urges their steps, keeps them together, and seconds by his vigilance the cares and toils of his master." Mr Birk- beck, more than twenty years ago, saw the roads so crowded with such parties, that old America seemed to him to be breaking up, and moving to the westward. The young farmer who, with his own hands, and from materials on his father's ground, can construct such a waggon, still finds this the most economical plan, and fears not to encounter its hardships. For all others, and especially Europeans, the great system of canals and railroads affords means of transport more comfortable and perhaps more economical. The main line is from New York by the Hudson and Great Canal. From that city to Albany, 150 miles, passengers are conveyed in the EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 343 short period of ten hours, and at a varying hut always moderate rate, sometimes not exceeding a dollar. Those of an humble class may with their baggage be conveyed still cheaper by the tow-boats. Albany can now be reached also by railway from Boston, a still quicker mode, but of course somewhat dearer. From Albany to Buffalo on Lake Erie there is an almost continuous railway, which affords the speediest and most agreeable course ; but a less costly one may be obtained by the Great Canal. There are here two descriptions of vessels, one called packet-boats, which make the voyage in between three and four days, charging three and a half cents per mile, or ten dollars in all, including board. The other, called the line-boats, spend seven days on the passage, charging two cents per mile, or one without provisions. These can be had very cheap, as the passengers may land at various points, and find little stores where they are sold. To those going the whole way, and still more with fami lies, an abatement is usually made. From Buffalo steamers convey the emigrant to vari ous points on Lakes Erie, Huron, or Michigan, according to the state whither he is going. The leading stations are Cleveland, for Ohio, 195 miles ; Sandusky, for In diana, 260 ; Detroit, for Michigan, 330 ; Green Bay, for Wisconsin, 750; Chicago, for Illinois, 900. The fare to Detroit is eight dollars, and four on deck ; for the other quarters nearly in similar proportion to the distance, except to the more remote points, where it is somewhat higher from there being less trade and com petition. Abatement will also be made for a family, and a large quantity of baggage allowed. From Cleve land, the Ohio Canal affords conveyance to every part of the state, and all places on the river. The fares are nearly the same as on the Erie, though they are more variable, and care is required in making a bargain. There is another line from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, 394 miles, by the canal and railroad route already described. The expense by stage is fifteen dollars, the charge on ICO Ibs. of baggage only one dollar. It is not 344 EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. yet, however, much frequented by foreigners. Some advise the emigrant to sail for New Orleans, whence he may easily be transported to any point on the Missis sippi or its tributaries. This route is circuitous, but requires only one change of conveyance at the port above named, where it can be cheaply and expeditiously made. The fares vary much, and the bad practice pre vails of fixing them by special agreement. Mr Thomson states, that in the winter of 1841-2, the rate between New Orleans and Pittsburg, 1977 miles, wasonlyfrom fifteen to twenty-five dollars, and he travelled between the former place and Cincinnati on deck for four dollars without provisions, which were purchased for one dollar and a half. The deck is protected from the weather, but has no other convenience. Labourers and mechanics also in every part of the States obtain employment at a rate of wages consider ably higher than at home. They encounter, however, difficulties and drawbacks. A peculiar mode of work ing prevails, to which they must learn to conform. Con stant activity and energy are required, and a great deal of work must be put through their hands, though the execution need not be very delicate. In consequence of the high wages, the modes both of living and dressing are expensive. The extreme cheapness of spirits affords a temptation to excessive indulgence, which the masters do not excuse, as their own workmen, though addicted to their too frequent use, seldom carry it to intoxication. A late emigrant of this class gives the following state ment of the tradesmen in demand, and the wages to each ; the latter we suspect too high. At the end of 1836, a rise was given after an obstinate strike, but rather perhaps through the speculative excitement then reigning, and probably not supported during the severe depression which followed. Bricklayers, much employment from the general substitution of this material for wood, 6s. 3d. a-day. Masons, stone-cutters, carpenters, good, nearly same wages. EMIGRATION TO THE UNITED STATES. 345 Painters, much, both inside and outside of houses and ships, 7s. 3d. Cabinet-makers, much, but low wages, about 5s. 4d. Smiths, good, about 8s. ; tinplate, 6s. 3d. Shoemakers, tailors, and hatters, large and good, about 6s. 3d. Curriers and leather-dressers, much in request, but at low wages, about 5s. Saddlers, trunk and coach makers, turners, carvers, gilders, good. Shipwrights, 8s. ; wheelwrights, 7s. 4d. ; machinists, 9s. Superintending engineers, not much esteemed. A more recent emigrant states the employment in cotton and woollen manufactures as good at 4s. 2d., and perhaps this is as high as can now be reasonably ex pected, unless in the most skilled trades. Surer em ploy and higher wages may be had in the southern cities; but hard labour there is trying to the health, unless in an excursion during the winter months. In the west, wages are good and living cheap ; but the occupation is not so steady. Canals and railways, which some years ago afforded extensive employment, mostly to Irish emigrants, are nearly quite suspended. Almost the only field for this class of labourers is now in British America. VOL. III. 346 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. CHAPTER VIII. Concluding Historical Sketch. Object proposed — State of America after the War — Transac tions with the Barbary States— Election of Monroe— State of Parties under him — Disputes with Spain — Cession of Florida— Question of Slavery in Missouri — South American Republics acknowledged— Tariff of 1824— Presidency of Quincy Adams— Tariff of 1828— Presidency of Jackson —His Policy — Veto on a National Bank — North-West Indian War — Carolina resists the Tariff— Compromise — Jackson re-elected — Measures against the Bank — Plan for Removal of the Indians — Seminole War — Treaty with Franco — Finances — State of Parties — Van Buren President — Great Financial Embarrassment— Civil War in Canada— Disturb ances on the Frontier — Boundary Dispute— Election of Har rison — His Death— Tyler President— His Measures — Offends the Whig Party— Arrest of Macleod— His Acquittal— Dis turbances in Rhode Island — State of Parties — Repudiation by the States — Finances — Oregon Question. IN a former part of the work, the history of the United States has been brought down to the close of the last war with Britain in 1814. The subsequent events have been less prominent, and their narration is subject to all the disadvantages of cotemporary history. It cannot rest either upon official documents or authentic me moirs, but is necessarily drawn from ephemeral sources, tinctured with party spirit and the passions of the mo ment. Yet a connected outline of prominent and ascer tained facts may gratify the reader, who recollects them perhaps only as they occurred, in a detached shape, losing sight of their succession and mutual bearing. The Americans, as above shown, had terminated the CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 347 war, resigning all their objects in undertaking it, yet preserving their territory and resources undiminished. They had, however, contracted a debt of 81 millions of dollars, in addition to a previous one of 39 millions, making in all 120 (nearly £30,000,000 sterling). This was independent of some farther claims which it would be necessary to liquidate. A reduction of the large war establishment was deemed indispensable, yet with out bringing it so extremely low as formerly under Jefferson ; the fortifications commenced along the At lantic coast were to be completed ; and measures taken to maintain and even strengthen the navy. The miserable state of the currency showed the necessity of a new national bank, which was accordingly chartered on the footing formerly mentioned. The states of Barbary, especially Algiers, taking ad vantage of the British war, had recommenced their piracies, and advanced anew demands of tribute. The American government now determined to chastise this conduct, and sent two successive squadrons, under Decatur and Bainbridge. The former arrived first, scoured the Mediterranean, and captured two Alge- rine ships of war ; then presenting himself before the city, he intimidated the Dey into a treaty, ma king satisfaction for former outrages, and withdrawing all future claim for tribute. A visit to Tunis and Tripoli produced results equally satisfactory. Bain- bridge then arrived, and as the superior officer, took the command ; but all had been already done. He merely appeared again before the cities, and finding every thing in a satisfactory state, withdrew. Yet the Dey next year assumed a hostile attitude, alleging an infraction of the treaty, and resuming the demand of tribute. On a determined answer being returned, he withdrew these pretensions. Mr Madison's second term of office having expired in March 1817, he followed the example of Washington and Jefferson, and declined standing a third time. His party brought forward Monroe, long an eminent diplomatist, 348 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. and who had acted under him as secretary. The federals put forward Mr Rufus King of New York ; but he had the votes only of Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Dela ware, all the other states being unanimous for his op ponent, who was thus elected by 183 to 34 ; Mr Tomp- kins of New York being made vice-president. Monroe, as we have seen, had commenced his career as a fiery republican, even of the French school ; but age and ex perience had cooled his ardour. He made it even a study to abate that violence of political zeal which had agitated the nation, and succeeded so remarkably, that his administration displayed an internal tranquillity and harmony, of which there has been no example either before or since. His party indeed, from causes already noticed, had adopted protection to manufactures, and a national bank, the two favourite objects of the commer cial interest, who having obtained these, willingly ac quiesced in the name of democrat, renouncing even that of federal, which had ceased to have any hold of the popular feeling. The attention of the cabinet was now anxiously di rected towards obtaining possession of Florida. That province was so enclosed within the States' territories, and so necessary for completing their outline, that its possession by Spain was an uneasy and inconvenient circumstance. This power, being extremely weak, and involved in a fruitless contest with her own South American colonies, could oppose no serious resistance. Yet it was desirable to obtain a decent pretext, which circumstances in some degree afforded. Some adven turers from the revolted colonies, and pretending the authority of their chiefs, took possession of Amelia Island, on the Floridan coast ; while another band seized Gal- veston, in Texas. From these points they were alleged to carry on privateering operations, and otherwise to annoy American citizens. It being discovered that neither had connexion with any government, expeditions were sent which rooted up their settlements ; yet this was complained of by Spain as an encroachment. Again, on CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 349 the frontier of Florida, outrages were committed by bodies of Indians, alleged to be fomented by the Spanish authorities. General Jackson being appointed to the command, with his accustomed rough decision entered the country and took possession of St Marks and Pen- sacola. Having captured two Englishmen, Arbuthnot and Ambrister, he brought them to trial before a court- martial for exciting the Indians to insurrection, when they were condemned and executed. He was arraigned in congress for these extraordinary stretches of power, and a committee reported on them with great severity ; yet he was acquitted in the house, being supported by government, who, however, sent orders to restore the captured places. It assumed these movements, however, as grounds for eagerly pressing the desired cession. Com plaints were raised of illegal captures made more than twenty years ago, to the amount of several millions of dollars. This claim would be waved, and a cession made of that upon the territory of Texas, provided Florida were given up. The former indeed was esteemed by Spain as part of Mexico, and could in no shape be made avail able by her. Yet, on the 23d February 1819, Don Onis, the Spanish minister, was prevailed upon to sign a treaty on the above conditions. Ferdinand, however, refused to ratify it, and sent a new ambassador to com plain of hostile proceedings by American citizens. That cabinet strongly remonstrated against this measure, and even threatened to take possession of the territory by main force. Thus, in October 1820, a ratification was at length extorted, and in the following year possession was given of the country. In 1821, on the admission of Missouri into the Union, the enemies of slavery made a noble effort to prohibit its existence in that new state. This measure had passed the representatives, but was most vehemently opposed by the southern deputies, who even threatened, if it were carried, to break up the Union. They at length succeeded, granting only, by way of compromise, that slavery was not to extend north of 36° 30' N. latitude. 350 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. This, however, was the commencement of a great struggle, which has since been carried on without in termission. In 1822, the government determined to acknowledge the new republics formed in South America. They were observed to be now in complete possession of actual independence, Spain not having for three years sent a single corps against them. Ministers were therefore appointed to Mexico, Buenos Ayres, Colombia, and Chili. Measures, too, were at this time taken to sup press a system of piracy which had risen to a great height in the West Indies, especially on the coast of Cuba. Another question, which has deeply agitated the Union, rose at this time into prominent view. The democratic party, from causes already explained, had renounced their original principle of free trade, and be come attached to that of forcing native manufactures by high duties on those imported. They had thus become allied to the powerful and rising body of northern merchants and manufacturers. The agricultural states, however, to whose interest this system was every way adverse, made a strong opposition, and it was not till 1824 that this was overcome, and a heavy tariff estab lished. In 1825, Mr Monroe's second term of office expired, and he followed his predecessors' example of not standing for a third. A keen and close contest followed, not however founded upon political, but upon state and sectional partialities. Andrew Jackson of Tennessee had 99 votes, John Quincy Adams of Massachusetts 84, W. H. Crawford of Georgia 41, Henry Clay of Ken tucky 37. The constitution had however regulated, that whenever no single candidate had a majority of the entire number, the election should devolve on the repre sentatives. Their choice fell upon Adams, whose accession did not make any present change in the system of govern ment, since he had acted as secretary of state under the late president, and professed to follow in his steps. Yet CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH, 351 during his rule, the preceding harmony was entirely broken up, and the foundation laid for contests as terrible as had ever shaken the Union. Representing the most commercial of the states, he became the im personation of the mercantile and monied interest, which had risen to unprecedented importance. His entire support was given to their favourite objects — the im position of heavy duties on foreign manufactures, the support of the national bank and the banking system in general, and the executing or aiding of public works and improvements out of the funds of the central govern ment. For this last purpose large appropriations were made, and extensive surveys undertaken. But the most momentous act under this administration was the tariff of 1828, by which the duties on imported manufactures were rendered almost prohibitory. The great agricul tural interest, always averse to this system, had hitherto, from feelings of national pride, been induced to acquiesce. Its influence, however, both in raising the price of articles of consumption, and reducing the rentfor produce, became now most severe. This body, too, looked with disgust on the immense wealth acquired and profusely displayed in the mercantile cities, contrasted with the humble mediocrity earned by rural industry. They were thus organized into a regular opposition, at the head of which Jackson placed himself, with all the weight derived from his energetic character and military reputation. The contest was severe ; but his victory proved complete, 178 votes being obtained against 83 for Adams. Jackson immediately applied himself to carry out his views with an impetuosity and determination character istic of himself, but to which the American people had not been accustomed. Following an example, w^hich Jefferson only had set in a small degree, he removed all the officials who had shown any attachment to the late government, substituting his own creatures. On the presentation of a bill for subscribing out of the general funds to a new road over the Alleghany, he applied to 352 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. it his veto, intimating a resolution to treat similarly every proposal for defraying local improvements out of the public revenue. As the charter of the bank was soon to expire, he expressed a disposition not to renew it, without a great retrenchment of its privileges. The tariff, too, should he thought be modified, though on this point he was by no means so forward in seconding the views of his party. The first collision arose on the subject of the bank, whose charter was to expire in 1836. This body, com prising some individuals of great wealth, and being as it were the centre of the mercantile and monied interest, was an object of peculiar odium to the high democratic party. Yet the former influence, joined to the ex perience of the benefits of the institution, procured con siderable majorities in both houses for a bill renewing its charter, under some slight modifications, for fifteen years. On being presented to Jackson, however, it was met by a decided veto, the institution being represented as at once unnecessary and dangerous, as a contrivance of the wealthier classes to increase their opulence, to render the rich richer, and the potent more powerful, at the expense of the humbler classes of society. As the majority in neither house amounted to two-thirds, this veto decided the fate of the bill and of the bank. Meantime the states were involved on the north western frontier in a somewhat formidable Indian war. The course of events had pushed settlements into this quarter, where the natives had remained hitherto nearly undisturbed ; and the lead -mines of Galena had drawn thither a considerable population, not of the most select description. In these circumstances, the ordinary causes of collision could not be avoided. The natives, com plaining of being wronged, began their usual fierce re taliation ; and after detached outrages on both sides, a general Indian confederacy was formed, under the chief Black Hawk and his brother named the Prophet. A desolating war was suddenly commenced along a line of three hundred miles of frontier. Many settlers were CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 353 either killed or carried into captivity, among which last were the Misses Hall, two young ladies of remark able beauty. They were treated with courtesy and respect, though a chief eagerly claimed one as his prize, and used the most earnest solicitations to induce her to become his bride ; yet she was allowed to depart, leaving with him only a lock of her hair. Meantime a strong- force of regular troops and of the militia of Illinois as sembled under Generals Scott and Atkinson. On their approach the Indians did not attempt a regular contest, but retreated over a broken tract towards the Missouri. ' They were pursued and completely dispersed, being severely harassed by the Sioux and Winnebagoes, who had formerly favoured their cause. Black Hawk, the Prophet, and other chiefs were taken and paraded through the principal cities of the Union. The treaty of peace included a large cession of territory, which became the basis of the two new territories of Wisconsin and Iowa, now rapidly filling with people. In the same year, 1832, a contest almost as violent arose within the Union itself. The agricultural, and especially the southern interests, had supported Jack son on the understanding of a material reduction in the exorbitant tariff, which raised the prices of all manufac tured articles, and lowered the value of the produce of the soil. An extraordinary depression had in fact taken place on the price of cotton, — the staple of so many states. The president, however, had not displayed much ardour in regard to this object, or a disposition to carry it out to any great extent. In the session of 1832, a bill was passed, somewhat modifying the rates, but not to a degree at all satisfactory. The southern people then became desperate. Those of South Carolina con tended, that congress had no power to impose taxes for any purposes but those of revenue ; that each state had a right to judge whether that body exceeded its powers, and in that case to disobey it. They therefore declared the tariff null and void, making it unlawful for any of the constituted authorities to enforce it, and disallowing 354 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. all appeal to the supreme court. Any act which might be passed by congress to coerce them into obedience would be considered as absolving them from the obliga tion to maintain the Union, and they would proceed to organize a separate government. These views were supported by their legislature ; and Mr Calhoun of this state resigned his office of vice-president, when he was nominated to the senate, in order to support the cause. Jackson, however, in a proclamation, and afterwards in a message to the house, denounced them as wholly uncon stitutional, and subversive of all the advantages which the states derived from their union. The laws of the United States must be executed ; he had no discretion ary power on the subject. His declarations being strongly seconded by Webster and other leading orators of the commercial party, received the warm concurrence of congress. The Carolinians, on the other hand, took measures for calling out the militia, fortifying the ports, and otherwise preparing to repel force by force. A col lision seemed inevitable, and could not have failed to be very serious, as Virginia and other neighbouring states, without sharing in the movement, were known to view it with favour, and could not be expected to aid cordially in its suppression. A stormy session was spent without the passing of any measure promising to extricate the nation from this dilemma, when Mr Clay brought forward a proposition, that the rates should undergo an annual re duction, till they were brought down to 20 per cent., which was to be fixed as the permanent amount. This motion being assented to by Mr Calhoun, was carried through congress. Peace was thus restored to the Union ; yet zealous politicians on each side complained of its having been obtained by a mere practical compromise, without any settlement of the constitutional principle. In 1833, Jackson's first term of office having expired, Mr Clay of Kentucky, who had gained niuch reputation by the adjustment of the Carolina question, was opposed to him by the bank and commercial party. The former was re-elected, however, by an overwhelming majority, 219 to CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 355 49 ; while Van Buren, a statesman devoted to his views, was, by numbers nearly equal, appointed vice-president. He was thus encouraged to persevere in the warfare against the bank, his resentment being farther excited by the hostile part which he alleged them — not perhaps without some reason — to have taken against his elec tion. His next step was to withdraw the deposits of public money placed in their hands, and from which much of their importance as well as emolument had been derived. He had formerly invited congress to consider whether these sums could be safely lodged with them ; but that body made the unwelcome report, that they were thus perfectly secure. He then took the opportunity of an interval when the legislature was not sitting, and ordered the secretary to the treasury to withdraw them. That officer, who was alone privileged by the constitu tion to take this step, considered it unjustifiable, and refused to comply. He was dismissed, and a new one appointed, who obeyed the order. At the next meeting of dongress, the senate, who still adhered to the opposite interest, after warm debates, passed a resolution, that the president, in these proceedings, had " assumed upon himself authority and power not conferred by the constitution and laws, but in derogation of both.'* Jack son replied by a long and indignant protest, strenuously defending his own conduct, and insisting that they had no right to advance such charges against him in any other shape but that of impeachment. He afterwards announced, that the government money had been placed in the state banks, where it was found perfectly safe ; and that every purpose was answered which had formerly been served by its deposit in the national institution. The government was soon after involved in serious transactions with the Indian nations. The remains of their tribes, by successive wars, purchases, and treaties, had become scattered throughout the territory in detached sections, completely surrounded and enclosed by their conquerors. In such a situation, frequent collision was almost unavoidable. The Indians murmured, that the 356 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. remnant of their territory was eagerly coveted and grasped at by every possible means ; that they were exposed to constant outrages, without hope of redress ; to which might be added, that they often sought it themselves not in the mildest manner. The state gov ernments complained, that to have independent states of so turbulent a character enclosed within their domain, was incompatible with any regular system of adminis tration. In these circumstances a plan was devised, which was first developed by Monroe in his message of the 7th December 1824. Beyond the most western frontier of the states, there lay a great extent of terri tory, which, though rude, contained as much productive land as would be sufficient for the support of all these tribes. It was proposed to present such motives as might induce them to quit all the domains now held by them within the Union, and emigrate thither. They were to be paid the full price of the former, to be freely trans ported and established in their new possessions, and re ceive their subsistence for one year. This plan appeared to us at first view both cruel and unwise ; and we know that Mr Catlin and others deeply interested in the people are of the same opinion. On full consideration, how ever, we incline to consider it the best alternative, under the circumstances, left to the general government. They, as must have fully appeared in the course of this work, cannot control their borderers, or even their border- states ; and it is impossible to prevent collisions, the issue of which must always be disastrous to the Indian race. Some such plan, therefore, was perhaps the only one by which they could be protected, or even their existence preserved. It continued to be prosecuted under the administra tion of Adams, yet without, for some time, making much progress. To quit their native seats, the home of their fathers, the tombs of their ancestors, appeared to the Indians an evil not to be compensated by any external advantages, in a distant and unknown region. Jackson, however, applied himself to the object with characteristic CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 357 energy and determination. "Without employing abso lute compulsion, he intimated that they could only re main on condition of ceasing to be independent, and becoming subject to the laws of the state within which they were located. This alternative, as wras expected, appeared to them so terrible, that a reluctant consent to removal began to be extorted. In December 1830, the president could announce a treaty to that effect with the Choctaws and Chickasaws. Fruitless negotiations were carried on with the Cherokees ; but, in 1833, agreements were made with the Creeks in Alabama, and the Seminoles in Florida, who, in their difficult country, had been reinforced by fugitives from various states. Concerning the transactions with this last people, no regular or authenticated narrative has yet been published ; and \ve must depend chiefly on an article in the North American Review, not perhaps quite friendly to the president. They stipulated, it appears, for a deputation to proceed and to examine the territory assigned, understanding that the final decision was to depend upon its report. Government, on the contrary, conceived the engagement to be absolute, and in April 1834 obtained a vote of congress for its execu tion. The deputation, it is said, on their return, re ported favourably of the territory, but objected to the vicinity in which they would be placed to some hostile tribes. The year 1835 having nearly elapsed without any movement, Jackson pressed with extreme urgency their immediate departure. The resolution was then taken of resisting to the last extremity. Oceola, the chief, proclaimed it treason for any Indian to leave the country. A general attack was commenced on the American frontier posts, which, being very unprepared, suffered severely. On the 28th December 1835, a de tachment of 102 men was cut off, three only escaping ; and the bodies of the slain were found fifty-three days after lying unburied on the field of battle. On the 31st, a body of between -200 and 300 was defeated, with the loss of sixty-three killed and wounded. The war 358 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. spread among the adjacent tribe of the Creeks, and be came one of the longest and most obstinate ever waged be tween the two races. When the main force of the States was brought up, the insurgents were unable to face it in the open field ; but to root them out of the swamps, morasses, and dense entangled forests of this most difficult country, proved a task truly arduous. What rendered the American force both inefficient and expensive was its being mostly composed of militia, called out only for a certain time, a great part of which was occupied in the inarch and return. The total expenditure of the war is reckoned at 20,000,000 dollars (above £4,000,000 sterling). At length, in 1839, General Macomb con cluded a treaty, by which they were not obliged to emigrate, but allowed to occupy unmolested a certain range of territory. Thence, however, they made for midable incursions, and it was not till August 1842 that government could announce the final termination of this contest. The Creeks had already been subdued, and about 1840 the object had been nearly completed of transporting the whole of the Indian race to the ter ritory assigned to them along the western frontier. Negotiations had been long carried on with France on account of the seizures made under the decrees of Napo leon. These had even been acknowledged to the extent of twenty-five millions of francs (above £1,000,000), but the government had been exceedingly slow in making the payment. In 1836, however, the energy of Jack son, accompanied even by a threat of war, extorted its liquidation. The finances at this period reached a point of pros perity not attained in any other civilized country. The whole of the national debt had been paid off, and a con siderable surplus was found in the treasury. As it was not considered advisable either to reduce the duties on imports, or the price of public land, it was resolved to dis tribute this sum among the states, to be employed for purposes of internal improvement. This prosperity en couraged the president to continue his warfare against CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 359 banks, and even to form the design of banishing paper currency, and substituting one entirely of gold. As a preliminary, orders were issued to refuse payment in any other shape for the land sales. This occasioned a drain of specie, which, combined doubtless with other causes, hurried on that violent crisis when all the banks stopt at once, and the whole nation, from the height of pros perity, was plunged into the deepest distress. This result was favourable to the party hostile to Jackson, and which had assumed a new and popular character. His temper and conduct were despotic, and by his vetoes he had dictated a series of leading legis lative measures, in opposition to the decision of congress. They proclaimed liberty to be in danger, and, under the title of Whigs, came forward as its guardians. The people could not but recognise some truth in these charges, and the stagnation of trade affected even the lowest ranks. Mr Clay, and other former partisans of democracy, joined this standard, which gained continu ally new adherents. In the beginning of 1837, the second term of Jackson's rule having expired, he followed the usual course, and declined standing a third time. Van Buren, vice-president, attached to the same principles, was put forward by the party, who had still power sufficient to secure his election, though only by a majority of 43 — 167 to 124. The latter number, from want of concert, was distributed among four candidates, of whom General Harrison had 73. Mr Van Buren, with less energy, had a more moderate and prudent temper than his predecessor ; but he in herited all the evils of the system, which, at his acces sion, had just reached their utmost height. The finances, from a state of such high prosperity, had sunk into extreme embarrassment. Jackson had boasted of the fidelity with which the state-banks kept the deposits of public money ; but now, when called upon for repay ment, they "found it inconvenient to comply ;" in short, they had embarked the money in speculation, and lost 360 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. it. The customs had diminished with the decline of trade, and heavy extra expenses had been incurred by the Indian war and removal. The president was obliged, in his inaugural address, to announce that a loan of six or rather ten millions of dollars would be necessary to meet the expenses of the year. Notwithstanding the lamentable failure of the state-banks, he still repelled the idea of a national institution, but substituted a branch of the treasury to be employed in keeping the public money, — a measure considered as unduly in creasing the influence of the executive, and at the same time by no means very secure. In the end of 1837, the American cabinet was placed in a delicate situation by the posture of affairs in Canada. A long dispute between the legislature and the British government issued at length in open re bellion, which broke out at once both in the lower and upper province. A large body of American citizens on the frontier caught the infection, and, under the title of sympathizers, eagerly desired to make common cause with the insurgents. The president, seconded in con gress by men of the most opposite parties, determined to enforce the strictest neutrality. He issued two suc cessive orders, prohibiting all interference, and warning the people of the penalties they would incur by vio lating the law. As the border militia could not be trusted, a large body was ordered from the more peace able districts of the interior, and placed under the com mand of General Scott. The rising in both provinces was very quickly sup pressed ; but Mackenzie, the leader in Upper Canada, found at Buffalo a welcome reception. Some of the prin cipal citizens, including even military officers, determined, in defiance of their government, to support the cause. A band of refugees and sympathizers took possession of Navy Island, in the centre of the Niagara channel, which they fortified so strongly, that Sir Allan M'Nab, with the loyalist force, was unable to dislodge them. He employed, however, Captain Drew to seize and de- CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH, 361 stroy the Caroline, a vessel employed in conveying to them provisions and stores. This attack, made while the vessel was moored near the American shore, was not only loudly exclaimed against by the sympathizers, but complained of by the government as an invasion of the territory. General Scott having arrived and cut off from the island all supplies, while the British force was constantly augmenting, the invaders were obliged to evacuate the station. They continued, however, to make inroads at different points, both of Lower and Upper Canada, though without any success. These proceedings, being steadily discountenanced by the American cabinet, and arising evidently only out of the lawless character of the border population, did not cause any interruption in the good understanding between the two countries.* From another quarter some threat of collision arose. Owing to the vague terms of the treaty of 1783, there remained in dispute a large extent of country, between Maine on one side, and the British provinces of New Brunswick and Canada on the other. It formed at that time a mere tract of wild forest, scarcely trodden by a European ; but as settlement and culture advanced, the fine timber with which it was clothed became an im portant object to both parties, especially the Americans. In 1829, an agreement was made to refer the question to the award of the King of Holland. He rendered it in 1831, declaring the impossibility of regulating any boundary according to the doubtful tenor 'of the treaty, but recommending one extending along the St Croix, the St John, and thence to the head of the Connecticut. All parties were disposed to acquiesce in this decision, except the senate, who rejected it as not made according to the terms of the treaty, but proposing a new and arbitrary line. Thus the question continued undecided, while it was assuming every day greater importance. Trespassers from each side entered the territory to cut * These events are more fully narrated in British America (Edinburgh Cabinet Library), vol. i. p. 224-242. VOL. III. Z 362 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. timber, and expeditions were sent to drive them off, which virtually took possession of the ground. One from New Brunswick made prisoner Mr Macintyre, land-agent for Maine, and conveyed him to Fredericton. An armed body of 200 from that state then entered, and carried off Mr Maclauchlan, the British warder. Border collision seemed inevitable, when an agreement was made between Mr Fox the British ambassador, and Mr Forsyth the American secretary of state, that the government of Maine should voluntarily withdraw its military force, and any future arrangements against trespassers be made by the two powers jointly. A convention to that effect was signed by the respective governors on the 23d and 25th March 1839. Meantime the Whig party gained continually new strength, as the embarrassments imputed to the over throw of the bank, and the attempts to introduce an exclusively gold currency, were more sensibly felt. All their efforts were concentrated as the period ap proached for the election of a new president. In order to prevent that division, which before had at least weak ened the display of their strength, a national Whig convention was assembled at Harrisburg in Pennsyl vania, to agree on some one candidate. Those proposed were General Harrison, Mr Clay, and General Scott. After five successive ballots, the former was fixed upon, while Mr Tyler, a Virginian, with a supposed leaning to the democratic side, was unanimously named for vice-president. Conventions, with assemblies and pro cessions on a great scale, were held at Boston, Baltimore, Wheeling, and other places, to support this canvass. These efforts were crowned with complete success. The election of Harrison was carried by a majority of 234 to 60 ; that of Tyler by a similar one. The for mer was inaugurated on the 4th of March 1841, and presently formed a ministry composed of leading mem bers of the party who had raised him to power. Mr Webster was named secretary for foreign affairs, and was expected to have the chief influence in the admin- CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 363 istration ; while Mr Everett was sent ambassador to England. The Whigs, who could also command decided though not large majorities in both houses, seemed to be entering on a long and secure tenure of power. These prospects were blasted by a very unexpected and melancholy event. The president, who had reached his sixty-ninth year, proved unequal to the fatigues of his arduous functions, and died on the 4th of April, just a month after commencing their exercise. The constitu tion then conferred the office upon Mr Tyler, vice- president, who, by an arrangement which appears singular, yet is prevalent in America, was attached in a great degree to the opposite or democratic principles. The new president, however, professed veneration for his predecessor, with an intention to tread in his footsteps, and to employ the same ministers. The party there fore lost no time in bringing forward their favourite measure of a new national bank, the absence of which they considered one main cause of the recent distresses. Accordingly a bill for one on a plan nearly similar to the former, to be entitled a " fiscal bank," was passed by both houses. On being presented, however, to the president, he applied to it a decided veto, yet intimating a disposition to sanction an institution of which the nature and objects should be more limited. In the hope of meeting his views, the houses prepared another for \vhat was to be termed a " fiscal corporation ;" but, on the 9th September, it also was negatived. Nothing could then exceed the indignation and dis gust of the Whig party, who saw their immense efforts made with such seeming success entirely frus trated. All the members of the cabinet resigned, with the exception of Mr Webster, who was supposed to remain with a view to conduct the now pending negotiation with Britain. A singular circumstance had occurred to increase its difficulties. Mr Macleod, on his way from Canada to New York, was arrested on the charge of having been concerned in the seizure of the Caroline, and 364 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. the death of an American who fell in the conflict. The authorities, who were little disposed to engage in such a transaction, admitted him to bail ; but the mob at Lockport furiously rose, compelled the securities to withdraw their bond, and retained him in prison. The general government claimed his release, as being indicted for a political offence, for which the British ambassador undertook to answer ; but the supreme court of New York decided, that the two nations not having been at war, the present must be considered a common charge of murder, to be tried by the criminal court of the state. Thus affairs continued in an agitated and irritating posi tion till the 12th October, when a jury acquitted him as not having been concerned in the outrage. In August 1841, a new ministry was formed in Britain, at the head of which was Sir Robert Peel. One of the first objects to which they turned their at tention was the adjustment of the American boundary dispute. With this view a special mission was sent, composed of Lord Ashburton, head of the commercial house of Baring, one of the most distinguished in the country. His lordship arrived in 1842, and an active correspondence was immediately opened between him and Mr Webster. Though encumbered with some dif ficulties, it was conducted on both sides with an earnest desire for a pacific termination. Accordingly, in August 1842, a treaty was concluded, in wrhich this long-pend ing question was at length adjusted. The line was drawn nearly according to the award of the King of Holland, to which Britain, though not quite satisfied, had formerly given her consent, while America had rejected it ; so that the concession was mainly on her part. The senate, after a debate of four days, ratified it by a majority of thirty-nine to nine. In the course of 1842, considerable agitation was ex cited by an attempt made in Rhode Island to change the state-constitution, and establish it on a more democratic basis. Such an alteration was in fact considered legitimate if introduced by a convention called by the legislature CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. 365 according to certain forms. The popular leaders and their adherents, however, assembled, and, alleging that they formed a majority, organized a new system on the basis of universal suffrage, appointing their chief, Mr Dorr, the new governor. They had even sym pathizers in New York and Boston ; but the president pronounced decidedly against so irregular a movement, intimating even his determination, if necessary, to em ploy force in its suppression. The state-government mustered an armed body, by which it was speedily put down, — Dorr and his adherents having either fled or dis persed. Soon after, they assembled anew, 700 strong, and took post on a hill, which they fortified with five pieces of cannon. The militia of the state being then called out, to the number of 3000, again attacked and dispersed them, with scarcely any bloodshed. In the general government, during the two last years, a confused agitation of parties has prevailed, without any striking collision. Mr Webster has resigned, and the Whig party have become entirely alienated from the present administration, while the democratic faction by no means give it their full confidence. The result of the new election, which conies on in spring 1845, is thus very uncertain. About half the states continue either to repudiate their debts, or at least to pay neither principal nor in terest. It is fair to state, that their conduct meets with decided reprobation among the respectable part of their own citizens, as well as among suffering parties in this country. The last North American Review has an ex cellent article, expressing hope that the suspension is merely temporary, but, if otherwise, denouncing it as a complete forfeiture of the national character. It an nounces that their proud system of freedom will thus be dishonoured, and their boasted aim to make it the admira tion and model of other and future nations will be com pletely frustrated. In fact, the consequence has already been a severe aggravation of the embarrassments of the general government, whose most advantageous proposals 366 CONCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCH. for a loan in Europe have been peremptorily rejected. It has thus been able to carry on its current expenses only by loans at home on onerous terms, or by the issue of treasury notes. Of the latter, there were outstand ing in 1843, 10,093,000 dollars. By strict economy the current expenses were reduced from 26,360,000 dollars in 1842 to 23,078,000 in 1843. The territory beyond the Rocky Mountains, to which the Americans have given the name of Oregon, has be come a source of controversy with Britain. In 1818, when the subject was merely speculative, a temporary convention was formed, that, without prejudicing the claim of either party, the region should be left free to the vessels and subjects of both. In 1827, this agree ment was prolonged for an indefinite period, leaving it, however, open for either party to press its claim, upon giving twelve months' notice. The activity and good management of the Hudson's Bay Company have nearly monopolized the fur trade, and driven the Americans out of the region. This exclusion is viewed with jeal ousy ; while adventurous squatters are aspiring to form settlements in some of the fine valleys that lie between the mountains and the ocean. Hence, some of the tur bulent members of congress do not hesitate to call upon the government to annul the convention, and prosecute the claim even at the hazard of war ; but it is not pro bable that any measure so rash will be adopted, especi ally under so severe a pressure of financial difficulty. APPENDIX. ABSTRACT OF THE RETURNS OF THE EXTENT AND VALUE OF THE DIFFERENT BRANCHES OF AMERICAN INDUSTRY MADE UNDER THE CENSUS OF 1840. Vorks. Quantities. Value. tmployed. Capital Invested. 286 903 tons Doll.,.. bar 197 233 } •' 30,497 Lead 31 239 453 Ibs. 1,017 1,346,756 Gold 529 605 1,046 234,325 Other metals 3/0,614 728 238,980 Coal, anthracite.... .. bituminous Salt 863,409 tons 27,603,191 bush. 6 179 174 3,043 3,768 2 365 4,355,602 1,868,862 6,998,045 iranite, marble, &c. lorses and mules . . Veat cattle Sheep.. •• 4,335,66'9 numb. 14,971, -K86 .. 19 311 3/4 3,695,884 7,859 2,540,159 Hogs ... 26 301 293 ^oultry Wheat 84,823,272 bush. 9,344,410 Barley * " 4,161,504 .. Oats Rye 123,0/1,341 .. 18,645,567 . . •• :::: Buckwheat ndian corn Wool .. 7,291,743 .. 377,531,875 .. 35 802 114 Ibs. .... 1,238,502 .. Wax sotatoes Hay. •• 628,303 . . 108,298,060 bush. 10 248 109 tons •• . :::: lemp and flax Tobacco 95,252 . . 219,163,319 Ibs. lice 80,841,422 .. Cotton Silk cocoons.. •• 790,4/9,275 . . 61 552 •• Sugar 155,110 809 .. Wood 5,088 891 cords Dairy 33,787,008 Orchard 7,256,904 >Vine 124,734 galls. Home-made goods. . jarden produce Nurseries. . .s Commerce, foreign. . . on commission. .. retail Lumberyards [nternal transport. Fish,smoked&dried .. pickled Oil, spermaceti . . . .. other 1 408 2 881 57565 1 793 } :::: 773',947 quint 472,359barrels 4,764, 708 galls. 7,536,778 .. 29,023,380 2,601,196 593,534 12 943,507 8J553 35,963 22,402 36,584 2,945,774 119,295,367 250,301,799 9,848. 31 1/ 11,526,950 16,429,620 Tar, pitch, &c — Ashes, potand pear Skins and Furs . . . Ginseng, &c, 619,106barrels 15,935 tons l,065,86fl £26,581 >22,042 |3 368 APPENDIX. Machinery Works Quantities. Value. Persons employed. Capital Invested. Numbe 274 numb 88 073 . . 15 745 Ibs. 49,820,497 Ibs. 17,904.507 . . 2,936,951 . . 41, 402,027 galls. 23,207,730 . . 8,977,348 Ibs. Dollar!. 10,980,581 6,451 ,90; 4,734,96( 9,779,445 2,442,95( 9,736,94. 20,696,99< 46,350,45, 119,814 6,545,50C 5,819,56f 8,704,345 1,476,505 33,134,403 } •• 4,151,899 600,827 2,890,29; 1,104,825 3,250,70( l,223,86o 6,153,092 4,078,306 923,924 0,897,887 6,545,246 7,016,094 7,555,405 1,917,401 4,785,353 13,001 r 5,492 1,744 ) 1,556 H 6,677 ) 3,734 > 22,807 > 21,342 i 72,11 76 15,90 8,38 |26,018 5,641 12,223 496 } 1,848 3,236 1,612 } 1,355 4,726 11,523 4.464 908 21,994 V60,788 18J003 85,501 Dollar.. - 20,620,869 15,765,124 51,102,359 274,374 4,368,991 3,437,191 4,485,300 15,650,929 12,881,262 2,757,273 9,147,368 875,875 4,507,675 2,084,100 551,431 1,769,571 4,745,239 5,873,815 2,465,577 734,370 5,551,632 65,858,470 6,989,971 25,019,726 267.726.579 Hardware, &c Small arms Various ditto Granite, &c. . Bricks and lime Wool.. 4,005 1,240 Cotton Silk Mixed fabrics. . . Tobacco lats and caps straw-bonnets fanned leather Other ditto 8',229 17,136 Soap Candles, tallow . . . .. Wax, &c...... Distilleries. 10',306 406 137 'iis 659 43 '426 1,552 447 Breweries. . Gunpowder. . . Drugs, paints, dyes &c 'urpentine^varnisl Glass 'etined sugar Confectionery, &c.. Printing. Binding.. ewspapers, &c /ordage Musical instruments Carriages, &c. ... 1,631 388 7,404,502 barrels Mills, flour 4,364 23, W] 31,050 843 . grist. . . saw.. .. oil Ships Furniture Houses, brick &stone . . wooden All other manufact. Total manufactures 8,429 15,684 INDEX. A. ADAMS, John, president, vol. ii. p. 159. Adams, John Quincy, president, iii. 350, 351. Agriculture, ii. 274-284. Method pursued, 275, 276. Grains, 276, 278. Tobacco, 278, 279. Cotton, 279, 280. Sugar, &c., 281. Live stock, 282. Timber, 283. Alabama, topography of, iii. 311-316. Albany, description of, iii. 302. Alleghany Mountains, i. 20-22 ; iii. 202, 203. Alvaro Nunez, takes part in expe dition to Florida under Narvaez, i. 36. His journey thence over land to Mexico, 43-45. Amadis and Barlow, exploratory expedition sent to Virginia by Raleigh under these officers, i. 81, 82. Ames, Fisher, notice of his oratory, iii. 117-120. Anabaptists, their appearance in New England, i. 221. Andre, Major, his melancholy fate, ii. 93-95. Andros, Sir Edward, governor of Virginia, i. 141. Antinomians, rise of in Massachu setts, i. 202-216. Anti-slavery society, its measures, iii. 68-71. Opposition encountered, 71-75. Area, &c. of the United States, i. 18-29. Aristocracy, its character and in fluence, ii. 244-249. Army, ii. 271, 272. Arnold, General, his adventures, ii. 90-92. Treacherous desertion, 93, 94. Augusta, its foundation, i. 313. Augustine, St, founded by Pedro Msnendez, i. 73. Abortive sieges by the English colonists, 305, 314. Ayllon, Lucas Vasquez de, visits South Carolina, i. 34. B. Bacon, Nathaniel, raises a rebellion in Virginia, i. 135-137. Baltimore, George first Lord, ob tains a grant of Maryland from Charles!., i. 145. Baltimore, Cecil Lord, colonization of Maryland by, i. 146-148. Cha racter of his government, 149-161. Loses his authority during the Long Parliament, 162-1/0. Re instated at the Restoration, 172. Revolution transfers it to the crown, 175. Baltimore, Charles Lord, Maryland patent restored to him by George I., i. 175. Baltimore (city), trade of, ii. 379. Description of, iii. 310. Bancroft, Mr, notice of his writings, iii. 197, 198. Bank, National, its establishment, ii. 133. Successive modifications, 338-341. Overturned by Jackson, 342 ; iii. 352, 355. Banking operations, ii. 335-349. Vi cissitudes in America, 337-348. Regulations, 348, 349. Baptists, account of, iii. 84. Kin dred sects, 85. Barbary States, American transac tions with, iii. 347. Barlow, Joel, notice of his poetry, iii. 134, 135. Belcher, governor of Massachusetts, i. 253, 254. Bellamont, Lord, governor of Mas sachusetts, i. 252. Of New York, 292. Berkeley, Sir William, governor of Virginia, i. 125, 133-138. Biography, writers of, iii. 198, 199. Birds, iii. 257-276. Blackwell, governor of Pennsylvania, i. 271. Bladensburg, battle of, ii. 200, 201. Boston, its foundation, i. 195. Tu mults caused there by the Stamp- Act, &c., 242, 243, 348-350. Port closed, 356-359. Evacuated by the 370 INDEX. British, 395. Trade of, ii. 377, 378. Description of, iii. 291,293. Botany, iii. 223-256. Boundaries of the United States, i. 18. Braddock, General, his expedition, i. 324. Defeat, 325, 326. Brainard, J. G. C., notice of his poetry, iii. 154-156. Brandy wine, battle of, ii. 31, 32. Britain, origin and events of the second war with, ii. 174-211. Re strictions on neutrals and right of search, 175, 1/6. Attack on the Chesapeake, 177, 178. Negotia tions, 176-179. Berlin decrees and orders in council, 179, 180. Em bargo law, 180. Madison presi dent, ib. Various negotiations, 181-184. President determines on war, 184, 185. Losses in Canada, 187. Success at sea, 188, 189. Va rious operations in Canada, 191- 194. British fleet in the Chesa peake, 195, 196. War with the Creek Indians, 196-198. General peace in Europe, 198. Landing of General Ross, 199. Battle of Bladensburg, 200, 201. Capture of Washington, 201. Attempt on Baltimore, 202, 203. Further operations in Canada, 204, 205. British expedition against New Orleans, 205-208. Embarrass ments of the American govern ment, 209. Treaty of Ghent, 209- 211. Brooklyn, battle of, ii. 17, 18. De scription of the town, iii. 301, 302. Brooks, Mrs, notice of her poetry, iii. 180-182. Brown, William Brockden, notice of his writings, iii. 197, 198. Brownists, account of this sect, i. 183. Emigration of to New Eng land, 185. Settlement at New Plymouth, 187- Bryant, notice of his poetry, iii. 136-145. Bunker's Hill, battle of, i. 380, 381. Burgoyne, his expedition from Ca nada, ii. 35-40. Surrender to Ge neral Gates, 41. Burke, Mr, his speeches in favour of the colonists, i. 358, 361. His plan of conciliation, 387- Burnet, governor of Massachusetts, i. 253. Of New York, 293, 294. C. Cabot, John, discovery of North America by, i. 29. Cabot, Sebastian, his voyage along the coast, i. 29. Explores Hud son's Bay, 30. Character of this discoverer, ib. Cambridge, description of, iii. 293. Camden, battle of, ii. 82. Canada, cession of to Britain, i. 330. American expeditions against, 390, 391 ; ii. 187, 191-194, 204, 205. Civil war in, iii. 360, 361. Canals, ii. 313-326. Great Erie Ca nal, 314-317. Others in New York, 317, 318. In Ohio and Indiana, 318-320. Pennsylvania, 320, 321. Maryland, 321-324. New Jersey, &c., 324, 325. Virginia, &c., 325, 326. New England, 326. Cancello, a Dominican missionary, attempts by him to convert the Floridans, i. 65. Is put to death by them, ib. Carolinas, the, colonization of,i. 298- 310. Early settlements, 298. Li beral grant by Charles II., 299. Constitution framed by Shaftes- bury and Locke, 300. Progress of the settlements, 302, 303. Con stitution annulled, 304. Spanish invasion repulsed, 305. Indian war, 305-307. Colony reverts to the crown, 309. Separation of the northern and southern portions, ib. Topography, iii. 311-316. Catlin, Mr, notice of his travels, iii. 200. Catskill Mountains, iii. 295, 296. Chalons, Captain, his voyage to New England, i. 177. Channing, Dr, notice of his writings, iii. 196, 197. Charleston (Carolina), its founda tion, i. 303. Siege of, ii. 67, 68. Trade, 379. Description of, iii. 315. Charleston (Massachusetts), descrip tion of, iii. 293. Chatham, Lord, his speech against taxing the colonists, i. 345. Op position to Lord North's measures, 361, 369. Opposes the severance of the colonies, ii. 43, 44. Chrlst-ians, the, account of, iii. 85. Cincinnati, description of, iii. 321. Clarke , governor of New York, i. 294 . Clason, Isaac, notice of his poetry, iii. 170, 171. Clay, Henry, notice of his oratory, iii. 127-130. Cleyborne, Captain, his settlementon Kent Island, i. 150. Contests with Lord Baltimore, 151, 152. Excites an insurrection in Maryland, 157. Named a commissioner to the co lonies, 162. Climate of the United States, i. 17. INDEX. 371 Clinton, governor of New York, i. 294. Clinton, General, conducts an ex pedition against Charleston, i. 396. Its repulse, 397. Attempts to aid Burgoyne, ii. 40. Succeeds Howe, 51.— See History. Coligni, Admiral, colonial enter prises of, i. 7(1-73. Colonies, British, not originally con nected, i. 316. Contests with the French, 317-330. Proposals for a general union ineffectual, 322, 323. View of their progress in popula tion and wealth, 330-333. Dis turbances caused by the Stamp- Act, &c., 342-347. Commence ment of the revolutionary war, 374. Declaration of Independence, 398-400.— See History. Colonization Society, iii. 68. Its objects, 75, 76. Columbia district, topography of, iii. 304-311. Commerce, domestic, ii. 299-349. Its great extent, 301), 301. Steam- navigation, 302-313. Canals, 313- 326. Railways, 326-335. Bank ing, 335-349. Commerce, foreign, ii. 350-380. Im mense agricultural exports, 350- 356. Timber, fish, manufactures, &C., 356-359. Imports, 359, 360. Trade with Britain, 360. France, 361. Other European countries, 361, 362. West Indies and South America, 362-366. East Indies and China, 366, 367. Shipping, &c., 368-376. Seaports, 376-380. Conant, Roger, settlement formed at Cape Ann by, i. 192. Congregationalists, account of, iii. 85, 86. Congress, the first, meeting of, i. 341, 342. Congress, general, meeting of, i. 367. Resolutions adopted, 367, 368. War resolved on, 376-378. De clares the colonies independent, 398-400. Opens negotiations with France , ii. 44. Alliance with that power, 48. With Spain, 60.— See History. Congress, legislative, constitution and functions of, ii. 223-227. Connecticut, settlement of, i. 255-257. Topography, iii. 284-294. Constitution, political, view of, ii. 212-273. Functions of central go vernment, 214-223. Of the states, ib. Legislature, 223-227. Exe cutive, 227-233. Judiciary, 233- 235. Actual working of the con stitution, 235-258. State govern ments, 258-260. Township and county jurisdictions, 26U-262. Po lice, 262-264. Finances, &c., 264- 271. Army and navy, 271-273. Cooper, Mr, notice of his writings, iii. 193-195. Cornbury, Lord, governor of New York, i. 292, 293. Cornwallis, Lord. — See History. Cosby, Colonel, governor of New York, i. 294. Cowpens, battle of, ii. 76. Crantteld, Edward, governor of New Hampshire, i. 262. Cromwell, Oliver, ignorance of co lonial affairs displayed by this ruler, i. 164-171. Culpepper, Lord, governor of Vir ginia, i. 139, 140. D. Dana, Richard H., notice of his poetry, iii. 148-150. Davidson, Lucretia and Margaret, notice of their poetry, iii. 186-191. Declaration of Independence, i. 398- 400. Delaware, Lord, governor of Vir ginia, i. 106, 109. Delaware river, iii. 297, 298. Delaware state, topography of, iii. 304-311. Democracy, its character and in fluence, ii. 336-341. Detroit, description of, iii. 322. Doane, Dr, notice of his poetry, iii. 164, 165. Drake, J. Rodman, notice of his poetry, iii. 168. Dudley, governor of Massachusetts, i. 252. Dutch, settlements formed by them in New York, i. 282, 283. Dwight, Dr, notice of his poetry, iii. 135, 136. E. Effingham, Lord, governor of Vir ginia, i. 140, 141. Eliot, Mr, the Indian apostle, i. 245-247. Elizabeth, maritime enterprise under that princess, i. 79, 80. Emigration to the United States, iii. 330-345. Early western settle ments — Boone, 331. Henderson, 332. Acquisition of Ohio, 333. Sales of land, 334-336. Imposi tions practised, 337, 338. Settle ment on improved farms, — com- 372 INDEX. parison of different states, 338-340. British America and the States, 340. Timbered land and prairie, 341. Modes of conveyance west ward, 341-344. Employment for operatives, 344, 345. Episcopalians, account of, Hi. 86. Erie Canal, account of, ii. 314-317. Essayists, iii. 195-197. Eutaw, battle of, ii. 85. Everett, Edward, notice of his ora tory, iii. J20-123. Executive government, character of, ii. 227-233. Its political influence. 241-244. F. Fayette, Marquis de la, embraces the cause of the Americans, ii. 89. — See History. Fendal, Josiah, governor of Mary land, i. 171-174. Finances, &c., ii. 264-271. Fishery, ii. 296-298. Cod, 296, 297. Mackerel, &c., 297- Whale, 298. Fishes, iii. 279-282. Fletcher, Colonel, governor of New York, i. 291, 292. ' Florida, discovery of by Ponce de Leon, i. 33. Narvaez attempts its conquest, 36. Sufferings and disas trous fate of his expedition, 37-45. Similar attempt by Soto, 48-63. Its unsuccessful result, 65. Settle ment formed by the French Hugue nots under Laudonniere, 71. Cruel massacre- of the settlers by the Spaniards, 75. Dreadful retalia tion by De Ciourgues, 77- Topo graphy of this region, iii. 311-316. Cession of by Spain, 348, 349. Forests, i. 25. Francis I. sends out an expedition to North America under Verazzano, i. 66. Franklin, Benjamin, proposes a scheme for uniting the colonies, i. 322, 323. Mission to London, 340, 353, 354. Draws up a plan of conciliation, 372. Appointed commissioner from congress to France, ii. 47. French, their expeditions to North America, i. 66-78. Francis I., 66. Expedition under Verazzano, 66- 68. His fate, 69. Admiral Coligni, 70. He sends out Ribault, ib. Colonists return, 71- Settlement formed by Laudonniere, 71-73. Massacre of the settlers by the Spaniards, 73-76. Retaliation by De Gourgues, 76-78. French, their claims on the western territory, i. 319. Contests with the British colonies, 317-330. Assist ance granted to the Americans, ii. 45. Treaty of alliance with them, 48. — See History. Fulton, Robert, his efforts to pro mote steam navigation, ii. 303-307- Fur trade, ii. 284. G. Gage, General, governor of Massa chusetts, i. 362-365, 373-375, 380, 393.— See History. Gallagher, William D., notice of his poetry, iii. 174, 175. Gates, General, his operations against Burgoyne, ii. 38-40. Cap tures the British force, 41. — See History. Genet, French ambassador, his violent proceedings, ii. 149-153. Geology, iii. 201-223. George, Lake, i. 22. Georgia, settlement of, i. 310-315. Exertions of General Oglethorpe, 311, 312. Wesley and Whitetield, 313. Spanisli war, 314. Becomes a royal colony, 315. Topography, iii. 311-316. Gomez, Stephen, discovers New York and part of New England, i. 35. Gorges, Sir Ferdinand, settlements in New Hampshire and Maine formed by, i. 260. Gorton, religious disturbances raised by him in New England, i. 218- 220. Gosnold, Bartholomew, his voyago along the coast of New England, i. 88, 89. Gould, Hannah F., notice of her poetry, iii. 185, 186. Gourgues, Dominique de, revenges the massacre of his countrymen by the Spaniards, i. 76-78. Greene, General. — See History. Grenville, Sir Richard, conducts Raleigh's second expedition to Virginia, i. 82. Grenville, George, his plan of taxing America, i. 388, 389. His defence of the measure, 344. Guildford, battle of, ii. 79, 80. H. Hall, Mrs, notice of her poetry, iii. 182-184. Halleck, Fitz-Greene, notice of his poetry, iii. 152-154. Hamilton, Colonel, appointed secre tary of the treasury under Wash- INDEX. 373 ington, ii. 128. His financial plans, 130-133. His death, 171 . Harrison, General, president, iii. 362, 363. Harvey, John, governor of Virginia, i. 125. Henry, Patrick, his speech in the Virginian assembly against the Stamp-Act, i. 341. Account of his oratory, iii. 112-117. Hillhouse, James A., notice of his poetry, iii. 168, 169. Historians, iii. 197, 198. History — from the commencement of the Revolution to the Declara tion of Independence, i. 334-400. Authorities consulted, 334-336. Secret discontents, 337. Plan of taxing America, — Stamp- Act, 339- 341. First Congress, 341, 342. Tumults in the colonies, 342-344. Marquis of Rockingham minister, 344. Concessions, 345. Tran quillity restored, 346. Charles Townshend, 347. New taxes im posed, ib. Fresh troubles, 347- 350. Non-importation agreement, 350. Lord North minister, 351. Repeal of taxes, 352. Movements in America, 353-355. Duty on Tea, 355. Violent proceedings at Boston, 356, 357- Indignation of ministers, 357. Port closed, 357- 359. Alteration of the charters, &c., 359-361. Opposition by Burke, Chatham, and others, 361, 302. Extreme discontent in the colonies, 362-367. Meeting of general con gress 367- Its proceedings, 367, 368. Debates in Parliament, 368- 370. Coercive measures, 370, 371. Arming in Massachusetts, 373. Battle of Lexington, 374, 375. Warlike operations, 3/5, 376. Addresses by Congress, 3/7. Washington commander-in-chief, 378. Battle of Bunker's Hill, 380, 381. Hostile movements in Vir ginia and the other colonies, 381- 383. State of Washington's army, 384. Proceedings in Parliament, 385-388. Treaties with German princes, 389. American expedition into Canada, 390, 391. Difficulties of Washington, 391-393. Gage succeeded by Howe, 393. Boston evacuated, 395. Washington marches to New York, 396. Ex pedition against Charleston, 396- 398. Declaration of Independence, 398-400. History — to thealliance with France, ii. 9-48. General causes of the rupture,— state of parties, 9-14. Washington's preparations, 14-16. Landing of Howe, 16. Battle of Brooklyn, 17, 18. British enter New York, 19. Retreat of the Americans, 22. Howe occupies New Jersey, 22-24. Advantages gained by Washington, 24, 25. Charges against the British army unfounded, 26-29. Plans of new- campaign, 29, 30. Movements of Howe, 30. His landing in the Chesapeake, 31. Battle of Brandy- wine, 31, 32. British in Phila delphia, 32. Battle of German- town, 33. Washington at Valley- forge, 34. Views and prospects of the British commander, 34, 35. Expedition of Hurgoyne, 35. First success, 36. Difficulties, 37. Battle of Bennington, &c., 38. Clinton's expedition from New York, 40. Burgoyne's surrender, 40, 41. Effects of the intelligence in Eng land, 41-43. Speech of Lord Chatham, 43, 44. Negotiations of America with France, 44. Aid received from her, 45. Treaty of alliance, 47, 48. History — to the peace in 1783, ii. 49- 113. War between Britain and France, 49, 50. Distresses of Washington, 50, 51. British com missioners to treat for peace, 51. Their reception, 52, 53. Evacua tion of Philadelphia, 53. Repulse of the Americans, 54. French naval operations, 54, 55. Ad vantages gained by the British, 55. Indian war in the west, 56. Plans of campaign, 57. Distress of the Americans, 58-60. Spain joins their cause, 60. Naval and mili tary operations, 61-64. Defeat of Lincoln-, 65. Siege of Savannah raised, 66, 67. Siege of Charles ton — surrender, 67, 68. British, overrun South Carolina, 69. De feat of Gates and death of Fergu son, 70-74. Cornwallis retreats, 74. Greene succeeds Gates, 75. Battle of Cowpens, 76. Retreat of the Americans, 77, 78. They return, 78. Battle of Guildford, 79, 80. Cornwallis retires to Wilmington, 80. Greene invades South Carolina, 81. Cornwallis marches into Virginia, ib. Battle of Camden, 82. Successes of the American parties, 83. Repulsed at Ninety-six, 84. Rawdon falls back, ib. Battle of Eutaw, 85. Causes of British failure, 86, 87. Operations near New York, 87-89. Expedition sent from France, 89, 374 INDEX. 90. Adventures of Arnold, 90-92. Treacherous desertion, 93, 94. Death of Andr6, 94, 95. Financial difficulties of congress, 95, 96. Junction of French and American armies, 97. Successes of Corn- wallis in Virginia, 97, 98. Wash ington marches thither, 1 00. Naval operations in the Chesapeake, ib. Plans of Clinton and Cornwallis, 101, 102. The latter besieged in York, 102, 103. Surrenders, 104. Clinton's attempts to relieve him, 104, 105. War with Holland, &c., 106. Change of the British min istry, 108. Ambassadors meet at Paris, 108-111. Discussions, 111. Treaty with America, 112. With France and Spain, 113. History — the new Constitution and proceedings under it, ii. 114-173. Exhaustion of the government, 114, 115. Troubles in the army, 115-117. Its dissolution, 117. Dis turbances throughout the Union, 118, 119. Meeting of deputies at Annapolis, 120. General meeting at Philadelphia, ib. Plan and deliberations on a newconstitution, 121,122. Finally sanctioned, 123. Washington president, 123-127. The cabinet, 128, 129. Financial plans, 130-133. Washington re- elected, 134. Disputes and war with the Indians, 135-142. Dis turbances in Pennsylvania, 142- 144. Negotiations with England, 144-146. With Spain, 146-148. Revolution in France, 148. Pro ceedings of Genet, her ambassador, 149-153. Treaty with Britain, 154, 155. Close of Washington's presidency, 158. Adams succeeds, 159. Mission to France of Monroe, ib. Of Pinkney, 160. Hostile preparations, 161-163. Accom modation, 164. Jefferson presi dent, 166. Purchase of Louisiana, 167-169. Expedition to Tripoli, 169-171. Daring enterprise of Burr, 171-173.— See Britain. History — Concluding sketch, iii. 346- 366. State after the war, 347. Transactions with the Barbary States, ib. Monroe president, 348. Cession of Florida by Spain, 348, 349. Question of slavery in Mis souri, 349. South American re publics acknowledged, 350. Tariff of 1824, ib. Adams president, ib. Tariff of 1828, 351. Jackson president , ib. Veto on the national bank, 352. North-west Indian war, 352, 353. Carolina resists the tariff, 353, 354. Measures against the bank, 355. Removal of the Indians— Seminole war, 355-358. Van Buren president, 359. Great financial embarrass ments, 359, 360. Civil war in Canada — disturbances on the fron tier, 360, 361. Boundary question, 361-364. Harrison president, 362. Tyler, 363. Disturbances in Rhode Island, 364, 365. Repudia tion, 365. Oregon question, 366. Hoffman, Charles Fenno, notice of his poetry, iii. 171-173. Howe, General, receives the com mand of the British forces in America, i. 393.— See History. Resigns the command, ii. 51. Hudson River, i. 23. Discovered by the navigator of that name, 281. Description of, iii. 297- Hudson, Henry, account of his voyages, i. 279-281. Hunter, Sir Robert, governor of New York, i. 293. Hutchinson, Mrs, her religious views, i. 210. Banishment from Massa chusetts, and death, 216. I. Illinois, topography of, iii. 316-322. Indiana, topography of, iii. 316-322. Indians, their contests with the early Spanish adventurers in Florida, i. 36-65. First intercourse with the English in Virginia, 81-88. Adventures of Captain Smith, 93- 105. Princess Pocahontas, 110-112. Dreadful massacre of the settlers, 119-121. War with the Maryland colonists, 147, 148. Contests with the New Engenders, 239-244. Ef forts for their conversion — Eliot, 244-247- Penn's treaty with them, 268. War with the Dutch settlers in New York, 284. With the English in Carolina, 305-307. Treaties with General Oglethorpe in Georgia, 312. Their employ ment by the British — murder of Miss Macrea, ii. 37. Contests with the United States, 56, 135- 142 ; iii. 352, 353. Their removal beyond the western frontier— Se minole war, 355-358. Iowa, topography of, iii. 316-322. Irving, Washington, notice of hia writings, iii. 196. J. Jackson, General, his defence of New Orleans, ii. 205-208. His presidency, iii. 351-359. INDEX. 375 James River, iii. 307- Jamestown, its foundation, i. 94. Jefferson, Mr, appointed foreign secretary under Washington, ii. 129. Elected president, 166. Re- elected, 171. Retires, 180. Johnson, William, his campaign against the French, i. 326, 327- Judiciary, its character and func tions, ii. 233-235. Kentucky,topographyof,iii.322-329. Kieft, Dutch governor of New Ne therlands, i. 284. Lane, Ralph, first governor of Vir ginia, i. 82. Laudonniere, Rene, founds a French settlement in Florida, i. 71- Mas sacre of the settlers by the Spa niards, 75. Leisler, Jacob, governor of New York, i. 290. His trial and exe cution, 291. Leon, Juan Ponce de, his early ad ventures, i. 32. Discovers Florida, 33. Unsuccessful attempt to plant a colony, ib. Lexington, battle of, i. 374, 375. Description of the town, iii. 328. Literature, iii. 98-200. Obstacles to its progress, 99-105. State before the Revolution, 105. Decline, 106. Gradual revival and progress, 106, 107. Orators, 108-130. Poets, 130-193. Romance and novel- writers, 193-195. Essayists, 195- 197. Historians, 197, 198. Bio graphers, 198, 199. Travellers, 199, 200. Statistics, 200. Locke, constitution for Carolina formed by, i. 300. Longfellow, H. W., notice of his poetry, iii. 160-162. Louisiana, purchase of, ii. 167-169. Topography of, iii. 322-329. Louisville, description of, iii. 328. Lovelace, Lord, governor of New York, i. 293. Lowell, description of, iii. 293. Lunt, George, notice of his poetry, iii. 169, 170. Lutherans, account of, iii. 87. M. Madison, Mr, president, ii. 180, 191. Maine, settlement of, i. 191 , 260-262. Topography, iii. 284-294. Manners and social life, iii. 9-51. Effects of colonial settlement, 10, 11. Religion, philanthropy, &c., 13, 14. National failings, 14-26. Good temper, 26. Strong liquors- temperance societies, 27-29. Equa lity, 29-31. Ladies, 31-35. Enter tainments, accommodations, &c., 35-39. Labouring class, 39-41. Differences throughout the Union, 41. NewEnglanders,42. Southern planters, 43. Emigrants to the west, 44-49. Society of Washing ton, 49, 50. Manufactures, ii. 291-296. Efforts to promote them, 292. Obstacles, .293. Female operatives, 294. Successful branches, 294, 295. Maryland, colonization of, i. 144-175. Patent by Charles I. to Lord Baltimore, 145. Roman Catholic colony founded, 148. Indian war, ib. Internal administration, 149- 157- Popular insurrection, 157. Assembly divided into two houses, 158. Influx of Protestants from Virginia, 159. Parliamentary com mission sent out, 162. Govern ment changed, 163, 164. Arbi trary proceedings of the Protes tants, 166. Civil war, 168-170. Lord Baltimore's government re stored, 172. Revolution transfers it to the crown, 175. Again con ferred on the family by George I. , ib. Topography of the state, iii. 304-311. Mason, John, settlements in New Hampshire and Maine formed bv, i. 260. Massachusetts, its colonization by the Puritans, i. 185-195. Consti tution and laws framed by them, 198-201. Religious dissensions, 202-216, 218-228. Effects of the Restoration, 228-234. Constitu tion subverted, 235. Changes at the English Revolution, 238. In dian wars, 239-243. Delusion re specting witchcraft, 247-252. Suc cessive governors, 252-255. Takes the lead in the Revolution, 373- 376. Topography, iii. 284-294. Mellen, Grenville, notice of his poetry, iii. 162, 163. Menendez, Pedro, employed by Philip II. to extirpate the'Hugue- not settlement in Florida, i. 73. Founds St Augustine, ib. Dread ful massacre perpetrated by him, 75. Retaliated by DeGourgues, 77. Methodists, account of, iii. 83, 84. INDEX. Michigan, topography of, iii. 316-322. Mines, ii. 284-291. Gold, 285, 286. Iron, 286, 287. Load, &c., 287, 288. Coal, 288, 290. Salt, &c., 290, 291. Mississippi river, i. 24, 26, 62 ; iii. 324, 325. Mississippi state, topography of, iii. 322-329. Missouri river, i. 26 ; iii. 324, 325. Jlissouri state, topography of, iii. 322-329. Question of slavery in ,349. Monroe, Mr, president, iii. 348-350. Montcalm, his successes against the British, i. 327, 328. Mormonites, account of, iii. 91. N. Narvaez, Pamphilo de, obtains com mand of an expedition to Florida, i. 35. Takes possession of the country, 36. Contests with the natives, 37, 38. Disastrous issue of the expedition, 39-46. Natchez, description of, iii. 328. Natural History, iii. 201-282. Ge ology, 201-223. Botany, 223-256. Zoology, 256-282. Navy, ii. 273. Neal, John, notice of his writings, iii. 163, 164. New England, settlement of, i. 176- 262. Company formed for its co lonization, 91, 176. Various ex peditions sent out, 177-180. Ar rival of the Brownists, 185-190. Other settlers, 191. Immigrations of the Puritans, 193-196. Con federation of the colonies, 216. Wars with the Indians, 239-244. Efforts for their conversion, 244- 247- Topography of this region, iii. 284-294. New Hampshire, settlement of, i. 191, 260-262. Topography, iii. 284-294. New Jersey, settlement of, i. 294-297. Territory granted to Lords Ber keley and Carteret, 295. Consti tution of the colony, ib. Sold to the Quakers, 296, 297. Becomes a royal colony, 297- Topography, iii. 2^4-304. New Orleans, unsuccessful attack on by the British, ii. 205-208. Trade of, 379, 380. Description of, iii. 327. New York, settlement of this state, i. 279-294. Discovery by Hudson, 280, 281. Settlements by the Dutch, 282, 283. By the Swedes, 283-285. Indian war, 284. Pro sperity of the colony, 285. Cap tured by the English, 287. lie- conquered, but again ceded, 288. Government under the Duke of York (James II.), 288, 289. Ef fects of the English revolution, 290. Successive governors, 291- 294. Topography, iii. 294-304. New York city, first called New Amsterdam, foundation of, i. 283. Trade of, ii. 376, 377. Description of, iii. 299-301. Newport, Captain, receives the na val command of Virginia Com pany's first expedition, i. 93. His subsequent career, 96-104. Nichols, Sir Robert, capture of New Amsterdam by, i. 287. Nicholson, Colonel, governor of Vir ginia, i. 142. North, Lord, his character, i. 351. Attempts to conciliate the colo nists, 352. Imposes a duty on tea, 355. Adopts coercive measures, 369-371, 388, 389. Conciliatory proposals, ii. 42, 43. — See History. His resignation, 108. Novel and romance writers, iii. 193-195. O. Oglethorpe, General, settlement of Georgia by, i. 311,312. Ohio River, i. 24 ; iii. 318. Ohio state, topography of, iii. 316- 322. Acquisition of, 333. Operatives, employment and wages of, iii. 344, 345. Orators, iii. 108-130. Oregon territory, question regarding the, iii. 366. Osborne, Sir Danvers, governor of New York, i. 294. Otis,noticeof his oratory.iii. 109-112. Ozark Mountains, description of, iii. 203. P. Peabody, Mr. notice of his poetry, iii. 165. Penn, William, his character, i. 263- 265. Procures a charter for Penn sylvania from Charles II., 266. Ef forts for its colonization, 267-277- His death, 277. Pennsylvania, settlement of, i. 263- 278. Liberal constitution framed by Penn, 266, 267- Large immigra tion of Quakers, 267- Treaty with the Indians, 268. Boundary dis putes with Lord Baltimore, 269, INDEX. 377 271. Internal dissensions, 271-273. Consequences of the English Re volution, 273, 274. Quakers lose their influence in the colony, 278. Topography, iii. 294-304. Penobscot, Bay of, visited by Wey- mouth, i. 90. Percival, James G., notice of his poetry, iii. 145-148. Philadelphia, its foundation, i. 269. Trade of, ii. 378. Description of, iii. 302, 303. Pierpont, John, notice of his poetry, iii. 156, 157. Pike, Albert, notice of his poetry, iii. 165-167. Pinkney, Edward C., notice of his poetry, iii. 176, 177- Piracy, its prevalence on the Ame rican coast at the beginning of the eighteenth century, i. 308, 309. Pitt, Mr.— See Chatham, Lord. Pittsburg, description of, iii. 304. Plymouth Company, its formation, i. 91, 92. Colonial expeditions to New England, 176-179. Obtain a new patent, 180. Subsequent transactions, 190, 191. Plymouth, New, its foundation, i. 1 87. Pocahontas, an Indian princess, her humane conduct, i. 99, 100. Mar ries Mr Rolfe, and visits England, 111. Her death, 112. Poets, iii. 130-193. Police, ii. 262-264. Popham, Captain, his voyage to New England, i. 177, 178. Port Royal, settlement attempted here by the French, i. 70. Potomac River, iii. 306, 307. Pownall, governor of Massachusetts, i. 254. Prentice, George D., notice of his poetry, iii. 165-167- Presbyterians, account of, iii. 85. Prescot, Mr, notice of his writings, ! iii. 198. President, his functions, &c., ii. | 227-233. His political influence, 241-244. Pring, Martin, account of his voy age, i. 90. Puritans, their rise in England, i. 182. Persecutions, 191, 192. A large number emigrate to New England, 193-196. Their character, 198. Gradual improvement in their character, 263. Settlement in Pennsylvania, 268-278. Present state of the body, iii. 87- Quebec, capture of by Wolfe, i. 329. R. Railways, ii. 326-335. In New Eng- Q. Quakers, their appearance in New England, i. 222. Their extrava gances, 224, 225. Severe pro ceedings against them, 226-228. VOL. III. land, 328, 329. New York, 329, 330. Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Maryland, 331,332. Virginia, Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, 332-334. Western states, 334, 335. Raleigh, Sir Walter, undertakes to found a colony in North America, i. 80. First expedition under Amadis and Barlow, 81. Second expedition under Sir Richard Grenville, 82. First settlement in Virginia, ib. Its failure, 85. New settlement under White, ib. Its fate, 88. Rappites, account of, iii. 90, 91. Rawdon, Lord. — See History. Religion, iii. 78-97. Its influence in the settlement of the colonies, 78, 79. Voluntary system, 79. Re spect for religion in New England, 80, 81. In the south, 81. De ficiency in the west, 81-83. Statis tics of the different sects, 83-91. Bible and missionary societies, &c., 91-95. Revivals and camp- meetings, 95, 96. General result, 96, 97. Representatives, house of, its consti tution, ii. 224, 225. Reptiles, iii. 276-279. Revolution , history of. — See History. Rhode Island, settlement of, i. 209, 257-260. General religious tolera tion adopted, 258. Topography, iii. 284-294. Recent disturbances in, 364, 365. Ribault, John, expedition sent put under him by Admiral Coligni, i. 70. Founds a settlement at Port Royal, ib. Its failure, 71- Super sedes Laudonniere in command of settlement in Florida, 73. Settlers massacred by the Spaniards, 75. Rice, introduction of into Carolina, i. 309. Richmond, description of, iii. 310, 311. \ Rivers of the United States, i. 22-29. Robinson, Dr, notice of his travels, iii. 200. Rockingham, Marquis of, his ad ministration, i. 334. Roman Catholics, account of, iii. 86, 87. 2A 378 INDEX. Romance and novel writers, iii. 193- 195. Salem, its foundation, i. 194. De scription of, iii. 293. Sands, Robert C., notice of his poetry, iii. 167, 168. Savannah, siege of, ii. 66, 67. De scription of, iii. 315. Seaports, ii. 376-380. Sedgwick, Miss, notice of her writings iii. 195. Serninole war, the, iii. 355-358. Senate, its constitution, ii. 223-227. Shaftesbury, Earl of, constitution for Carolina formed by, i. 3dO. Shakers, account of, iii. 89, 90. Shirley, governor of Massachusetts, i. 254. Shute, Colonel, governor of Massa chusetts, i. 253. Sigourney, Mrs, notice of her poetry, iii. 179, 180. Simms, William G , notice of his poetry, iii. 177, ]/«• Slavery, iii. 52-77- Its condition and extent, 52-54. Treatment of the negroes, 55-59. Inter) al slave- trade, 59-63. Modes of conveyance, 63, 64. Treatment in the new states, 64, 65. Situation of free people of colour, 65-67- Early abolition measures, 67, 68. Anti- slavery society, its efforts, 68-71. Opposition, 71-75. Prospects of the cause, 76, 77. Sloughter, Colonel, governor of New York, i. 291. Smith, Captain John, settles in Vir ginia, i. 93. Obtains the manage ment of the colony, 97- Is captured by the Indians, 98. His preserva tion, 99. Explores the Chesapeake, 101, 102. Returns to England, 107. His character, ib. Efforts to colo nize New England, 160-170. Sothel, Seth, governor of Carolina, i. 301-303. Soto, Fernando de, appointed ade- lantndo of Florida, i. 47. Attempts its conquest, 48. Travels into the interior of the continent, and con tests with the natives, 48-59. Marches westward, and crosses the Mississippi, 61, 62. Returns, 63. His death, ib. Fate of the ex pedition, 65. Spaniards, theirexpeditions to North America, i. 31-65. Discovery of Florida by Ponce tie Leon, 33. Other expeditions, 33-35. Nar- vaez attempts its conquest 35. Contests with the natives, 36-40. His fate, 40. Adventures of Alvaro, and journey overland to Mexico, 40-46. Expedition under Soto, 46-48. Various con flicts, 48-55. Enters Georgia, 55. Reaches the gold country of Caro lina, 56. Returns to the coast, 58. Battle of Mauvila, 59, 60. Travels westward and crosses the Mississippi, 61-63. Return and death , 63. Issue of the expedition , 64, 65. Cancello, 65. Spaniards, invasion of Carolina by the, 303. Of Georgia, 314. Alliance with the Americans and rupture with Britain, ii. 60.— See History. Sprague, Charles, notice of his poetry, iii. 150-152. St Louis, description of, iii. 329. Stamp-Act, the, i. 339-341. Re pealed, 345. Statistics, works'on, iii. 200. Steam-navigation, ii. 3(12-313. Its rise— Fitch, Stevens, Fulton, 302- 304. Extension over the west,. 305, 306. Present extent, 308. Accidents, &c., 3(19-313. Stephens, Mr, notice of his travels, iii. 200. Stone, Captain, governor of Mary land, i. 160-170. Street, Alfred B., notice of his poetry, iii. 173, 174. Stuyvesant, Dutch governor of New Netherlands, i. 284-287- Susquehanna river, iii. 297- Swedes, settlements formed by them in New York, i. 283-285. T. "arleton, Colonel, exploits of, ii. 72-76.— See History. Temperance societies, account of, iii. 27-29. Tennessee, topography of, iii. 322-329. Tobacco, first cultivated in Virginia. 114. Tomochichi, chief of the Creek ulians, i. 312. Visits Britain, ib. Topographical survey, iii. 283-329. New England states, 284-2.94. New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, 294-304. Virginia, Mary land, Columbia, Delaware, 304- 311. Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Florida, 311-316. Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, &c., 316-322. Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Missouri, Arkansas, 322-329. INDEX. 379 Townshencl, Charles, his plan of taxing America, i. 347. Travellers, iii. 199, 200. Tripoli, Americanexpeditionagainst, ii. 169-171. Tyler, Mr, president, iii. 363-366. TT. Unitarians, account of, iii. 87, 88. Universalists, account of, iii. 88. Van Buren, Mr, president, iii. 359' 362. Vane, Henry, governor of Massa chusetts, i. 211. Verazzano, Giovanni, conducts a French expedition to North Ame rica, i. 66. Sails along the coast, 66-68. Returns to France, 68. His mysterious fate, 69. Vermont, topography of, iii. 284-294. Virginia, colonization of, i. 79-143. Expeditions sent out by Raleigh, 80-88. First permanent settlement at Jamestown, 94. Its early diffi culties and progress, 95-1 12. Cul ture of tob.icco introduced, 114. Representative constitution fram ed, 117. Colony largely reinforced, 119. Dreadful massacre by the Indians, 120. State and progress of the colony, 127-130. Govern ment under the Long Parliament, 130-13-i. After the restoration, 134. Bacon's rebellion, 135-138. Various governors, 139-143. Topo graphy, iii. 304-311. Virginia Company, its formation, i. 91, 92. Founds a settlement at Jamestown, 94. Obtains a new charter, and sends out re^rce- ments, 106-119. Charter forfeited, 123. Washington, George, commands an expedition to the French posts in the west, i. 320. His first cam paign, 321, 32-2. Acts as aide-de camp to Bracldock, 324-326. Ap pointed commander of the conti nental forces, 3/8.— See History. Resigns his commission, ii. 118. Is elected first president of the republic, 123-127- Re-elected, 134. His retirement, 158. His death, 164, 165. Washington (city), capture of by the British, ii. 201. Society of, iii. 49, 50. Description of, iii. 308, 309. Washington, Mount, description of, iii. 288. Webster, Mr, notice of his oratory, iii. 124-127- Welby, Amelia B., notice of her poetry, iii. 184, 185. Wesley, John and Charles, accept livings in Georgia, i. 313. Leave the colony, ib. Weymouth, George, account of his voyage, i. 90, 91. Wheeling, description of, iii. 311. White, John, appointed governor of Virginia by Raleigh, i. 85. His culpable conduct, 88. Whitetield, his visit to Georgia, i. 313. Whittier, John G., notice of his poetry, iii. 171. Wilcox, Charles, notice of his poetry, iii. 158-160. Williams, Roger, his religious views. i. 205-208. Founds the colony of Rhode Island, 209, 217, 257-260. Willis, N. P., notice of his poetry, iii. 157, 158. Wilmington (Delaware), description of, iii. 311. Winthrop, Mr, governor of Massa chusetts, i. 212-217. Wisconsin, topography of, iii. 316- 322. Witchcraft, delusions respecting, in Massachusetts, i. 247-252. Y. York, Duke of, territory granted to him by Charles II., i. 287- Ob tains possession of and gives name to New York, 288. Z, Zoology, iii. 256-282. Birds, 257-276. Reptiles, 2/6-279. Fishes, 279- 282. THE END. Printed by Oliver and Boyd, Tweeddale Court, High Street, Edinburgh. LIBRARY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. THIS BOOK IS DUE BEFORE CLOSING TIME ON LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW LIBRARY USE REC'D General Library University of California Berkeley YB 3717!